blazer

Feel it's time to buy a tacho for my saws, to get the best out of them with out the risk of damaging them. I have seen some techos with no connector leads others with. any recommended plus price etc - wife want to buy me something personal for Xmas:blushing: thanks in advance:thumbup1:

Just looked up the MS390 muffler outlet on stihl, and it shows x2 outlets one for US, AUS & one for peasants - does it make any difference. I'm into engineering but didn't quite get it - leave out screen & drill six holes (what size please) from the manifold or outlet side. My old MS390 is about 10yrs old, so I can go for it. It's always the same with me simple job and I will over complicate it. I have the MS390 and a 266XP always pick up the Husky. Many thanks:thumbup1:

When I worked in heavy engineering, most 'special' tools were made up, still have many. Well done:thumbup1:

She was only a fishmongers daughter but had crabs all over her plaice - that one:001_tt2: I do alot of squirrel shooting with my dogs picking up = loadsa squiga fleas. They have totally infested the dog and house in the past, real job to get rid of them. For some reason don't bit my son but give my wife and me a hard time, so now frontline the dogs and stopped cooking them up for the dogs. When combing the dog I dip the flea comb in boiling water, I often had 30 fleas per session, nasty things.

Looking at buying climbing boots but not seen any feedback on Arbortec Scafell yet, only came out in September anybody have any user comments?

Seasonal one - 'the Holly & the Ivy'

Hi Paul As a non tree climber myself, I have always gone with using designed safety equip for a job, aware ground boots are in a different league. Just wondered if climbers go for set designed climbing boots or just what they fancy, so I'm not sure about grip for tree climbing. (Thanks for giving the lad a break - doing ok:thumbup1:)

Son taking CS38 soon, most of the guys he's working with don't use climbing saw boots for work climbing, but not sure if he needs to buy designed Climbing saw boots to take the course, or advised to? (is it a bit like saw gloves - only used for courses) If so any recomendations? Thanks in advance

'Tie a yellow ribbon around the old oak tree' - just to get that one out of the way:thumbdown: Trying to remember:confused1: Roy Wood - get it on, with Kate's bush:001_tt2:

I wish I knew that a while ago, I would have bought one instead of the 460. Not that I'm unhappy about the 460. I assumed it was like Ford cars yrs ago when the 1.3L, 1.6L & 2L all had a big mark up price differential - simular spec, just for bigger pistons.

I don't get why make the 650 same weight as a 660 but less powwwwwer:thumbup1:

should be ok just don't ask for a bacon butty - if you go out there could you please bring me back a LC70 not too many holes:sneaky2:

As above - not my idea I saw it on an Aussie video a while ago, swop over some 50mm ratchet straps so you have a hook one end and an eye the other, and at least x2 wraps (with the metal bit at the back , it may swing around 180 deg if it fails, this way it will go forwards not into your teeth) I have used a couple of methods - the 'dog-tooth' is good but leave plenty at the back or it may fail early. I try to get one side cut out so for the last bit I only need to use the saw tip on one side only. I have made one up that works well I called it the 'T-cut'. Basicly: cut hinge - plunge behind hinge leaving a 2+" strip of wood, cut each side to leave a central 2 or 3" strip at rightangles to the hinge (hence the T) and slowly cut into the T untill the tree talks to you - then go for a walk. The last remaining strip of the T acts as a rope with fibres breaking under tension, acting as a time delay fuse - giving you plenty of time (if you are lucky). Ok it rips out some fibres into the truck but it's safe:thumbup1:

Hope this comparison hasn't come up before - if so pls cancel. Now the MS201 has been out for a while and the MS200 is still avaiable, besides the 'enviro bit' I just wondered if the MS201 is an improvement for reliability, service, user operation etc as the MS200 set the standard for so long:001_huh:

My son has just started as a groundie to a local company and is on 65/day, using there saws but has his own PPM.

My thoughts as well. I don't know whats happening about 'this' saw but my lad will try and get you some more work Spud:thumbup1:

I'm aware since my bike days of mixed fuel going off, I was at a race when I was given a tankfull as they wanted to use fresh fuel the 'next day' - but I have also left fuel mixed for say 3 months and been ok on older saws but not with my new saw

Thanks for the replies, this site is brill for a good responce:thumbup1: My son came home with out the saw, boss wanted to 'have-a-go' From what he said, the saw ran erratic with revs increasing - then stopped. the casing was very hot. they later restarted it but it often cut out on tick over when the brake was on. I think it's a fairly new saw, after the siezure it still has fairly good compression. Will update as I find out more. Thanks again.

Just had a text from my son working for a local tree company, to say one of their MS 441 saws has seized, he may bring it home for me tonight - great:confused1: Firstly is there any 'recomended' method of trying to move the piston. Secondly, if it frees up and the compression is ok to run? Thirdly, are you interested Spud - I don't have the time to sort it out ( I fancy doing more saw work but am too busy with the shoot)

Don't worry it's British humour - like on the TV few yrs ago showing pushing grannies off cliffs into the sea. Also the joke about washing parrots - worked ok survived the washing m/c untill it was wrung out

Keep them in your boot John, one prob around here is driving down snow packed hills, takes a bit longer fitting chains but I'm too old for winter sports. Yep they are a pain to fit sometimes but I used them alot for both mud/snow over the last 10 yrs.

Normal max speed for snowchains is 30 mph, bit of a noise when running on tarmac but I have'nt had any tyre probs for short distances. The normal snow condition of bare 3-rut system on country roads in the snow, where both 'share' the centre rut, at least with snowchains you can stay on the snow parts and if you go off you can get back on again.

About as technical as I can cope with after a long day - many thanks:thumbup1:

Sorry it's me again, just when you think all my maintenace is done I spotted an Inner CV boot split on the L200 (03). It's job I haven't done before so need a few tips please. I assume remove the upper/lower suspension joints to allow the unit to come out and undo the x4 inner flange bolts but do I need any special tools to strip the CV joint to fit a new rubber boot. Thanks in advance:thumbup1:

I have only heard of adding Paraffin - I guess today some may use veggie oil??? I used to work for an old farmer in the 63 winter and he would surround his Major tractor with boards & rugs and place a paraffin stove underneath, then wrap a rope around the pulley and we would 'tug-of -war' start it - worked. I have see film of guys with a burning paper torch working it along the fuel pipes to unfreeze. I'm trying to sort out maintenance/tips before the freeze starts - memories of trying to fix my motorbike in snow with a candle in a jam jar - never again