spudulike

Well that means it is a blocked gauze filter, a stuck needle valve or more likely, the metering arm needs lifting a tad. It is possible the diaphragm is damaged but the gauze filter or metering arm height are the most likely causes. Note that the metering arm will still need adjusting when fitting a new one.

What cylinder and piston did you use? If it is OEM you can discount lack of compression. On compression - if you pull the piston up to top dead centre and pull it over slowly, you should feel a good amount of sponginess on the pull start - it should be almost like pulling it over with soft rubber in the cylinder - the sort of feelinng you get when pushing on a cycle tyre pump with your thumb on the end of it. If you don't get this then it is likely something is wrong with the fit. Try to measure the compression with a Gunson Hi Gauge, that is what I use as some can read low if made for larger engines!

Sounds like a complete lack of power to me. I would do a compression test. I once had an 024 Stihl that could barely turn the chain round - bad compression and wear on the cylinder due to pulling crap through the air filter. It won't be the clutch, reckon you have very low compression and the saw is just not making enough power to cut wood or the carb is just not working correctly. A worn clutch would make the engine revs soar in the cut and the chain stop. It sounds like the saw revs are just dropping off.

Have you got a compression reading yet, if you havent got a gauge, get the saw with bar, hold it by the starter and then allow it to drop and measure the time the cord goes to full extansion - perhaps someone else with the same model will do likewise but very generally - over 10 secs is good. Take another look at the piston through the exhaust port - you often get a little marking but the ring should have no visible lines on it and the piston skirt only light scratches or clean. It may still be the carb, these seem to be a bit of a bugger on these saws and possibly a longer boil in the US cleaner. You could pre treat the carb by removing the H&L screws and put some carb cleaner down the holes. Make sure you strip the carb before doing this. Remove the gauze filter - quite often these can get blocked up by old fuel - recently had the same MS200T in for this type of symptom - even my cleaner and carb cleaner hadn't shifted a haze of resin from the gause filter - try it - sounds very similar! The kill switch - just check the leaf spring is earthed with a multi meter and then take the recoil cover off and check the kill wire is on the coil and meter between the coil connection and the black wire. If OK, check the resistance of the switch when made, if it is over an Ohm then clean the contacts and re-check. Simple:001_rolleyes:

And don't I know THAT feeling:lol:

My thoughts are either: - 1) Quick strip down and pressure/vac test or 2) Give the carb a GOOD seing to and check two components that often play up! Probably both as it will pull up the vast majority of issues that can cause these faults. Cost wise - I don't usually do this but reckon £50 as a favour and to get the saw back in service. And.........I don't need the work - £600 is a stupid amount of money and hope the repair shops are suitably embarrased:blushing: Throwing spares at machines is damn expensive and shows lack of abillity, identifying the faulty component is what a good tech will do!

Think you better ask your Grand-children Barrie - you feeling old

Joking aside, they are quite correct. Facebok, twitter, forums and Youtube are all potentially free ways of marketing in a day where a mainstream magazine advert can cost £1500 and get totally ignored. I just don't go on Twitter or Facebook as I have no need to see what my friends are having for dinner or what their view on Corrie is:001_rolleyes: Good luck with the exercise, hope it works out for you!

"Yout" is what modern man call "Youth" innit:lol:

If I was on Facebook, I would like it...whatever that is, but have no inclination to do so......hope it brings in some work/free marketing for you Barrie - down with the yout now:thumbup:

I did offer but no joy:001_huh:

Just trying to help - it is a simple circuit that just connects the coil to earth to halt the spark - hope you get the thing sorted......before it ends up in the bin:001_rolleyes:

No worries bud, life is too short, hope you get sorted - customers....the job would be nice without em:lol:

Forget it, just read the post again - a little ambiguous:lol:

If you can get hold of free wood then they are brilliant and very efficient, if you are having to pay for your logs then not so good:thumbdown:

Well you are pretty close to me (circa 25 miles), if you get stuck then PM me and we can sort something out and it WONT be another £600:lol: Even if your mates saw is not running well, hopefully his issues may be different from yours and you can see if it changes your saws running characteristics! From what you have done, it sounds carb related to me.

The oval aluminium one!

I'll leave Rich to his flower arranging and tapestry, it really is more him:001_tt2: Be quite funny having an all out punch up with only handbags allowed - be a good one for Youtube - what do you reckon Rich? No bricks allowed, don't want to mess up your youthful good looks:001_tongue:

Yes, he means a welch plug!

I need a photo of the choke end of the carb to tell, your symptoms sound a bit accelerator pump related as it is effecting the idle and high speed. Other carb issues usually mess up just the idle or high speed running.

If you have a multimeter, check the leaf spring is earthed - you did bolt the wire back to the engine when you rebuilt it....didn't you:blushing:

On the not turning off issue - make sure the bit of brass on the end of the black wire is contacting the stainless leaf spring on the on/off/choke lever. Sounds like you are close to fixing it 100%.......well done:thumbup:

Been porting again, finished a Husqvarna 350 - nice pick up now and sounds a bit more urgent - be nice to see it against an 026 Stihl wouldn't it Rich:thumbup: Did a couple of muffler mods on a brace of 372XPs and set about porting them today - you can see what effect the modifications have to the lower transfers when the cylinder is put on a crankcase side - this is a Jonsered 2165 but same construction! The lowers are blended and raised in to the crankcase cut out creating less hinderance on the flow. All the ports were widened and re-profiled, rear uppers reshaped to improve scavanging and the base gasket dropped out to up compression.

Too far for me, think Eddy is close to you, if you get stuck he may be able to help you.