spudulike

Sounds like it may be a dodgy crank seal, what age is the saw and what sort of use has it had - and I don't mean "I have used it for cutting wood":001_rolleyes: If the idle fluctuated with the saw just sitting on the deck then I would say typical carb problems but the moving thing makes me think crank seal or fuel pipe/impulse line related. Try moving it from side to side so the clutch cover and recoil cover are parallel with the deck and see if that does anything but DONT hold the saw with the top handle. Then try moving the top handle about with it sitting normally on the ground. Let me know if one, the other or both make the saw play up.

Guess it will save weight

IMO, those holes will drop your compression off from leakage past the rings! Think those drugs are a bit heavy:lol:

Have you read Swallows and Amazons - all that messin about on water:lol: Nice job and clear up - that trailer even had a straight axle:blushing::lol:

Get a vid up once you are back in the land of the living, make sure you do bevel those edges with a diamond file and I smooth them with 400grit paper so I have a nice bevel that will not give trouble in time. If the 1.2mm is too small, when you rev the engine (assuming it runs), you will get a blowback of fuel/air vapour blowing back on to the air filter which may cause issues but hopefully not. Good luck with the project - make sure you open the exhaust right up or the mods you have done will just make the saw run very rich and boggy:thumbdown: I drill a number of large holes in the baffle plate and insert a decent size outlet in to the front of the muffler - it works for me:thumbup:

Yes, but the point is where is the ring end on this two ring piston - guess you could re-site the location pin and using one ring was an option I had thought of.....gotta go, steak is on the BBQ:thumbup:

Bingo - think we have hit the same issue - the inlet port on a 372XP is pretty wide as it is - around 1.5mm off each side is all I can manage to get a good seal!

Your gonna hate me for asking:blushing: the bottom of the exhaust port should be level with the piston crown so neither the piston or port impede the flow.....yours looks a little lowered:confused1:

Humour me here - that piston...is supplied with the kit?? It has two rings?? and I guess you have windowed the sides? The standard SINGLE piston ring ends come nowhere near the inlet port or upper transfers....have you checked to make sure that the ring ends don't come anywhere near the openings (Inlet or uppers) - at least within 2mm!! If they do then the rings will snag - just one of the things you need to watch out for. The other...sorry to be a pisser on the fireworks....... does the inlet port get covered by the width of the piston skirt, if it doesn't, you will get lots of blowback through the carb when the piston lowers:thumbdown: The last thing - how much did you raise the exhaust port by - I hope it wasn't a .....grind until I am bored affair:blushing: Oh - BEVEL the port edges - sharp port edges are your enemy - use a curved diamond rifler file - ignore the warning at your peril!

Nice bit of porting on Wyks pic, would stick to the standard piston, the factory squish allows the base gasket to be dropped or you can machine a pop up to increase the compression if you have or know someone with a lathe

Sounds about right - also sometimes the mounting bracket fractures and stops the switch working.

Got a MS441 in for various faults, top rear handle cover damaged, throttle lock not working, worn rim drive, bolt missing on top AV mount, thread gone and bolt missing from the exhaust, decomp valve bent etc The owner wants a muffler mod so have done this and got the parts on order. Also got a very clean Husqvarna 350 in, the idle is up and down and starting an issue when hot. Will do the usual and am thinking it is just the L screw being a little lean but will see very soon.

You should try a 15" bar on them, they will pull an 18" but it will be a bit pedestrian:thumbdown: The pitch should be 0.325" but make sure the sprocket is a 0.325" sprocket and a 1.3mm or 1.5mm gauge will be OK but the 1.3mm will cut faster being narrower Kerf. The saws are good old school Huskys and will do your logging for the next 20 years, nothing flash but not too shabby as well. Far better than some of the modern light saws out there.

The piston looks fine from the image, there are no usual signs of seizure - I did have one saw that seized very slightly just to one side of the exhaust port but it is rare. The piston or ring may be worn but from that image and assuming the piston isn't exceptionally high hours, it should pull 150psi on a compression test. If you do pull the cylinder off then it will be worth getting rid of that carbon around the exhasut port but isn't critical.

Here comes the technical bit.... when you bang the weight out, if you just do and over head lob, you literally just sling the weight out, greater distance is achieved by throwing the weight backward and away from you and then whanging the rod forward that compresses the rod and allows for greater distance. We are getting on to pendulum casting here and that is how you achieve distance - I swing the weight round in a circle and as it is coming down to the bottom of the swing, lunge it upwards and this compresses the rod and allows you to double your casting distances. Distance is less important on beaches like Chesil and Dungeness but more important on shallow drop beaches - autumn onwards is when the codling, Whiting and Cod start coming in but Mackerel can be picked up on feathers on clear still days this time of year. Gotta say that Abu reels are works of art - durall and anodised end cans - beautiful:thumbup:

On newer saws, the trigger unit and sometimes a retard/advance unit is built in to the coil itself, basically it takes the HT generated by the coil and unleashes it to create a spark at the correct time in regards to the position of the piston - around 20 degrees before TDC! Older saws and strimmers etc have a seperate little "Can" module that looks after this - your 011 is one of these saws!

Should be pretty simple, make sure the throttle snaps shut on the idle adjuster screw, if it doesn't then this can cause issues.

Try with the L at 1 + 1/4 turns and the H on 2 turns, I struggled to find any info but the strimmer does rev out to 10,800 so setting the H setting will be easy with this info. As far as the L screw goes, if it doesn't start on th eabove setting, try undoing the screw in half turns until it fires. When it is going and ideling, turn the L screw in until the engine races and on the point of highest speed, turn out the L screw between 1/8 and 1/4 turns until the revs die and the engine idles and revs up quickly from idle. Good luck!

Got a couple of Daiwa 13' rods and a couple of Abu Multipliers, the best one I have is the purple ended one CT Elite - I would advise casting over grass until you have a method that works well for you. I was pretty pissed when I measured my first attempts - 60 yards at full belt but cot up to 140-150yards consistantly with practice. Seen lots of big fellas bust a gut and achieving 80 yards and a quick sling and I pop it out 130 - 150 yards - kinda makes them look a little light weight but thats life. Practice makes perfect. If you are feathering then use a fixed spool set up and 4oz weights, but if you are using typical beach casting rigs then the multiplier is the favoured weapon - if you havent used one before then beware, start with the brakes wound on a bit and then take them off bit by bit, a real big learning curve but worth it in the end - the Abu mag elite is a good reel - easy to flip the magnetic brake up and down! The fixed spool set up is perhaps easier to use for the novice but seems much bulkier when compared to the small multipliers. I use rubber inner tube on the thumb to brake the spool - otherwise it burns:thumbdown: Clipped down rigs are also good and stop the bait exploding off the rig when casting. Make sure you learn how to join the shock lead to the normal line and be safe, those 6oz weights go off with a bit of velocity when walloped out. Top marks are dungeness and Chesil Beach - due to the sever drop of the beach! Not been for a while now but a good day out!

"Seal all" is what I use on fuel based problems, it is resistant to fuel and works pretty well!

It's a brewery

One piece of advice Rich, clean the carbon off the piston crown and squish band when you measure the squish, I have always got 0.60 - 0.65 squish on modified MS200s - 0.35 is outside of the accepted level of squish:thumbdown:

To get the full gains it is all about tackling each area, I recently did a 395xp and the owner didn't want it too loud so I backed off opening the muffler up a lot so the result was boggy and was a different beast once I drilled the baffle out! You really need to see what is left by the manufacturer and do what you can! The results on what gives the best results depends which part is restricting the flow the most!

Well, if you take any more than 0.1mm off, you will need to cut a new squish band or do a pop up piston:001_rolleyes:

How much are you going to take off the bottom Rich, very interested in how much you think you can get away with!