spudulike

Local guy with a penchant for throwing his equipment out of trees brought his 372XP round - rear AV mount was badly cracked, supporting areas were broken and the tie bar across the top of the flywheel was also busted. Took the flywheel off, cut a strip of steel to size and then bent and modeled it to fit around the area and wrap in to the flywheel surrounding casting. JB weld behind it and some self tappers through it, steel to the inside of the area an more JB weld saw a pretty strong repair and saved him having to have the complete saw rebuilt. I even managed to pin and JB weld the tie bar! I also helicoiled some of the holes, put an insert in to the chain brake habdle pivot and the job is a good one!

What Ray said, the cylinder has transfer, inlet and exhaust ports so re sleeving can't be done - its construction is a bored aluminium cylinder with a thin nikasil plating that is extremely hard. First thing to do is to remove the aluminium transfer from the bore and then inspect for bad scores, especially above the exhaust port as this is where the engine makes compression. Don't be put off if t looks a little bad as one MS260 I had looked bad to me and made 190psi and has spent 6 months in the field, hard use still running well. The OEM cylinder will be made far better than a Chinese aftermarket one - if you can salvage the cylinder - I have salvaged 95% I have had in, then you may have to fit the OEM piston but it will bring the cost down significantly! Personally I always vac and pressure check an engine after doing this work and re tach the carb but that is my choice and protects the owner from having the same issue almost immediately.

Thats the one, lovely job and smells great as long as you aren't hungry:blushing:

That will be the custom heat shield on the 346:thumbup:

I have to say that generally, Huskys are a joy to port, their closed Window pistons allow large potential for port widening and once done, they sort of.....rip:thumbup: The MS200 is a pretty simple mod, one customer broke his wrist skiing and I had to fit the sprung starter handle as it was making 190psi:blushing: All good stuff and always a pleasure to work on Andys and Daves machines:thumbup:

Not as an every day saw, if you want a project and have a collectors item then give it a go! Once running well, hopefully it will stay that way!

Google Mike Acres site, a wealth of information on there!

Just adjust the H screw to maintain correct max revs!

So they are screw in - need to get a good grip on it and unscrew! I usually put the new one in with stud lock loctite!

And you can use it to stir your tea

Dump any old fuel in it, it would benefit from checking the fuel lines - a new carb kit may be a worthwhile investment and check the fuel filter is OK. The chain oil may have gone gloopy so flushing out the tank with fuel would be a good move. There are a few on here hat run these, primarily for milling and that is where it's value is. On ebay - £250 - £400 depending on condition. 111cc engine size!

Firstly, it is very possible to get a perfect seal on the pressure test and get the vacuum leaking. This often makes the saw hang on to revs when the throttle is let off. The clutch side seal is generally the one that goes and I usually pack a bit of grease aroiund it to see if it slows down the vacuum leak - it should have an effect. Thick oil will also have a similar effect and will be sucked in!

Find the other end of the stud - this can be in a fuel tank, by the side of the muffler etc. If they are push in, the ends will be square or threaded if they are screw in. You may be able to get two nuts on the end of the remaining stud end, stilsons, plumbers grips/mole grips may do it or clean the nut and stud and use loctite 270 on it and let it go off - then try to unscrew it. The easyout stud remover will also shift it but don't snap it in the hole - also possible too file two flats and use a spanner on it:thumbup:

It wasn't when I was last down there - bloody rained all week and had issues with my waterworks - hoping the next stay is better. It is true what you say though, summer work in drought on some of the bracken moors may well be an issue! I once made my grass smoulder with an old Husky L65 - the exhaust exit blows the hot gasses straight on the ground:blushing:

As others have said, it is for arrid countries where there is a fear that hot carbon will exit the muffler and ignite bracken/grass etc. Over time, the gauze can get blocked with carbon so many people remove the gauze with no ill effect due to our wet country. It will restrict the flow of gasses slightly and I personally, remove the things!

Even my wife said it looked pretty slow, guess she is used to the ported saws I run and tune:thumbup:

Can't say I have needed anything like that in my dealings with the saw. Possibly for pulling the clutch springs off, can't see it would help with the limit cap on the H screw which is always a sod. Pushing off the filler cap connectors possibly:confused1: It looks like a carving chisel! Bugger - too late - I use a length of string and make sure the brake is off!

The tech will be able to tell whether it is the plating that has worn, whether the saw has ingested chip/dust or nipped up through leanrunning/bad fuel/air leak etc. 18 months is nothing, I would be concerned about the saw after the repair if a route cause isn't found! What colour was the plug?

I would say that as long as the cylinder and crank bearings are sound, the saw should give good life after a bit of a refurb. Crank seals can be replaced, if worn the saw can have uneven idle and can hang on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut. The biggest issue is generally the carb, there are a number off issues that can happen and the accelerator pump is just one of them. Do the mod and it effectively turns the carb back to one from an 020T - not quite the case as the design internally is slightly different but very similar. There are other parts I check and sort out if faulty and generally resolve the common pickup, idle and max revs issues. If the saw is low on compression then a new piston will bring the saw back to life - the wear is normally on the piston and the cylinder is generally OK unless the thing has seized or ingested woodchip. I have returned many of these saws back from the brink of death and if they still play up after my work, all I do is dig in harder and do the last stage of work free of charge as it is generally carb related - it happens but not too often! A new 020T carb may be the way to go - never fitted a new carb in my time but is easier for the novice! If the crank bearings are shot, they can be replaced as long as the crank journals are not worn! That's my take on this - I have had some right old wrecks in my time - even bags of bits and all ended up running! PS - Rich is right about the oil leak and the leaking crank seal symptoms. Smokey running is generally down to an overly rich mix!

It depends on the squish it already has, you need at least 0.5mm otherwise due wear and tear may result in the piston belting the squish band. The sealer needs to withstand 200 degrees plus. Blue Hylomar is fine as are many others, just look at the spec.

Thanks Barrie, my wife always says I am a different man when working in the man cave

Nice one Andy:thumbup1:

No worries:lol:

Nah, it really isn't my style, I just offer a service that I would hope others would offer me if I needed it - I really don't go asking for praise, just like to know what I do is appreciated and the customers is happy - pretty simple really. It is good to know what I do makes a real difference and the help and advice I & others offer helps Arbtalk members in their jobs.

The one I did had the ignition tweak and I enlarged the already modded muffler but TBH, the muffler mod gave the biggest difference. They are a nice little saw and can see that in their modded state cutting 6-8" timber is very possible rather than 4" as standard. I think I put the vids up on "Whats on my bench" And lads - this is getting a bit embarassing - glad er indoors can't see it