spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I believe it should be "Spaz" or "Spacky" if I remember correctly from my school days...it has been a while! Mong....not heard that in decades!
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Retards...not very PC eh Joe?
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I think he is just using the bolts to hold the engine together whilst the liquid gasket dries thus holding the engine together when fitting in to the plastic cradle. You couldn't leave the nuts on the bottom unless you modify the cradle and reckon it would significantly reduce the strength!
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I don't tend to wear carabiners or strops when in the workshop? Perhaps I could start servicing Mission Impossible like, hanging off the ceiling!!!?
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Ha, that's an easy one, the best way to get your saw clean......CLEAN OFF ALL THE FECKING CRAP BEFORE IT GETS BAKED ON.......oh......AND STOP USING CHEAP SHYTE CHAIN OIL!!!!! BUY A SODDING COMPRESSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! White Spirit and a paint brush then blast it off REGULARLY...it isn't rocket science! I have never found any solvent or fluid that will shift this sort of thing, a 3.5-4mm drill in a dremmel is about the only thing that shifts it!!! That and a sharp craft knife! Not directed at Ian but at all the guys that send me saws like that calling them "looked after"......REALLY!!!!!!!! Rant over....not wheres that G&T?
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Thanks for the vote Mr Stubby?
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You do know you can use the top of the starter handle to undo the fuel and oil caps.......don't you???
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Well, I did say? Glad it worked out OK...another win!
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It is a bastard Andy, I didn't see my father from April to the time he died in hospital (non Covid in this case). Robbed doesn't come close to it!
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I would never look at changing the accelerator pump before I looked at the pump diaphragm and the gauze strainer. No 1 they are much simpler items to check and No 2, they are more likely to have failed than the pump unless the saw is 6 years plus old and heavily used. Oh....but what do I know?
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Although it pains me, you are correct, only seen the 2nd one a handful of times - the first was the best and the sequels got worse and worse - the 2nd was pretty good and the rest, pretty dodgy. The dog came along in the 2nd one and had a go at the Gyro Copter fella - makes it MM2! Looking forward to seeing all those Z1000 and GS1000s on the road in 2021!!
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If you have cleaned the bore it will work fine.....been talking to my mate Mystic Meg, got her crystal ball in my workshop, some of you on here are dirty boys btw?
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I must have seen that film 20-30 times, one of the all time greats......IMO although I am sure some will say Mamma Mia or the Sound of Music are theirs!!!
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Yup, met up a few times, nice bloke and also a very knowledgeable fella...well done!
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Check the compression is OK, if you can't, pop off the muffler and look at the piston thought the exhaust port making sure the piston isn't scored. Change the plug. Change the fuel filter and service the carb with s new carb kit. If you can't do this, give it to someone else to do.....preferably not me unless you are local!
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All I have plastered is artexed fracking ceilings, bloody pain in the posterior. Couldn't believe how much easier it is on a flat surface.
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I would slap in a Meteor £40 piston, do all the ancillary work I mentioned earlier and put some hours on it. Big engines suffer a lot less from this sort of thing compared to smaller engines. You should be able to delete the base gasket as well which should help but check the squish first.
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I would stick a new piston in it. I think you will be surprised with how well it will work. The damage under the port looks light and is much less likely to cause issues than the inlet side which would cause lots of blow back and leakage on crankcase primary compression. If you haven't, lightly hone it with a rotary hone and see if you can get a Meteor, Hyway or Golf/Vec piston in that order! Engines don't see that the bore isn't visually pleasing. They just work on compression made hot and cold etc. Make sure you pressure and vac test then service the fuel system and tach the saw a bit rich to let it all bed in!
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Just make one with 0.5mm gasket paper! It may have been deleted to up the compression, especially if there was liquid gasket used!
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Sharp wood chisel on the old gasket. My money is still on old oil causing Mega compression, seen that before. It is usually this or fuel in the crankcase causing a lock. Just reassemble after cleaning the bore with WD40. Use no oil and try it again. Reckon it will be back to normal!
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DB Schenker, I used to use a company called Bax Global to ship in to Dell Limerick many years ago when in my former job. They got taken over by DB Schenker...reminded me of Michael Schenker of UFO fame! Bax Global were good, not used Schenker for many years!
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I am going to retire and do all those things I have been meaning to do for a while....like inspect my navel fluff!!
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It should have a cylinder base gasket as standard or at least be sealed with liquid gasket which would raise the compression and seal the engine as it should be. No gasket or sealing compound would cause an air leak giving running issues but not your symptoms.
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Probably a fluid lock....fuel mix in the bottom of the crankcase. Pull the plug, turn the unit upside down, pull it over hard a few times and see if the engine kicks out fluid. If nothing comes out, it may be just old oil on the bore making the compression super high. If it isn't this, it may be one of the bolts holding the cowel on catching the back of the flywheel which is common to Stihl blowers but the plug being in or out shouldn't matter. Unlikely to be the plug as it is a CMR6H and they are pretty long anyway and am not sure you can get a longer type!
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I have used DHL for many years and they have been pretty good!
