spudulike

See you guys in hospital....do you like lucozade or grapes

It is not that common that a needle valve leaks and only said this as you said the saw was exiting neat fuel from the exhaust. I pressure check carbs but you can just buy a carb kit and fit a new needle but it is a bit of a job! A leaking welch plug can cause issues, this is the oval aluminium plug next to the metering arm under the diaphragm, if the seal around it is red, leave it alone, if it is clear or has none, you could degrease it and then work a little superglue around the edge of it with a sharp object but don't leave too much glue as the petrol will degrade it. There is a way of checking it is sealing but I developed it for myself for my own use:sneaky2: A faulty piston pump is the most common issue, it is a bitch to replace and would recommend no amateur gives it a go. There is a work around where the welch plug on the back of the carb is removed and the holes behind it sealed but this is also not without risks of filling the check valve with glue or having the sealant degrade to the point it leaks.

You may be able to make a saddle to fit over the lower roof that would fit over the top ridge and give a flat platform to put a ladder on. You would need to get the angle right and have something like double carpet to spread the load on the tiles. I guess it would be like an upside down yacht trailer with a plinth on it.You could use stud partitioning timber for cheapness and a bit of OSB or an old door on top with carpet suface for grip for the ladder. It should work and be safe - I used a door with a wedge and carpet to fit a big old double glazed window on my porch roof once.

Mmmm, it does doesn't it:001_rolleyes: It is rare that one of these carbs beats me and have a high rate of success with them:thumbup:

The carbs are fixable if you know what you are doing. I would start by tuning the carb - H&L screws and reset the idle. If the saw still plays up then look again.

Where it has snapped, is the band worn through by the abrasion of the clutch drum or is it as it was fitted but fractured? If it has worn through then I would suspect the fitting/siting of the band, if it has fractured then it may be a manufacturing fault but unlikely on a safety system part!

The chain shouldnt run on a normal idle, undoing the idle screw to the "left" Anticlockwise?? will slow the idle down. If the saw is dying when the brake is applied but not when the brake is off, it sounds like a clutch issue. You could remove the clutch and see if the saw can hold an idle without it and adjust the idle without the clutch and then grease the needle bearing and refit it and try again - make sure the bar and chain are fitted otherwise it could undo and fly off. The clutch has a left hand thread - clockwise to spin it off! I would check the clutch is greased/oiled and free spinning with the bar and chain off. I would then replace the bar and chain and adjust the idle so it idles with the brake off and then apply it and see what happens. If that stalls it, the issue is with the clutch/spring/drum/bearing but if it idles OK but dies again after revving then it is probably a carb setting - perhaps running a little rich but hard to say. If the chain spins at idle then either the idle is too fast or the clutch spring or bearing are buggered!

It sounds like it is flooding, it may be a leaking needle valve in the carb, it is possible the choke valve is sticking on, this usually makes the saw unable to rev out. It may be that the L screw on the carb just needs a simple adjustment. Other than this, it could be a leaking welch plug or dodgy accelerator pump. You did ask!

Mmmm - it is a full genuine version of Windows 7 but for some reason it thinks it is not - bloody Microsoft:001_rolleyes: been like it since the laptop failed and needed reloading - will have to sort it out! Know what you mean about 023s, not quite as bad as the 039 though!

I had one of these saws kicking around until I put it on Ebay and that is where you may get one from if you wait. You may be able to modify an 026 muffler but having never tried it, I can't say if it is possible. The part code you need is 1118 140 0600

Glad to be of help, I always like to treat my customers how I would wish to be treated myself and that is good cost options, involvement with any unexpected additions and support if anything goes wrong after the saw is returned (a rare occurrence:thumbup:). Thanks for using my services and let me know if I can be of help in the future.

A wet test can up the compression. Basically the fluid seals up the rings against the piston and between the rings and the bore. On some saws it makes a difference and on some not. It just depends on residue oil and the wear on the engine. At 125psi, if measured on a Gunson Hi Gauge, I would think that a low reading. If a hefty first pull gives you 70psi or above then that isn't bad and have seen saws make 100psi on the first pull and only 135psi a few pulls later and run perfectly. It sort of depends on the first pull AND the reading after a number of pulls. Generally a saw will make double the compression of the first pull but it does depend on the design of the engine.

You are probably missing the first "pop" of the engine and then flooding it. 125psi is very low but may be down to the gauge you are using!

I said a while ago that it is strange when you seem to get a number of the same saws in to fix. Just had another T540XP in which was playing up a bit. The chain had come off and taken out the crankcase so was replaced under warranty but the saw hadn't been too good since. The software had said possible seize on error code 017 but I now think this may be down to the original failure as I have found a bad air-leak on the flywheel side as per the bubbly around the seal. Felt tip pens really do make superb bungs for the manifolds:lol: All I can imagine is that the seals were put in by the repairing dealer and one had cracked on insertion as it hasn't had much use. These seals are exactly the same as the MS200 and are very fragile. The software did show the carb set to a very rich mix, obviously compensating for the air leak and it has saved the machine from a bad seize. The piston was in great shape and once the saw is rebuilt, will reset the fuel back to factory so it can be run and reset again.

And this and the guys H&S is why I never lend saws out. Have a look on eBay, if you can't find anything on there then good luck! The cylinder can probably be saved and can do this relatively cheaply for you if you like, the piston may need to be aftermarket!

May need cutting tools, perhaps a wood chisel, mallet and GCSe in wood work will suffice! Brave man letting just anyone do it, lack of insurance may be an interesting issue if it takes out the fence/house/someone. Oh, you may need a van to take the debris away:001_rolleyes: will a wheel barrow do??

Fairly local to me but I am away:thumbdown: bugger, it would have been good to catch up with a few of the guys on here!

Seen many across my bench:001_rolleyes: for some reason, not happy with the saw/trimmer not working, throwing the machine out of a hedge/tree and the following big repair bill makes the owner feel better:001_rolleyes: How about a bit of maintenance rather than treating the kit like crap and then the surprise when it finally fails to run! One of the trimmers had the choke gaffer taped in a certain position where it would just about start and also run:sneaky2: Well...it beats having the carb serviced....doesn't it:confused1:

Reasonable idea!

Great minds and all that:thumbup:

I guess you may be ble to make up a small plate with a hardened pin on it and use a clamp or vice to pop the pin out. TBH, I have never had any issues with these pins. You could try a bit of penetrating oil on it??

Typically the only two stroke exhausts where back pressure is important are tuned expansion pipes where the wave caused by the exhaust exiting has to hit the end cone and hit the next stroke as the exhaust exits again. This is all about the return wave forcing some unburnt fuel in the exhaust back in to the combustion chamber and the down pipe, expansion length, cone diameted and angles are all critical. Chainsaw exhausts are VERY basic and only offer a rudimentary baffle and containment can so offers little in the way of tuning or specific backpressure. If you try any custom exhaust, I would make sure the saw is tuned to fourstroke or burble when flat out and to clean up in the cut under load. Alternatively, tune to 1,000rpm under maximum specified revs with a tach. You can make a manifold and down pipe then either use a car/bike type silencer, use a bike exhaust or custom build - you need it relatively free breathing to maximise power and mount to the engine rather than handles for obvious reasons - interesting project!

I usually grind the pointy end off a suitable nail and use this as a punch and hit with a small hammer - if it doesnt shift one way, try the other. It may just be a little rust holding it in

In my opinion you can't charge too much as a new chain loop is only £15 - £20 and many will just make their own loops themselves. To do the cutters and rakers/depth gauges, it takes time to do a good job and the worst bit is most professionals sharpen themselves and hate others doing it. I rarely sharpen chains other then a tickle up to make sure a serviced machine can be used straight away if it came in with a chain fitted in a poor state! Locals ask for their home owner saws to be sharpened and £5-7 each isn't much of a business proposition!

Definitely hookey:sneaky2::lol: