spudulike

Well, did you pull:lol:

Yes, she will if she drops a big one and gets acid up her crack:blushing:

My thinking is the original owner seized it and fitted a new piston without cleaning the transfer off the bore!

Alkali can be caustic soda otherwise known as Sodium Hydroxide, Acid is typically Hydrochloric Acid or Muriatic Acid to give it its traditional name. You need to lay the cylinder flat to the bench and apply the chemical with a cotton bud - the aluminium should fizz when the mix is applied - I usually pre treat it by degreasing and abrading it lightly first. Wear gloves and eye protection and clean the cylinder well after using it. If the aluminium doesn't fizz, you need a more concentrated solution. The cleaned area will need the residue abraded off and make sure that you can't feel any marking with your finger otherwise the ring will be damaged very fast. There are lots of examples of me doing this on "Whats on my bench", the success rate is over 90% and have even had some good success with some borderline cylinders. Just don't get hung up on rubbing small scores out - the abrasive paper should be used in swiping motions around the bore and not up and down, especially in the compression area above the exhaust port!

The decomp will unscrew using a long reach socket, just give the bar wrench a tap with a mallet. The clutch nut is part of the clutch - in and out movement is OK as long as the thing hasn't got excessive wobble on it indicating a worn bearing. Go by the serial number, the side cover has probably been taken out at some stage and damaged then replaced with the same part off a different saw. It may be the leaking decomp that has taken the piston out!

Yes and no, waiting on pistons for two saws and a brush cutter and doing a couple of modded mufflers for two 372XPs that need porting. Got a MS660 and two MS200Ts threatening, a Piaggio scooter that won't start, a load of other kit promised. What about you - getting in to the logging season now:thumbup:

Probably not on this Chinese poop, all other mainstream manufacturers - yes!

No, but is that a tang adjuster on your bench:blushing::lol: Sorry Barrie - still mates I hope, here's me thinking "tang" was something to do with Chefs knives but what do I know! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WvC6xqzZc0]AHA Touchy - YouTube[/ame]

MMmm Nice:lol: I saw a Chinese saw once where the bar slot had opened up to around twice its normal width and the chain sat at a 45 degree angle! Made out of silver cheese:thumbdown: You will really need to compare the bar mount to established mounts from Husqvarna and Stihl to see if either will fit and explore others if it doesn't. The usual limiting factors are the diameter of the bar studs, the tensioner adjuster position and the oil hole position. Logic tells me that they probably copied Ryobi, McCulloch or one of the other low cost saw manufacturers design. You could put an image of the bar mount up and all the relevant dims so we can see what might work - and we would also need the pitch of chain - 3/8 LP, 3/8 full profile or 0.325"being the most common.

Well you did well getting it apart without any help - taking the bar stud out usually separates the men from the boys! The piston looks like it may have been changed already and the aluminium transfer left on the cylinder....anyway, it is FUBARed. You will need to ensure ALL aluminium transfer is removed from the bore, some use acid, some use alkali - the choice is yours. You should get a good fizzing going on when your concoction is put on to the bad area. Once the cylinder has stopped fizzing, try going over the area with 400 grit paper and then try the gloop again and when you get no more fizzing, the bore needs to be finally cleaned with 180 grit then finally 400 grit. Make sure the exhaust bevels are smooth and the bore is 100% smooth, small scores or imperfections are OK and then fit a new piston - choose Meteor, Episan or Golf and in that order. Good luck - at least you are learning something! You will really need to know the reason the saw failed - fitting new crank seals is easy and is also worth doing now you have gone this far as any air leak will kill the engine again. Hopefully it failed on old fuel but make sure the H screw is set rich before you start it up and tune it.

A what:confused1:

Think you and Barrie should be on stage! It would be good to heckle:thumbup:

Who's restricted to saws:001_rolleyes:I have fixed everything from saws to 200 year old longcase clocks, biggest thing I have fixed was probably a 60' long industrial printer I worked on and repaired....many times! You know what I mean you reach an age where you have had thumbs in many pies - I do a few mowers and TBH, if you can understand and fix one mechanical item, it is pretty certain you will be able to fix another - whatever it is!

Ah, lawnmowers, don't do many of them, guess you could build the worlds slowest chainsaw with a B&S engine:lol:

No - Constipation:lol:

You have just made some old tool to piss us off because we can't work out what they are for!

About the same as having the clutch come off when firing a saw up without the clutch cover being on I should think:blushing:

Semi COLON

Ah, making sense now, you aren't slagging of Stihl are you Rich- reckon you have been cloned or something:lol:

Give us a clue to which saw Rich or is this a general request:confused1: From experience, the needle bearing is usually the same but TBH usually use rim drives on anything 50cc + and pro in design. I am guessing also that you do mean spur and rim drive clutch drum.......you been on the sauce again or been sniffing the carb cleaner - should avoid that:001_rolleyes:

The Greek fella "Leo" and MAx from Latvia off ebay are both good traders, had loads of pistons off Leo, best delivery 4 days from Greece, no complaints. You will need to make sure the bore is clean before getting the piston. The Chinese kits may give you a cheap option but rings can be fragile, circlips that can pop out and a piston to bore size that can be at best, iffy. The choice is yours but I always try to salvage the original cylinder. They don't cost 8 times the price of the Chinese ones for no reason:001_rolleyes:

Think you are spot on with that one! I think the only time some use a colon is to do a smiley:-) As for capital letters for names, the use of too & to, their & there and paragraphs - what do they teach in schools today:001_rolleyes: From an old fart:thumbup:

Sounds a bit extreme - I would try resetting the flywheel to coil gap, metering out the HT lead to plug connector, taking off the kill wire and trying a new plug before splurging on a new coil:thumbup:

My personal method would to be to clean the bore and if it isn't bad, would fit a new piston, preferably a Meteor one! The Chinese quality can be hit or miss