Big J
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Everything posted by Big J
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What ended up costing more - the holiday or the therapy afterwards? I'm terrible for road rage. I'm very polite as a driver, but if that isn't reciprocated, I get very angry. Similarly, drivers who drive in dismal, rainy twilight without lights. Separate thread perhap!
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Exactly the same happened to me a couple of hours ago. On a suburban dual carriageway and a police car on blues was signalling to turn right across my lane. I stopped and the car behind me almost went into the back of me, having not expected me to stop. Those 30 seconds could be the difference between life and death to someone.
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Would have been superb if you'd not stopped for them: "Pursuing suspect in a.....erm....blinking great tractor truck thing! Speed approximately 30mph"
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Excellent work Tom - I remember you mentioning this beech a few weeks back.
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Is it though? As an arborist, you are a tree service professional. If you have a legitimate concern regarding the removal of a tree, then what else can you do? You don't have any actual legal power, so it makes sense to contact the person that does. Just my two cents.
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Haha! Small world eh? I just googled the model and that was one of only a couple of pages that came up.
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Got myself a 1989 Mitsubishi Shogun yesterday. Enjoy driving it so much I might keep it fully road legal! Picked it up in Plymouth and drove it straight back to Edinburgh - 478 miles. Will post pictures. Jonathan
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5 tons of beech and 7 tons of ash for free ( Glasgow )
Big J replied to Czlowiek Drzewo's topic in Firewood forum
Martyn - tried to reply via PM but your inbox is full! Used to use kettlebells a bit in my younger days. KB snatches were always my favourite. If you are looking for a cheap local supplier, my friend runs a strength equipment business in Edinburgh, but lives in Uddingston. Strength Shop Might be your cheapest bet for kitting out a gym. Jonathan -
Lots of snow I hope. Last year we had no 4x4s and got stuck a fair bit (ungritted country estate). This year we have two, so should be fine. It really was gloriously beautiful last winter
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5 tons of beech and 7 tons of ash for free ( Glasgow )
Big J replied to Czlowiek Drzewo's topic in Firewood forum
PM sent. -
Love the questions at the bottom too!
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True, but I suppose that TPOs don't cover all such trees.
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Absolutely - that wasn't missed. If the client has made up their mind to take a tree down, there is little that can be done, even if it is unjustified. You might as well be the one to do it professionally and sympathetically so best use is made of the timber. Echoing Mark's question, did any of it make it to a mill?
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Huge shame to take that down
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Beautiful photos!
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I find that the alpine butterfly can be a pain to undo, even when you use hand operated pulley systems. I need to give a midline bowline a try too.
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Can't help with the purchase, but here is a little bit of info regarding the saw: Bois sawmill sawers of native hardwoods:sawmilling page
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Anyone need good wide Elm as far south as Northampton?
Big J replied to Big J's topic in Milling Forum
Still plenty of Elm left, though the best of the kiln dried stuff has gone. I still have alot of 1.5 and 2 inch boards (the thinner boards being wider and the thicker boards narrower). Also, lots of Elm in the round to be sold either as the log for you to mill or slabbed to your requirements. I'm not going to be bringing it down personally, but palletline seem to be quite reasonable, if a little inept at times. Jonathan -
Thanks for all the responses! Tommer - I wasn't able to get the pdf to open, though I'm not sure why. Wadkin - the small scale dehumidifier kiln is a sort of stop gap for the next couple of years whilst I expand. Plans are for a more advances set up even when I move to my next yard, though it might remain basically a dehumidification kiln. Mike Dempsey - my neighbour at my workshop has the small sauno, though I have yet to see it in action. Very intriguing though, and I did read a little about it. Jph - I used to have the old Arrowsmith Junior, but found it to be underpowered for the size of container that I use. Jonathan
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I was hoping to find out a little information regarding the use of a vehicle solely for forestry. For the felling work I undertake on the estate, I require a 4x4 but don't want to go to the full (capital expenditure and running) cost of buying a conventional 4x4. I am interested in buying a vehicle and registering it for forestry. My understanding of it so far is this (please correct me when and where I'm wrong!): * Forestry vehicles are MOT exempt - is there any form of test in it's place? * Forestry vehicles qualify for NIL road tax. * Forestry vehicles can run on red diesel. * Forestry vehicles can go on public roads to a limited degree but only from one woodland to another. Any additional information would be hugely appreciated and I am interested in any reasonable 4x4 should anyone have one quite cheaply. Jonathan
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As far as I best understand, the dehumidification process is a gentle one, but drying stresses can still occur, predominantly from case hardening if there is a moisture gradient (say the surface of the board is 7% MC and the core is 13%). I would really like to try to get rid of that gradient but the only way that I can see to continue to dry the centre of the board without overdrying the surface is to increase the humidity. If I can get the humidity to the point where equilibrium moisture content is about 10%, I might have a good chance of getting a consistent 10% MC throughout the board. gensetsteve - good thinking on the sauna unit - I'll have a look on the bay. Jonathan
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Thankyou for the update Dave - sounds like things are going well and I wish you all the best for your recovery.
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The question is, is it worth the hundreds of pounds spent on the CS30+31 if all you are going to do is firewood? I'd save your money, find a local cutter/tree surgeon and pay them for a half day's tutorial and use the saved money to buy a better saw and good PPE. Jonathan
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Quick question regarding kilning. I'm currently reading about how to reduce drying stresses in kiln dried timber and a short period of steaming at the end of the cycle seems to be the best way to address case hardening and achieve a consistent moisture content (no moisture gradient). The problem is that the descriptions and models for steaming apply to commercial kilns with operating temperatures of 100 celcius or more. How could I apply a steaming cycle to a dehumidification kiln. I cannot far exceed 35 degrees without damaging the fans and dehumidifier. Apparently the steaming need only last a short time, raising the relative humidity to the point where equilibrium moisture content of the timber will naturally settle at 10%. Any ideas are hugely appreciated!
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I actually find that picture pretty depressing. Can you imagine the working conditions these guys have? Not even any ear defenders.
