spudulike

Correct and good advice. You always get a lip formed on discs through wear and rust and is perfectly normal. Manufacturers give a minimum disc thickness and if you are close or beyond that, they need replacing. If they need doing, look up the cost of the discs and pads, if the labour is then a couple of hours then you are about right on the cost.

Neat job:thumbup:

I guess we have to ask if this AEA have the power or authority to ban the sale of top handled saws and if their banning would be a good thing when climbers would then be forced to use ground saws for limbing and pruning work which in itself would cause more injury than the use of a few uneducated people using top handled saws in an unsuitable manner.

It shouldn't do that, all saws make virtually no power at idle revs so to slip shows that there is something wrong. Bit like resting the bar on a piece of wood with light force and then trying to rev the machine - chances are it will just bog. Do it at flat out and the engine will be on full chat and stopping it will take far more force. It may be that the brake handle pin has broken, the spring is worn or the linkage has failed. It needs sorting for safe use!

Yup, I would say Stubby but a certain AT member would get a bit excited:lol:

Not a bloody big pipe, a short stubby one around 5mm proud of the plastic cover:001_rolleyes: Size isn't everything:lol:

I know I could be refered to as an obsessional perfectionist but hows about trimming the plastic struts around the hole and how cool would it look if you brazed a little outlet pipe on the muffler. Ah well, must just be me then:001_rolleyes::lol:

If your local guy has the autotune diagnostic kit, it will show up as a rich setting on the H&L screws - seen this before on a 540 with leaking seals. It does sound like fuel starvation at high revs or an air leak though!

Yes, 372XP is inboard, check for wear on all components, it shouldn't slip and shoud stop a saw dead from high revs.

There is no real science behind a simple muffler mod, On a saw this size 8mm - 10mm hole, you need to drill it where the outlet will not melt plastic although sometimes the plastic can be cut back to reveal the new hole. Position - I try to avoid having the outlet direct in line with the exhaust port as it can get VERY loud. Generally on saws like this, I try to get an idea of where the exhaust port is and look for the exhaust gases to hit the opposing side of the exhaust and then drill a hole to make their escape as straight and easy as possible. The can isn't tuned like an expansion tuned pipe so all you are doing is increasing the flow. Not done a 193 to date hence the info above and not a direct answer!

I did come across these things - Alarm trip mine (12g) Basically a 12 bore cartridge with the shot taken out so around an inch high and a holder and a trip wire. Set it up, trip wire across the entrance or tied to some of the gear and when the trip is pulled....bingo. it goes off with a bang of a shotgun. It may give them a heart attack or even scare yourself if you let it off by mistake but thought it was a neat alarm:thumbup:

Some people shouldn't be in customer facing service markets. I think this is why I get so busy! It doesn't cost too much to text through your progress and of any delays or pull forwards plus options on costs of spares before money is spent. Think it is about time these guys treat others how they would wish to be treated themselves!

Try disconnecting that black wire and try again - I would get a spanner/scwrench on the cylinder and earth the plug on that rather than using your thumb on the HT lead as you may find you have an inherent cardiac issue that may kill you:thumbdown: The gap on the coil to flywheel looks a little large, slip a piece of A4 printer paper folded in half between the coil and flywheel, loosen the coil, push it against the paper and do it up again. Make sure the flywheel doesn't touch the coil and try it again. If there still isn't a spark - it is new coil time.

Will keep an eye out on the kit I get in Ben and sympthise, look out for the scroats coming back after the insurance payout.

I joke with the wife about the traffic on the stairs being a little heavy, not going to miss the trawl around the M25 or the idiots on the roads I use. I am looking forward to it and get enjoyment from turning a busted and broken bit of kit in to a working tool which will make money for years to come.

Cheers Barrie, the business will infact be going full time in the New Year, just not made an announcement about it yet but you are more than welcome to pop some of the higher value kit over that you don't like the look of, it is my stable diet:001_rolleyes: just not too much please. So you found Ye Olde English Dictionary for Ye Olde Words did you:lol:

So we gather Jon. Do you do it during the hours of darkness or venture out during the day:blushing:

You are a funny lot in the West Country, you can get arrested up here for getting your fat balls out:001_tongue:

Not wishing to be controversial or lambasting my mate Barrie, we all have different ways of working and ways of doing business.........I have done a significant amount of repairs to seized machines with only one ever coming back and believe that this was just a case of the saw bedding in a bit fast and over-revving and not being picked up by the operator. Even this has now been fixed again! The bottom ends tend to take a fair amount of abuse due to the nature and size of the bearings but do check them for play and smoothness before reassembling. I have had one machine that actually bent its rod when it seized but even managed to straighten that using some VERY unconventional methods and it ran OK afterwards. Some saws deposit a lot of aluminium if they still run poorly after seizing. These can be touch and go but as long as the mains are flushed and show no sign of being "catchy" then it is worth a punt IMO. The bottom line on this sort of repair is to Pressure and Vac test all machines that have failed ensuring the crank seals, impulse line, manifold and ALL sealing surfaces are airtight. I also check the fuel line and carb ensuring it is clean, in good condition and then tach the machine so the saw is known to be good - I guess this is why I have a higher level of success than many less stringent techs. Each man to his own, I know what works for the guys that send their machines to me and think the result is proof that it works. Sorry Barrie, just my own opinion:blushing:

I remember your test, very interesting although on a saw, you are pulling another circa 3000rpm+ and is under a lot more load in a big cut so may be different - you got any saws you want to test with sraight fuel? All interesting stuff though!

Been asked to list this PDF by another member:001_tongue: English_Piston_Failure_Analysis_Guide.pdf

I tend to find that saws running lean will bleach the plug white or even light grey through overheating. The plug tends to stay normal colour when straight fueled as it kills the saw very quickly, not fast enough to colour the plug. The pistons tend to look very much the same, too much heat destroys the exhaust side.

Thanks Mat, always good......apart from that MS340, not sure that was a pleasure:001_rolleyes: Hope it is OK now?

I can't find a Meteor aftermarket piston so would avoid the Chinese stuff. I would believe that the original bore can be cleaned/salvaged, an OEM piston fitted (circa £85-90) and the machine checked for cause of failure for under £250 but what do I know:sneaky2::lol:

What's on the bench...........MS200 for a new accelerator pump and carb tune - now done, an 046 bogging and lack of power - new fuel filter, carb overhaul and check, new tank breather and pressure/vac checks. 346XP seized, cylinder now cleaned and piston on order - route cause...split manifold! 365 - seized, ported 357XP in for a service after being severely used for ringing up tonnes of timber, an 088 for new AV and needle clutch bearing, a 076 for a new carb kit, a 576 and 560XP to go on the diagnostic as both are suffering from lack of high speed power. I am a little busy:001_rolleyes: