spudulike

Ah, they are using more plastic............just like those £75 Chinese jobbies on ebay.........and??? If you take a 560XP apart, you will note that it has clever transfer ports in front of the saw - there are good technical reasons for doing this down to transfer velocity. You also note the length and straightness of the inlet tract and the angle of the exhaust/cylinder optimising scavanging - this was the FIRST saw I had seen such things on and I haven't even mentioned the autotune. Now this design IS radical.......and the MS362........??? Have they stopped it eating needle bearings??

We have a Stovax Riva, been good and great heat, had it 13 years and replaced the fire bricks once and made a stronger internal baffle plate as we got a build up of ash on it, the wife didn't notice and it warped but very happy with it.

Think I have had enough of peering in cardboard boxes and saying WTF.....really.........port this saw, you must be kidding.............does it actually run:001_rolleyes: Not your saws though, always well turned out and a joy by most standards. The worst offender.............that would be telling:sneaky2:

Yeah, looks like some of your better stuff:sneaky2:

OK, OEM then......only seen one saw with similar damage and it was on a high hours MS260 that had that much piston slap, it actually shattered through fatigue. Golf are OK pistons, just check it over before fitting but it should give some more life to the saw - not too much to lose!

Yes, as above, you pressure check at around 10psi so a gauge reading 300psi is unsuitable. You can use the Gunson Low gauge and suitable methods of creating both vacuum and pressure with a suitable valve system as this gauge has suitable ranges in both positive and negative pressure!

So whats radical??? Fuel injection, carbon fibre bar????? Why release a new model with an old models name?? The 362s I have played with have been OKish but share the MS261s traits of eating clutch bearings and oiler worm drives:thumbdown: Not very radical unless you like fitting spares:confused1:

If anyone on this site buys it, I DO NOT want to get it going, judging by the looks of it the owner found it in the village pond

We have had mice and rats, mice I can put up with in the garden but had them in the loft and workshop so got a load of rat poison from Wilkinson and it sorted them out PDQ:thumbup: Living out in the sticks, we get rats in the garden after the birdfood in the winter but the 0.22 PCP deals with them - had the thing in bits once and the wife screamed "we have a rat in the garden" - not a follow up to UB40s Rat in the Kitchen:lol: Grabbed the .177 TX200 and dispatched the big bugger - pretty effective:thumbup: The neighbour said that he needed my air rifle one year as he had seen a rat - the wife said "don't worry, Steve has shot it":thumbup: Rats - hate them:thumbdown:

Funny enough I have just answered a post questioning the materials used in pistons. It is possible this piston was to brittle or undersized and the slap at the bottom of the stroke shattered it! What make was it?? Golf are generally pretty good but not as good as Meteor that I class as near OEM quality! Pistons should use an aluminium/silicon mix or alloy, silicon is added in specific amounts to control thermal expansion. It is possible that this piston was fabricated from a more brittle/hard aluminium alloy mix! Check the crankcase isnt cracked and the cylinder ports are not bruised. The rod may be bent but you will find out on reassembly!

The natural progression is OEM.........Meteor.........Hyway..............Other poop. In my opininon, I would choose Meteor well above Hyway as from what I have seen, the Meteor pistons and cylinders have e very good finish. I have just ported a new Meteor cylinder on a MS660 and the plating is everybit as hard as OEM.....in fact it was damn hard so a good sign. The pistons use Caber rings and good quality circlips - I always use Meteor unless cost or availabillity is constricted by the owner/market. The pistons from Max (Latvia), Leo (Greece) are fine and they are good sellers however you can now get most of them from the UK now. If you are doing this type of work, I would recommend pressure/vac checking the saw and inspecting the fuel system as if you don't, the saw is likely to repeat it's failure:thumbdown: The MS660 I have just done has eaten the OEM cylinder/piston and also an aftermarket one. The owner gave it to me and I have fitted a ported Meteor cylinder and piston, had it pressure/vac tested, carb overhauled and it is now working as it should and will last for years to come! On the £15 pistons - you get what you pay for and would only use as a last option due to cost/availabillity. The rings and circlips can be suspect, the piston materials can be unknown and the sizing can be hit and miss. I have had rings snap/snag, ring ends be badly formed and even the arrow on the crown pointing in the wrong direction!

Opening up an exhaust may give 15-25% faster cut speeds. It just depends on how restricted the muffler is. Most modern saws are well restricted so a MM gives good gains but older vintage saws less so as most are not restricted much so not so many gains. A muffler mod is generally an easy modification to start with but it will make your saw much louder & may need some changes to the carb setting.

Big sound for three piece:thumbup: Had a bit of Battle of Evermore in the car today.....nice:thumbup:

I was watching Axemen recently and a guy fell out of a boat and dragged his inner arm down the chain of a non running saw - claret everywhere and quite amazing how much damage a light brush with the chain can do. Interesting info and does show up the common danger areas when using saws.

Did a mole and a rat with this relativly cheap trap...[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/STV-International-Stv312-STV312-MOLE/dp/B001DYTNV4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448570977&sr=8-2&keywords=mole+trap]STV312 - MOLE CLAW TRAP: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Kd4EVuxOL.@@AMEPARAM@@41Kd4EVuxOL[/ame]

Very difficult to get other parts to fit and not easy to fabricate either. I do have a 114si in the collection, it runs and am happy to check the band but would want £60 delivered for it or you can pickup for £50!

You know when you do a job and it is that good you even surprise yourself.... This was one of them......spot bollock on

If it was a clam engine then I would have done the same but didn't like the possibility of dropping swarf in to the cylinder but know it can be done this way!

Grey handed to be precise:sneaky2:

Thats nothing, I was caught red handed baking the paint on my refurbed 066 in the oven....wasn't a good moment:blushing:

Been working on a Stihl MS362, it has a stripped spark plug hole and looks like the plug may have come loose and then blasted out of the hole. Been here before so have a set procedure on how to fix. Some prefer the helicoil fix, one thing that generally produces poor results are the £10 kits off eBay, the art in fixing an expensive OEM cylinder is straightness of the hole and the quality of the tapping. I use a stainless steel copper plated insert that I grind to size before fitting. I ream the hole out so it is to size for tapping. I then use a quality tap to cut the receiving hole - note the use of the spitit level to ensure the tap is dead vertical. Once the hole is tapped, I use a very high temperature permanenent Loctite thread-lock on the insert that will stop the insert ever coming loose! The finished repair is more solid then the original and offers an extremely robust repair:thumbup:

He is just south east of Exeter, nice outfit:thumbup:

Have a chat with Gardenkit "Barrie", really good guy and has a lifetime of experience in mowers!