blazer

Like the growing trend to reduce the risk of posting pictures of your siezed up private parts (Readers saws:blushing:)- well thats what they often look like, I brought a 'Tiny Tach'. Tried it out on my MS260 + 600rpm H screw fully out on stop? same with a MS 460 and after say 10 tank fulls a new 200t is running at 15K set as supplied again with H screw fully out on stop. With a few more to test it appears they are all running a bit lean - so are other guys saws also running too fast, but not aware - running fine but not 4 stroking on max? On the MS460 I now fitted a twin port exhaust (now a real beast)so I removed the limiters to reset the H screw to 4 stroke on max rpm, so now I need to remove all the limiters to reset the other saws. For guys who have removed limiters - do you put them back on or leave them off for easier adjustment next time.

I have had a couple of Stihl bars jam up the nose wheel, sod to clear - just did it, first one quite a few times, no idea why. If it has jammed look at the chain when you drop power it should run down, not stop - if it does stop as it it braked, then it jamming again.

no doubt others will have a go at this one, but for me if the saw peaks at 14k top revs for a ms 260 then it must be ok or it would be 4 stroking, it could be the L screw is a bit rich but again I tune (not saying I'm right) so at bottom end it starts ok, runs ok and picks up ok then adjust the LA to set the tickover. Sometimes the plug colour can take a while to change. Without having it to check I will stop at that.

good idea - I keep say 10 in a plastic ammo box (HMR) for wet plug days:thumbup1: Always remember my dad saying he changed the plugs (cheap ones) in his pre-war car but it ran rough, his mate found x4 rusty plugs on his scrap heap, wire brushed them and fitted them, the old car ran well - taught me never buy cheap plugs:sneaky2:

often with any type of HV insulators, they will 'track' and burn a carbonized track to short/cct. Yrs ago at tech they had a plug tester that put a pressure under the plug, so you could see it fail.

I remember when it was the thickness of a fag packet:001_tt2: Some quality plugs will last years longer than cheapies. If plug gets wet, it will short across the insulator - so won't fire, best to take the plug out and leave the saw for say 15 min to allow the cylinder to dry, then fit a spare plug. One old trick is to heat the plug (with a lighter) before putting it back ( you can do this to a dirty plug so it will clean itself when running in the engine again). Old plugs can fail under pressure so if missfiring, try a new plug (don't overtighten) also clean top insulator. Check HT leads in the dark, old car trick is to run the engine in the dark and look for HT leakage. Always fit a plug of the same rating, check if a different make from a conversion chart, plugs are rated at different tempratures.

I treat them like a rifle barrel, need a bit of time to lap them in. From all the pictures on here of dropping burnt pistons looking like infected 'lads' in a mens health mag, I'm going careful. Maybe M/C bike engines have different tolerances

Spot on there mate I get the dogs to sort out my saws? Yep got 2 black working cockers, work well on a shoot. Do the lot, dogging in from a quad, beating close on drives and picking up. must put up a few more pictures.

go for short low load sessions for say 5 tank fulls, should be ok on std oil mix. It should be supplied set ok but try it out after 1 tank full for a short test if you like, but I just see if it picks up ok and feels ok for a while then test it.

I will try to answer best I can. The problem with 2T motors is the oil is with the fuel so, if a 4T runs weak it's not a problem for the piston ( will burn valves plugs etc) as the engine oil is a constant - but with a 2T motor weak fuel equals less lub on the piston = possible siezure. Most 2T motors will rev well if a bit weak and will 4 stroke if a bit rich, so the idea is to set the H screw so at max revs the engine will start to 4 stroke, setting the max revs and this way you know oil is getting to the piston. For example my MS260 will over rev a bit +14k but the H screw won't open any more so I need to remove the limiter cap to open a bit more. Example 2, I fitted a twin port exhaust to my MS460 (at last) so I needed to remove the limited caps to set the revs down to 13.5k before it started to 4 stroke but under load working it stops 4 stroking and runs smooth again. This is because it needs more fuel under load, so I assume it's about right but I need to run it hot for a while and cut the motor under load and check the plug colour - it can change colour as it drops back to tickover. Hope it helps:thumbup1:

Many thanks Spud, from memory most of the old 2T bikes I worked on were open ported, I just remember the gaskets with holes for the side of the transfer ports but the good ones didn't breakdown so I didn't find out how designs had changed, also by luck I haven't needed to take the top any of my saws. I assume a closed port engine could have a higher primary compression ratio? I remember a Bultaco bike I had with a split window on the large exhast port, but this used to make a wear mark in the L section top ring loosing some compression.

Could you please explain the difference between open & closed port:confused1: Thanks in advance - done a fair bit with engines but not too hot on some tech aspects.

Semi chisel on a 15" bar was my secret weapon for my cs31 (yonks back) giving me so much control 'but' with practice you will be able to put a 25 " bar through with a full chesil no probs. Saying that after a few sharpens it's a bit easier.

That's better:thumbup: Or maybe the original sign would stop 'straights' from walking into our work areas:001_tt2: Most walkers are like the 3 - monkeys with work signs; see no sign, hear no saw, can't hear a word they are saying. Maybe we could use mine field signs:sneaky2:

looks more like a Greek god - may attract the - how can I say it - well don't drop anything:blushing:

Do alot on a large country estate, so not in built up areas which must make it easier I find a winch on the back of my L200 makes life alot safer. As I'm from an engineering background I can access where the forces are and the balance, and make a working plan. Yep dangerous at times

Brought a new one for my wife 10 yrs ago, totally reliable, put snow chains on and you have a 'mini -panzer but even without it's good off road. It's a real fun car to drive but not really for long distances + with being a short 4x4 the steering is sensitive over 60mph. A bit bumpy on tracks compared to my L200 full of gear. Makes a good second car , I tend to use it alot as I can park it easily and carry a fair bit for 1/2 the fuel of the L200 pickup. To sum it up, would I sell it - never:thumbup1:

it's always sad to near of accidents but good to make us all realize they can happen to any of us, when we hear of another, knowing there will be more. I have a simple assessment rule before starting, 'at this point I can walk away from the tree'.

Good post totally agree. But what I haven't seen yet is any details of accidents using top handle saws and the reason for it happening. I love the 'because your not allowed' bit - with no detailed reason. To compare 'guns to saws' there is a connection - you can buy a saw without training and also a shotgun or a rimfire rifle, I have certificates for both, all I had to do was put down a reason for having guns, convince the FLO I was ok and not be a 'crim' plus no depression on my medical records no gun training (I think it changing). Oh and the dangerous toys & action man bit - I done the lot, still have a quad, guns, saws (63 nxt week) - I reason I picked up safety tips from other activities and used them for the next, sure it helps - plus I ask more these days.

Don't hold it in the same hand all evening - could make your shoulder ache:lol:

Bike helmets or even jet helmets are designed to part break on impact, to help absorb the impact - hence the need to change if dropped. but for me a construction type helmet should be ok with a good inspection, harness points as well.

Hope it sorts it's self out Pete, with a bit of physio no doubt, shoulders are such a flexiable joint it's easy to damage. Good luck with your CS30/31:thumbup1:

Maybe that's why a woman hippy type called my son a 'murderer' when doing some coppice work in a SSSI yesterday - she must have seen his Airstreams, and we thought it was because he had a chainsaw in his hand.

I'm well aware that 'top handle saws' shouldn't be used as a ground saw, but I have no data for the risk and accidents that have happened. Other saw risks are well known eg, kickback and leg injuries, but not for top handles only incidents, it may help new users. I'm not a climber myself but with so many S/H top handles it could tempt some users as a light saw. I assume the biggest risk is using it one handed with the free left hand going forward onto a running chain?

only prob - I find it difficult to read his posts - what's he got to say:lol: Heard of probs with the ms201t, so good time to buy one of the remaining ms200t FRJ is your man - you could have one be on your table tomorrow:thumbup1: