spudulike
-
Posts
14,914 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
The cost of the crank will be high unless you have a donor machine. High is around £265 inc VAT so factor that in before going any further. I have no idea how they managed to snap a rod as they are designed to take a lot of pressure but that is history. Work out the costs of replacement parts and go from there. Depending on how tight the bearings are in the cases and on the crankshaft depends on the pullers/splitters you need. I sometimes get just the crankcases and parts in from customers who are trying to keep costs down. The job can be anything from simple to an absolute bitch. On a relatively new machine it should be that bit easier.
-
Pull it out, plug it in to a Windows machine and try to format it again. There was a spate of some dodgy SD cards going around where the manufacturers were programming say a 4GB card to read that it was a 32GB or larger and would only fail when your kit tried to write to the sectors over 4GB. Also sellers often make out the cards are super fast and are in reality pretty substandard at best. Ebay and Amazon were rife with them so beware. Mini Tool Partition Wizard is pretty good at accessing them and manipulating partitions but check it does have the stated capacity by using other software to write to each sector or.....purchase from a reputable retailer:sneaky2: That is if you haven't already!
-
I would say it is to do with the wages stagnating and the house prices going up by circa four times since the late 80s. The trouble is that lenders will lend more, people will borrow more and the prices go up. People say there house is their pension but the trouble is that you still need somewhere to live! Not sure I would want to be in my twenties in this current environment!
-
Just had to look that up to see if it was correct.....bloody hell, that is some statistic...shows the sad state of the country's wealth. Something is very wrong with the system if this is where we are!!!
-
Some Bio oils dry to form a glue like gunge that is a right bugger to get off engine parts. I hate this stuff and it is almost impossible to get it off a saw once it has hardened. If you use one, make sure it is one that doesn't go solid as I have seen chains welded in to bar rails with the stuff....not good!
-
How droll, how we laughed at that one, ho ho ho:001_rolleyes: If you must know, it contains my bubbly water for pressure test fails so the leaks bubble up:thumbup: I wondered which of you bright sparks would comment:sneaky2: It is nice on Turkey at Chrimbo:thumbup:
-
Another MS200T, never seen this before. I guess a weekend warrior but both seals were fitted back to front and the impulse line was connected to the crankcase but the other end was flapping in the breeze.
-
If all else fails, locate a screwdriver in the H screw slot and turn it anticlockwise 1/4 turn or as far as it will go if the limiters are fitted. It will help the saw from damaging itself. The 8 pin thinking is that the shorter bar will need less torque due to the length of the bar so fitting an 8 pin gives more chain speed that will make the saw faster in the cut. Fitting an 8 pin on a longer bar would normally make it boggy but on a short bar, the power you have on tap is enough to keep up speed in the cut.
-
It is devil and deep blue see job with the OEM part being an eye watering £250 and the aftermarket ones at £40. The OEM part makes repair non economical so there you go. Another Chinky one going in and will hopefully last longer. The customer would have made his money back on the previous repair and I did point out the dangers of aftermarket kit....it is all I can do!
-
Check to see if the adjuster screws have plastic limit caps on them, if not, turn the screws in lightly until fully in and then one turn out. If the limiters are on the screws then just turn the H screw out till it stops. I wish people who don't have a clue on adjusting carbs, would stop adjusting them......you can pass this on to your mate:001_rolleyes:
-
I didn't like to say but it does seem steep but guess others have larger overheads then me. The only reason I said it is that I have a couple of the grey covers in the workshop.....no time though:blushing:
-
People are always asking how good aftermarket parts are. I had a MS660 in a few months back, the crank and piston were buggered. After discussion with the owner that the crank was around £250 we decided to go aftermarket. It came back in a few days ago and was seized solid. A quick inspection showed the top end was good so pulled it and found the crank had split in two. I am currently splitting the cases and going to try another and see how it goes. Never seen this type of carnage before!
-
Not a problem, always the owners choice:thumbup:
-
Get someone to tach it with the tiddy bar on it as if it has been set up on a 24" it may over-rev on the much shorter bar.
-
You may find it better to get a bookkeeper. My wife does mine and it is just a case of recording your earnings (turnover), taking out your business expenses (Phone, tools, fuel, kit to do your job) and you are left with profit (hopefully). Best to do this on a monthly basis so you can keep an eye on what you are actually earning. You will need to reconcile your invoices with payments in to your bank account and be accurate on this. If paid in cash then pay the cash in in the sums you have received it otherwise it will be a mare. You need to run your year from a specific month, April to April makes sense. The HMRC thing - you will need to do online self certification, basically entering in what you have turned over, what you have spent out, any other earnings such as shares, renting out rooms/land etc and then it will calculate the tax you owe. Good luck
-
A healthy engine, even a small one will pull 140-170psi, some manage higher but the 60 you are getting means that there is a serious issue as a seized engine often pulls more. Check the bore for wear, check the rings for wear (especially the ends), make sure they are free in their grooves, make sure the exhaust port is free of carbon, check the end gap on the rings is 7-15 thou, make sure the piston is a good fit in the bore, make sure the crown isn't cracked or holed. There must be a serious issue somewhere unless this machine has some sort of strange decomp on it!
-
Mmmm- should have PMed me and saved a few bucks......next time, if there is one!
-
Is that one pull or 5-7 pulls holding the throttle open?
-
The 026/MS260 are susceptible to piston slap and if left, the piston wears to the point the piston skirt can shatter. I put this down to the cylinder not being extended in to the crankcase as on some saws which does reduce this. The wear on the piston and all that aluminium will have found its way in to the main bearings and will normal leave them in a real bad way. You can try flushing them out but from what you say, it sounds like they are past reclaiming. Looks like a full rebuild to me, the cylinder may be OK if the plating isn't worn through so check this thoroughly and clean the ports and bevels before reuse.
-
Check the linkages on the carb are set up right. I had one that a customer had taken apart and it was doing pretty much what yours is. Make sure the choke comes off when the choke lever is raised and make sure the throttle valve opens when the throttle is opened and make sure the strato valve opens low to mid revs. It is easy to get the linkage wrong - worth taking photos when doing them as it jogs the memory - the 550/560XP choke lever is a classic case of this!
-
Yeah, one big $h1t slinging argument and then all make up and move on. Everyone knows where they stand then......rock and roll, bring it on:thumbup:
-
Impulse line, split manifold, split fuel line!
-
Unlikely unless it is damaged. Just split it, look for the cause of the leak, fit a new gasket and then reassemble correctly. Should be a reasonable job but if you want someone else to do it, strip it and send me just the crankcase/crankshaft assembly in and will get it stripped and assembled again. Just done a 346 for another member like this! Entirely up to you!
-
And I was in the middle of making a crankcase splitter.....helps when you remove all the bolts:sneaky2: I miss our chats:001_tongue:
-
I saw it wasn't a Mahle one but guessed Dolmar made it themselves but don't know for sure. I haven't used the saw as I get grief if I start firing up ported saws but there was a fair bit done and it should go well. Will find out when the owner picks it up and runs it a bit!
