jrose
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Everything posted by jrose
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I got one yesterday, not really used it yet so can't comment on performance
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It doesn't have the classic stihl half choke setting, only full choke And bounces back to on automatically when you turn it off like a husky
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Spare krab and prussik in case of rescue or to use the other end of my rope 2x tape slings, so many uses Sometimes a pinto pulley for false anchor or redirect First aid kit and knife
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Can't see poll on android app , but I like zipped neck. Really rate the patagonia base layers, best ones I've found out there for a reasonable price
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Thanks for all the replies everyone, interesting reading. looks like pinto tie off is the way to go then, I'll give it a try tomorrow
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Hi matty Here is the thread I found it in - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/srt-single-rope-technique/45781-srt-anchors.html I can see it being useful, but even more so if instead of the butterfly I had a Bowline or fisherman's on a krab, with a throwline clipped into that to the ground. That way, if I wanted to switch to Dbrt I in theory wouldn't even need to strop in, just clip krab to harness and remove wrench. Alternatively, I could descend SRT and then use throwline to retrieve. Of course I could be being stupid, hence asking more knowledgeable people on here
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Hi all, I'm slowly getting my head around SRT, so far have just been using a running bowline and then climbing back to anchor point and descending DdRT. Browsing through old threads on here, I was looking at this anchor point and the description: "both legs of rope inserted through the ring and alpine tied below. ring enables smooth retrieval. can switch between srt and dbrt simply by removing the alp bfly.dont have to remove hitch system to retrieve." My question, is it suitable to tie a Bowline or other termination knot with krab inserted instead of the alpine butterfly, so that to switch to dbrt you just have to clip in then remove RW? Or would a Bowline not stand the downwards pressure from the ring when loaded SRT? Thanks a lot Joe
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T540xp vs MS201T (not used a cm version yet) - MS201T blows the husky clear out of the water in my opinion. 550xp vs 261 - slightly more difficult to judge, both about same on power but deliver it in different ways. Husky revvy saw, ideal for snedding but stihl has the edge when it comes to pulling a 15" bar through hardwood. 560xp vs 362 - see above. Not used a ms441 or either of the big huskys enough to comment o the rest.
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I'll go with e4
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It's very much a personal preference, I had a length of tachyon which I really didn't get on with, found it hard to grip especially in the wet and it put me off 11.7mm ropes for a while. Have just got a length of Blue Tongue, and my opinion has changed, what a lovely rope
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I hope it's not real, but I'll keep a spare prusik on me just in case! I agree that if someone cut themselves badly 50' up, odds are slim that even the best climber would get there in time. However, if they suffered a broken bone, concussion or the like, a rescue situation isn't out of the question. So having a prussik ether to attach yourself to them, or to lower both of you out of the tree is a good idea IMO, along with a spare krab, first aid kit and knife on your harness
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Totally agree that no matter how good a climber you are on a prussik/blakes, once you're used to it you will be more efficient and less strain on your body with one of the setups mentioned on here
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I moved over to a hitch climber and VT pretty soon after starting to climb, I've owned a spider jack and zigzag and tried a lock jack, but didn't get on with them so have stuck to my hitch climber pulley! Recently brought a rope wrench and trying to get my head round SRT, trouble is most times I'll just stick to DdRT as it's what I know. Always have a spare prussik on my harness though, in case I wan to use the other end of my rope or for rescuing someone
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Just to say thanks to all at gustharts for excellent service as usual, the rope I ordered wasn't in stock but they let me know ASAP and replaced it with a different one arrived today, all setup now ready for tomorrow (or possibly a call out tonight if weather worsens!) Thanks again Joe
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Ex army kit bag holds my rope, lanyard, harness and other bits and bobs with room to spare. Only problem is that its NATO green, so if you cover it in brash you have to do a bit of searching to find it again!
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Thanks for the info Tommy, to be honest I've never had a problem with the eye to eye moving on the ultra O. I do use my lanyard off my bridge most of the time, and with my previous krab I was finding it would occasionally misalign in the top hole of HC, hence why I got a rhino. Not sure if it will work or not yet, will report back Butch, I use a double fisherman's knot on the ends
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Out of interest, why? I've always used ultra O under hitch climber, this is the first rhino I've used (brand new along with rope). I was going to use it on the end, just because my previous ISC krabs I did have misalign once or twice on top hole...
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My nice new lanyard arrived on Friday thanks to gustharts, just stuck it all together ready for next week! 6m tachyon with Marlow viper hitch cord, ultra O and hitch climber, DMM Rhino on end.
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Where are you?
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I'm using the app so can't see poll, will try and remember to go on computer later and do it
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I brought a rope wrench, had a couple of climbs at weekends and can see a lot of advantages, although there are disadvantages as well. For me at the moment fully Drt with hitch climber & vt, will keep trying SRT and see if I can get the hang of it
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AFAG guidance is 5m minimum if I remember correctly. Mick Burns has a pretty good generic risk assessment he has made available on his site, worth a read at least http://www.chainsawsculpture.co.uk/riskassess.htm
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I can't see a poll option (on arbtalk app), but I've always used a fisherman's because I like being able to adjust the length. For what its worth, if I was to buy an eye to eye cord I'd probably go for 90cm
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If I'm guessing blind... Is it a stihl ms290 farm boss
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What chainsaw?
