jamesd
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Everything posted by jamesd
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Thanks, it was only milled about 1 month ago Is it still to late? As the wood dries will the spalting go through all of the wood if I am too late?
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Thanks for the replies. The stickers are 1/2" thick, if i were to put them on their edge it would make them 12 thick would that be better? They are stacked in a barn with a reasonable amount of air flow, but as you say probably not enough but it is the only place i know i can securely store them. Is it worth treating them though?
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I checked over a few of my stacks of timber that i milled this winter to see how they are doing and noticed the Beech i milled has developed a lot of white fungi. (not entirely sure it is fungi or what it is for that matter so put up a picture for you) The oak i milled however is fine. Should i have treated this wood with wykabor? If i treat the wood with it will it still be ok to use as say a kitchen worksurface, i presume the wood is fine to handle once the wykabor has soaked in? If i do need to treat the wood would it be worthwhile scraping the white stuff of before treating or just put the wykabor straight over the top of it? I appreciate any advice you can give me! I don't want all taht wood to go on the fire!
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Thanks for the info! Seems like they are good saws then. Its a shame none of you are closer would have liked to see one up an running. The one i'm interested in hasn't been used for probably 2/3 years so its bit rusty!
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ok cheers might try and get in touch with him. I don't suppose you know of one still being used anywhere? They must be quite old machines now...
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cheers, i don't know a george herridge unfortunately. Is that kings worthy near winchester?
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Does anyone know anything about or have any experience of using a forestor pto driven band saw? Unfortunately i don't know the exact model of the one i've seen for sale. Its got the long benches either side of the blade as well.
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I think you handled that well.
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Ok thanks i will go for that then. Where do you normally buy yours from? I was thinking of going to axminster for it. On another note, before i go ahead and peg it all together do you think i need another short stretcher closer to the bench top? The second picture shoes the bench upside down with the stretchers that will be about 4inches from the ground. The top is made up of 4" thick Beech that has 3 stainless rods holding it together. So i would have thought there would have been enough strength there to not need another short stretcher? just wanted an opinion from someone who has more experience than me!
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Would it be ok for external use? The bench will be in a shed so will get exposed to the elements a bit. I could do with something as hard wearing as possible, and water resistant.
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Apologies last photo some reason is upside down!
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So i'm nearly at the stage where i'm thinking about putting some sort of oil to protect the wood a bit. I'm just wandering which would be best to use? I want something to bring out the natural colours and grain in the wood but not change its normal colour at all (i.e not a coloured stain) There are so many different options on the market now i'm not sure which to go for but these seem to be the main ones: Osmo oil Danish oil Tung oil Which one would be best to use for the sort of finish i want to achieve, i'm new to wood work so any advice is appreciated! Here are a few pictures of my work in progress!
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Looks like a innovative way of making them! havn't had chance to do anymore wood work this week. But now i've seen this i'll hopefully do some over the weekend..
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Thanks for the reply, i'll give that article a read. I think i'll go for a 10mm dowel, my other question is how far in should the dowel be from the opening of the mortice? most of the tenons are about 2 to 2.5 inches long so i was going to go for a 1" inset for the dowel (which would be the middle of the tenon) or should the dowel be closer to the shoulder of the tenon?
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Thanks for the pictures. How much offset did you give the holes on the tenons for drawboarding? You used smaller dowels than i am intending on using, did you go right through other side of the leg with the peg? did you have any pegs break on you?
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I presume by "something that fine" you mean a smaller piece of work? the legs are 4inches by 4inches so i thought they were quite large. I have already cut all the mortises in the legs so the stretchers meet inside at 45degrees. There was a reason for this, i want all the stretchers on the same level so can build a shelf on top of them. I'm still not sure i will drawboard the joints, as i am a bit worried about breaking a dowel, I might drawboard them but only by a tiny bit (i.e 1 or 2 millimetres). All i know i want is a strong joint at the end of it so the stretchers are kept tight to the legs, the wood is still a bit green as its only a year old (its Beech btw) Would not drawboarding the joint make any difference to how strong/tight the joint will be in the future? I will go down the route of using a plate to make my dowels as this seems to be a good way to make them. Any other words of wisdom for me before i decide? ps thanks for your advice!
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Thought i'd pop up a couple of images of what the pegs are going to be used for. I'm not sure whther to use 10 or 12mm pegs though, there is less room the 12mm pegs to be used, but they will less likely to break as i drive them in. I'm doing drawboard mortise and tenons to make sure i get a snug fit as well. As you can see in the picture there will be two pegs for the long stretcher (the two lines show the thickness of the peg) and 1 peg for the shorter stretcher (the circle in pencil on the leg) The first photo shows 10mm pegs, the second is the 12mm. Although there isn't a lot of difference using 12mm pegs would leave a lot of room for error. For reference the width of the tennon is 90mm. So in that 90mm three 12mm pegs would have to go through the leg. Would using the 12mm pegs reduce the strength in the leg too much? Apologies for the long post and strange questions, I've got this far and don't want to muck it up when i put it all together!!!
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Thanks for all the help guys, I'm leaning towards making myself a plate out of steel or buying one of these: Veritas Dowel Former - Dowel Cutters - Pocket Hole Joinery & Dowelling - Drilling - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery
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I need some oak dowels to peg my mortise and tenons and was wandering whether or not people buy them or make their own? If so how do you make them or where can you buy them from? I think axminster is the only place i know that sells long dowels. I don't want massive ones, say a bit thicker than a pencil and 6inches long. Pretty new to woodworking so apologies if its a stupid question! Many thanks, James.
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Don't mean to hijack this thread but how did you find a place to buy? I've been looking for two years now. Asking around people, signing onto various estate agents etc etc with no joy at all. Any tips you would be willing to let me know about finding somewhere would be most appreciated!!!!
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Thanks for the info, does it not have a higher outfeed shoot than that? or can it only shred the material onto the floor?
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How do you get on with the eliet machines? I've been toying with the idea of getting a shredder for hedge cuttings etc. I suppose there is no need to worry about stones etc going in there because its a shredder rather than a chipper? I'm thinking about making compost using the shreddings etc, what sort of materiel/shred do you get left with after shredding?
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Thanks for the help, what chisels do you use for making the mortice? proper mortise chisels? I like these...... Mukoumachi Nomi | FINE TOOLS
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Do you use a router for a lot of your wood working joints? or still do it by hand?
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I think a chain morticer would be a bit to much money and in reality, wouldn't get used that often. Where as i f i had a router i would use it for other things as well i guess. The deepest mortice would be around 4inches so if i could do 3" with a router then finish it off with a drill and chisel i would probably end up with a neater mortice in the end. Any recommendations on which router to go for?
