doobin

That’s impressive, which model?

Yes, I find a hydro top link is invaluable on almost every implement. Just look at the finish on these contours- you just set it to float and it follows beautifully.

No, still need to do that! Plus the neighbour wants a load doing also.

Midhurst here. 07765 776454 Not sure what you mean by ‘decent’, it’s 16” capacity.

Interesting. The regs are deffo worth reading through. I think I was confusing the small trailer exemption for licensing pre-boris trailer giveaway. Most on here will run under the 100km from base, tools and equipment for use by driver in course of his work exemption. Edit- sadly I don’t think this hypothetical baker would be exempt. Especially as driving the van to make his deliveries would be his main/only job for the day. Luckily bread is light!

No tacho required.

Tacho would only apply if over 3.5t gross weight vehicle, or if over 4250kg with trailer and not covered under an exemption. For example, the village baker's 3.5t delivery van doesn't need a tacho. And it's 'hire or reward'....

No, but my missus does…

Not a brand I’m familiar with. What will you be running it behind? Most flail collectors will do a decent job on light grass and relatively heavy brambles. Its thick scrub or thick rank grass that will test them.

Found a couple of pics. Not the biggest timber but you get the idea.

My missus is happy cause I’ve used a few scraps to ‘poshen up’ our kitchen cabinets! With the grapple you wouldn’t have the weight of the winch, so much work well? Mine on a 38hp AC is a good fit. Riko.

Looks a monster alpine, what is it? I use a skidding grapple behind my alpine, it's handy to be able to transfer a lot of the log's weight to the back wheels. If it's milling lengths, they will be short enough that you only drag 'just the tip' (ooeer missus!) along the ground. Works for me. I've got some beech I left spalting to mill later today that I extracted like this. I've not used a logging arch but I'd imagine it take a bit of a while to rig it all up? Probably ace for longer extraction routes or timebr lengths though.

If I had a ticket for everything I do and every machine I own and operate, I’d probably have to do a month worth of refresher courses per year!

You know I’ve got no tickets, right? 🤣

I like the Stihl professional depth gauges, and for the actual stock removal, an m12 Milwaukee ‘power file’. Technically my grinder can be set to lower the rakers, but it’s such a faff involving changing the discs, angles, chain and depth stops that I don’t bother. The power file is magic. I use ceramic belts on it, 60 grit removes depth gauges quickly at a nice gentle ramp and you soon get the hang of how much pressure and how long. Check every few teeth with the stihl gauge. I’d say it’s just as controllable as a file, if not more so as we all know how easily the file can skip on hard rakers or the opposite ones. It’s got two speed ranges, both variable. You can even set the belt to go the other way to push the sparks away from you. A really well designed tool. A 120 grit ceramic belt is ideal for dressing the bar. Brilliant tool for this kind of thing, it’s much quicker, easier and cheaper on consumables than a file. If you want to get finicky, a surface conditioning belt will make the bar rails factory smooth to finish off. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/milwaukee-m12-fbfl13-0-12v-13mm-brushless-belt-sander-file-body-only

I’d deffo burn rather than feed a chipper if your site and location allows for this. Much quicker overall. but as far as cheap pto driven chippers go, the Rock machinery is ok. Similar but better than the woodland mills (can’t remember how, maybe more feed rollers?). Not sure about leylandii but can’t see it being a problem, it’s nice and straight. It’s passable run at 540rpm,but behaves much more like a proper chipper at 1000rpm. On this 38hp tractor we were feeding some fairly gnarly 4” bits of oak through and it didn’t seem to struggle. Feed speed is set with a hydraulic adjuster on the side. This is 5” capacity, and the next model up would be too much for my tractors to lift.

Here you go: 6x6m = 36m2 36x0.2m deep = 7.2m3 of stone 7.2 x 1.8 (that's tonnes per cubic metre for granite scalpings) = 13 tonnes. Worth getting a price for it delivered in bulk from an 8 wheeler. Round here it's £35/tonne, which compares favourably with £50 for 800kg in bulk bags from a builders merchant. If you are close to a quarry then it will be a lot cheaper.

Fit the largest Honda copy you can squeeze into the space. As stated the gx160 is a waste of time- they are for cement mixers, nothing more.

Clamshell grab looks good on her.

With 1800 hours and over four years hard graft under her belt, I’m still going to keep running this old girl to allow me to finance other kit- a new alpine tractor. I’ve decided that if you have the work for it, a new machine is a no brainer, and I’ve the whole of January booked on nature reserve cut and collect works. Here she is hard at work on yesterdays job- I’m especially amazed at the lumps she managed to lift over that hedge at full reach! A few 3.8s to feed the mill. Wind stopped play yesterday so back to the yard today to fit a new clamshell grab I bought for her- have a lot of cut and collect waste to handle in the spring.

Running a mixed fleet I hear you. But there’s limits, and grab and flail work is some of the hardest work you can put a machine through. You’ll blow a pipe every day on a thirty year old machine once you get the oil hot with a flail. I don’t regret any of my finance purchases but I’m in a rich area, so at the rates around here and when interest rates were on the floor, it was a no brainer.

I wouldn’t fancy beating that vintage about with a grab and flail personally.

I’ve been amazed what my auger mounted cone splitter on my e27 will split. id forget feeding it through a processor afterwards though. Just doesn’t work. You have very little control over how it splits. Look at a big horizontal splitter instead.

Restricted access is common in forestry- plenty run rigid trucks but ten tons is still a part load.

If buying new, this firm build them to all budgets and specs. I’ve two of their units. A petrol pressure washer is nothing more than an engine, pump, hose and nozzles. If you use a firm who build them (at very reasonable prices too) then you will get a good setup that works well together from the get go. Avoid any brands who use ‘max pressure’ as their main/only selling point. Jetmac JETMAC.CO.UK Honda Pressure washers and much more