spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The XPG ones are always difficult to tell if the bearings are smooth due to the coils mounted on the crankcase at the back of the flywheel. It always makes them feel notchy. It may be worth removing the flywheel so you can tell and if you take the cylinder off, any roughness will be evident as the bearings will be silky smooth and you should be able to spin the crank round at speed by lightly moving the little end up and down! Move the crank ends up down and side to side to ensure those bearings are good - not always easy to tell for the novice but there should be no play evident!
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Been porting a MS660 today, got the degree wheel on it and it is surprising the difference in the timing figures to the older 066/064. Around 5 degrees extra inlet, a lot more on the exhaust giving more compression and a lower power-band. The saw had a high blow-down figure of 28 degrees and set about re-profiling the roof of the exhaust port so the blow-down figure could be lowered which I did to 22 degrees. The exhaust and inlet timing were left the same and opened up the lower transfers as normal. I did a big muffler mod as I couldn't get hold of a dual port muffler cover. It ended up as a nice job on a very decent saw.
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Pull the plug out and see if the saw is easy to spin over and there is no hindrance in the crankshaft. The coil isn't gunged up with wood chip is it? One thought, from the XPG, it must have heated handles so would check the coil assembly around the back of the flywheel is still in place. It is possible the magnet has become detached from the flywheel or the coil power generator (not the ignition coil) has become loose!
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Worth checking the main bearings out and looking at the piston through the exhaust port as well! Sounds like a mechanical issue but difficult to tell!
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I get all sorts in and TBH, some are non runners but become runners during the porting process as it includes a good refurb as there is no point in porting something that doesn't run or porting something that leaks air or has fuel issues! Good luck with the project!
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And that is why most send their saws to someone that can sort them out doing what they do best letting you do what you do best.....just hope it isn't saw repair:blushing:
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It has been seized but made 170psi compression. I reckon I could get it going but probably not worth it TBH! The plastic looks OK and the parts on it are OK. You would have got £50 on ebay as a non runner.....what are people like:001_rolleyes:
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Out walking with the wife today, on the homeward stretch a few hundred yards out of the village and she says...."Ooooh look at that" and there it was, a little Tanaka lying there in the ditch. I know it is ratty, full of water etc but not bad for free. A few useful parts on it as it stands!
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I would say it is a ring issue or collapse of one of the ends - you can usually tell if an end is damaged by rotating the flywheel to and forth with the piston visible through the exhaust port and see if there is just too much play in the crank. I would say the ring is just bonded in the piston with gummed oil or carbon. Had that before and freed mine up with a bit of heat from a plumbers torch and a little GT85.
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Treat the autotune carbs as normal carbs and check the gauze strainer and pumping diaphragm. Once you have checked it over, if everything else is OK then it may be the autotune part but had a 560 in recently, local dealer "fit a new P&C" .....I found the pumping diaphragm was holed....bit of a radical change of destiny and bill!!! Fuel line is a good call, they often chafe a little around the compression fit going in to the tank. The juddering - is it a rich flubby judder, a lean pulsing or a mechanical judder? What is the colour of the plug like?
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Yup, PF:thumbup: Thought it must have been old, the details have worn off the sticker and know the latest ones are much better:thumbup:
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Well we hit the 500,000 views on this thread:thumbup: Can't be bad! Had an MS200 in, from the sticker on it I knew I was in for trouble:sneaky2: Sorry Barrie, had to take the proverbial:thumbup: The saw was in for porting but found a helicoil insert had failed so thought I would use a stainless marine insert so tapped the hole out to 8mm and inserted it with a little thread-lock leaving a very strong fix. These are self tapping but thought cutting the outside thread using conventional methods may be better.
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Mmmm, I know, the owner also paid good money for it and it was one of the worst ones I had seen. The really strange one was that the crank bearings had zero play, the seals were perfect and it ended up with 200psi compression. Think he will be happy with the performance!
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My heart dropped when this one came through, I wasn't sure if I should service it, feed it pedigree chum or put a lead on it and take it for a walk. I started to strip it and after taking the covers off had found such delights as:- A little wear on the sprocket:001_rolleyes: A disintegrated front AV mount An oiler cap that loose it had been held in place with a wood screw....that's right...A WOOD SCREW I then sounded off at the poor guy that had brought it round rather than the owner.....bad of me:blushing: The exhaust looked like a burger that had been on the fire for 2 hours:sneaky2: and the instruction was "Port it"......bit like taking a banger from the scrap heap in for servicing at the local dealer. Long and short, big parts list but it is pretty unstoppable on a 12" bar now, it just keeps pulling.......though it has just pinched my slippers and pissed on the rug:lol:
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And some carbide burrs:thumbup:
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I have never changed a fuel filter in a petrol tank. I don't change them unless they are minging! I have never greased a bar tip on any saw or the clutch bearing on a husky. Nope, nor do I I have never cleaned the fins on my 2 strokes. I think I have seen some of your saws, they cool your engine, if the engine gets too hot:thumbdown: In twenty years I have not changed more than 10spark plugs on the saws/strimmers/hedge cutters. When I have it's usually in an effort to fix a saw, and it hasn't worked. I generally don't change plugs unless the thread in the end electrode has gone or the plug is buggered which is very rare Air filters should be cleaned regularly as the saw will ingest some very fine particles plus the saw will run richer with a blocked air filter. Worn sprockets.....just change the bloody things, if you don't, I will:sneaky2:
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I noticed, is it some sort of EU partnership:sneaky2:
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Breather - 0000 350 5800 Strainer - 1114 121 7800 Fuel line - 1129 358 7702 Fuel Filter - 0000 350 3504 Wiring Harness - 1133 440 3002
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ms 270- ms 270c - ms 280- ms 280 c Planche éclatée, IPL Don't get side-tracked by the young lady to the right of the document:lol:
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Nice job Wes, not sure about that bar though:sneaky2:
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Sounds like the accelerator pump or leaking welch plug to me! other than that - possible air leak on seals, impulse or inlet manifold.
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Check the wires from the coil to the choke switch. They are connected to the autotune connected to the high speed circuit. If it is broken, the saw will run very rich and flubby. Other than that, it sounds like it is running out of fuel as the saw is put under load so make sure the fuel line is OK by pressurising it and also check the gauze strainer in the carb as if this is blocked, there will be enough fuel for idle but not enough for full blown running. Worth looking at the fuel tank breather as well.
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The exhaust outlet points down at the ground, one hot summer, a bit of dry grass chainsaw left idling and .........flippin heck, get the hose:blushing:
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Rotary disk valve, there's an interesting one, wonder if you can port them by grinding the disk:sneaky2:
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Ahhhh Husqvarna L65.......there's a saw, set my lawn alight with one once:lol:
