jamesd
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Everything posted by jamesd
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Do you know if they have heated handle versions?
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I haven't had anything to do with echo suff. I would worry a bit about parts availability etc with them.
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Thanks for the reply, How long have you had them? any issues at all with them?
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I keep putting off getting a new small saw but its about time i bit the bullet and just decide which one to go for. At the moment i use a 461 for, well pretty much everything (its on a 20" bar) but i've got a load of small jobs coming up where its just a bit overkill for. Things like coppicing and small fells etc etc I'm a stihl man at heart but I am very tempted by a 550xpg but I keep seeing stories coming up on here about reliability issues etc etc which puts me off a bit. Would this saw be a good choice? I wouldn't use it all that often but when i do i want it to be reliable! Would this saw be any good for coppicing hazel or is it still too big? My other option is the 261 but i havn't heard a lot about them really. Or my third option is to look into the non pro saws, but again i don't know much about them. I have pretty good stihl and husqvarna dealers close by so want to stick with them if i'm honest. Any advice would be great! James.
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That seems a lot better than paying 16odd quid for the one that fits the ransomes
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Yeah plus postage comes to around the £130 mark seems a bit steep to me though? Is it always worth buying genuine filters? I found these on ebay for the ransomes: Ransomes Highway 213D Filter Kit, Jacobsen, Air, Oil, Fuel, Hydraulic | eBay They are a lot cheaper than genuine ones!
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Got to service my Iseki sxg19 and ransomes highway ride ons in the next couple of weeks and have just been pricing up a new filter set for both of them. Genuine kubota filter sets for each machine comes in at roughly £150 per set! Thats air,fuel,oil and hydraulic filters. So with new oil I reckon its going to cost me around the £320 mark to service them both! Is it worth using genuine filters? Or can i buy some none genuine ones from somewhere else? I don't do a lot of hours on them during the mowing season maybe 8hours each a fortnight. Also what oil should i get? The dealer always gives me 15w40 but looking in the manuals it says SAE10W-30 for both machines.
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How do you rate the saw guide? was thinking about going for the free angle one does it make much of a difference for getting your cuts square etc? I've got quite a few large 4x4's to cut the ends square and don't want to keep redoing them! Also would it be any good for helping to cut out tenons? James
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Cheers for the reply guys I found this: [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/WYKABOR-10-BORON-WOOD-TREATMENT/dp/B00NFO7U60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455471942&sr=8-1&keywords=wykabor]WYKABOR 10 BORON WOOD TREATMENT 5L - FOR WOOD AND MASONRY TREATMENT (MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ONLY): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WzgKGiaVL.@@AMEPARAM@@41WzgKGiaVL[/ame] Will this be ok to use on freshly cut boards? (Green Timber) Then they should be protected for life?
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Thank you for the reply, yes that explains it perfectly! My only issue with using the tusked tenons for the short stretchers is that, like you said the legs would have to be inset a bit to avoid me catching them with my legs etc all the time. This would mean i would loose the legs as a potential clamping surface, thats why I'd like to keep them flush with the top. I've been looking into the idea of "knockdown bolts" so that they can be tightened as the wood shrinks. Here is a link of what they are: (basically a bolt and a barrel nut) Veritas Tools - Workbench Accessories - Special Bench Bolts This would mean they could be tightened as the wood shrinks. I would use these on all the short rails/stretchers and possibly even the long ones. I would use a mortice and tenon for the top as we discussed earlier. Does this sound like a good compromise/idea? Thanks for all the help! James.
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Does anyone know where I can get some from? I've been looking and can't seem to find it. I've only ever milled Oak in the past and have recently milled a lot of Beech for a Bench and I still have a lot left over, and am told it will need to treating to prevent any insect attack and this is the stuff to use? (i will treat all the bits for the bench before i start putting it together) I'm going to be stickering and stacking it all in a barn and then it will probably be used for furniture I presume this treatment is suitable for use on indoor furniture etc? I might even use some of it for a kitchen work surface.... Not sure yet though! Cheers, james.
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Thanks for the reply alec, just a few questions regarding your post. I've got 4x4 for the legs what do you mean by pull them in a bit from the ends? Do you mean the end of the Bench? I think the top will be made from 4" thick boards hopefully either two or three, they will be cut as close to the centre of the tree, but not including the pith that will be the best i can do as regards getting them as close to quarter sawn. I hope they won't move to much? When you say leave a gap to the outside for the tenons on the legs to fit the top piece on what exactly do you mean? I thought wood generally will only shrink in width more than length? so would i just need to leave more of a gap in the mortise/tenon that allows the top to shrink width ways? Would you use tusked mortice and tenon joints for all the stretchers? (both length and width) I hope this makes sense! I might be overthinking this a bit...
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I was thinking using those or just standard mortice and tenons. And then wedged tusked tenons for both top and bottom short rails?
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Thanks for the detailed reply, Is it possible for you to find some pictures of exactly the joints you mean for the leg stretchers? I think i understand what you mean but not 100% certain. But from what i can gather use stubby full width tenons for the short leg stretchers (for the width of the bench) and tusked mortice and tenons for the long stretchers? As for the top, i'm still uncertain as to what to do its either laminate a load of 2x4's together or cut two 4" thick 1foot wide boards as close to quarter sawn as i can get and either just put them down or laminate them together as well. Which would you say would be the best option? Thanks again for the help! its most appreciated!
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Is this the sort of stuff i need to protect the Beech from wood worm etc?: https://www.twistfix.co.uk/wood-treatment-wykabor-10
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I was thinking of using drawboard mortice and tenons as the wood is still green. I suppose the advantage of using the tusk mortice and tenons would be you can just tap the peg down some more if the joint moves? I'm not sure how a blind tusk mortice and tenon works though? Never seen one before. I'm a complete novice at this btw!
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Cheers for the help, just one other question what size rails did you use to join the legs together? 4x2's?
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I like the look of those benches by chris schwarz, its pretty similar to what i've been thinking of making. As the wood is still Green would it be worth making up the frame from the posts (which hopefully won't move too much) and then dry the wood out for the top? Or should i just construct it all together and hope for the best? I would like to know the moisture content of the wood as it was felled last year, its only now that i've have got the chance to start milling it!
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Cheers for the info have you got chris schwarz's other book?: [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Workbench-Design-Christopher-Schwarz/dp/1440310408]Workbench Design: Amazon.co.uk: Christopher Schwarz: 0035313651564: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51asqIxk1QL.@@AMEPARAM@@51asqIxk1QL[/ame] I've been thinking about getting that one as it has a few more design ideas in it. I've been thinking about buying a moisture meter for the wood to see how dry it is can anyone recommend one?
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Thanks again for the reply. Do you know where the best place to buy wykabor? As for the construction of the workbench I was going to use pegged mortice and tenons. The top I was going to laminate a load of 3x2 Beech lengths and maybe one or two oak lengths (for some sort of pattern on the top) and then use a mortice and tenon to fit this to the frame. This is basically what my design will be: Workbench Build – FINISHED! | rybo perhaps without the leg vice though. Are there any other joints i could use to minimize any movement? The bench will be 6foot long, I was going to have six legs (i.e two in the middle) will four be enough? I'm not sure how strong Beech is compared to Oak. Any advice is much appreciated!
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Cheers for the replies guys just a couple more questions though. It will only used indoors so should work well then, what could i use to protect against insects though? i was thinking about varnishing it when constructed with something not sure what though? Will it be Ok to use the wood relatively Green? the tree has been down for a year and the stem has been kept in an open barn (where I am milling it up at the moment). Thanks for the advice, i appreciate it!
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I've been milling a bit of Beech today and wondered is it any good for making posts? I've milled up a few 4x4's today for a work bench i'm going to make when i get round to it, will they be OK or will they move a lot as they dry? Cheers, James.
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Mostly grass/ landscape maintenance. i.e hedges/shrubs grass leaves etc etc
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Just wondering if anyone on here works in the Hampshire area? Every now and then i need help with maintenance contracts as i'm only a small firm and just wondered if anyone was doing sub contracting in my area? Or is getting a part time employee the better way to go? Any advice would be welcome! Cheers.
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I need some sort of lighting for my workshop and was thinking about buying some site lighting but I always find them a bit too bright Is there some sort of alternative? This is the sort of thing I'm thinking about getting: Anyone use something similar or could advise me where to get a decent set? Tripod Site Light Double 1000W 240V - Toolstation Cheers
