Bolt

It there a vid of SWB brushing his teeth? I must have missed that one. Keep posting...... (its better than doing paperwork)

has the added benifit of allowing your groundsman to lower you from the tree following a calamity (useful if you aint too sure of your potential "rescuers" climbing ability)

......'course if you bring both, you could cook the bacon on the shovel.........

Is it better to bring bacon on sunday, or a shovel d'you think?

Read up on assessment schedules, if the have any questions just ask. You can also look at the manuals that come with chainsaws, they contain loads of clear instructions for saw maintenance and tree felling. If you havent got a manual, you should be able to download them from stihl / Husq websites

We are talking about climbing for fun though (have to type fun cos I cant spell recreationally:blushing:). I have climbed trees on my own all over the country, some for the great view, some because the just look like good trees, some cos I'm hiding to confuse the dog. It has to be said though, Consider what could go wrong, Know your limits, Consider each action. Of course, it is better fun with a group...........lots of mature trees you say?.........

all the same, best of luck

.....or maybe clean the oily muck out from inside the clutch drum (although probably what TMT reckoned, worn clutch parts) First I would clean, then adjust carb settings, then start replacing bits.

I have done training for Kingswood in the past. A big chunk of their work is resettlement work. They are well set up for this type of training, and if you go with them, you will be on a course with a bunch of lads in the same boat. Last time I was with them, not only did they do training, but also a bit of work experiance as well. I would go for it and give it your best shot, you may like this kind of work, you may turn out to not be so keen. Either way you wont know until you have been doing it for a few weeks. One or two little climbs wont tell you if its your cup of tea. I can think of loads of lads who have been hopeless and ready to quit for the first few days of climbing, then suddenly they get the bug and their away. All the best

try this web address... TSO Online Bookshop - Safety at Street Works and Road Works: A Code of Practice ... should work (but no guarentee as i'm no computer wizz kid)

turns out if you put your laptop on its side to view videos, you get some strange looks from those around you! worth the wait to see the cameraman / rope pulling posse enveloped by debris.

if you are in a private front garden and the owner has been briefed by you, nothing more than a groundsman should be nessessary!

If your work may affect the public anywhere (park, open space, carpark, right of way) you have a duty of care not to endanger them (never underestimate the public's ability to do unspeakably daft things), so signs and cones are a minimum. If its part of the public highway (road or pavement) you have not only do you have the same duty of care, but signs and cone placement must be overseen by someone with NRSWA training.

We live in an all inclusive society these days, you can get a ticket for anything

am i confused, or should you have filled in a few cheques along the way?

call your local Ag college or forestry training provider. they are doing them all the time. Some call the couses NRSWA, some call it chapter 8 and some call it SLAG (signing lighting and guarding).

think i prefered the look of the blank canvas (they got mewps in tenerife?)

2 high lifts should be fine. You have also mentioned a winch (+ strops, shackles, maybe a snatchblock for fun) make sure the rated pull of the winch is less than the SWL of everything you attach to it (although your instructor will cover all this). Bear in mind though, that a winch may be included in the training, but will it also be available for the assessment? your assessor is under no obligation to provide a winch, and may well stop your assessment if you turn up for assessment expecting to use his! If the assessor or training provider has agreed to provide a winch, make sure you ase fully aware of how to operate that type before tha assessment (for instance, can you get the tirfor cable in and out? Have a ball, 32 is loads better than 31!

hope you have a great time. Is it the training, the assessment or the training and assessment you are doing?

Least favourite has to be lengths of very dead whippy yew going into the chipper. First they whack you on the hand as the rollers gets hold of them, then they whip up your arse as you turn away running and squealing like a girl.

If its a log supply thats wanted, I would just plant Ash. Ticks all the boxes. Easy to establish, good growth rate, happy in UK conditions, Smells nice when you cut it, smooth bark ony your hands when you handle it, easy to split and burns like a good 'un (especially if you an impatient seasoner (yery low moisture content I am told). Of couse, you would be wise to see whats already growing in the hedges. If there is no ash already about, maybe you should ignore the above.

The best stick has to be hazel, with the best thinness to length ratio you can get (needs to be about 2 metres long) If you whip it back and forth really quick, you can get it so the tip moves in a mirror image of your hand, but the middle doesn’t move at all. I recon there a 3 benefits to this Firstly you can impress the kids that you are cleverer than you are by talking about standing waves, second harmonics and all that stuff, secondly, the “Boocha-boocha-bootcha” sounds a bit like a distant Chinook – possibly to coolest of all the helicopters (but not those Chinooks that legend has they keep hidden in a hanger in Cornwall somewhere because they can only fly when its sunny) – and lastly, if you can find yourself a nice proud thistle, you can demonstrate the basics of sectional dismantling by reducing back its leaves, and then popping them of at the stem, then (once its skinned neatly) taking the stem down bit by bit. I wonder if hazel sticks were the inspiration for the strimmer?

I did use one of those Husq338 saws for a bit (trying to rebel from the 020 deathgrip) Workmates ripped the micky out of me, mainly because the saw didn't sound butch enough. They christened the thing Luxy due to a) Husqvana being owned by electrolux at the time and B) it sounding like a kitchen appliance. The major drawback there was that if you shouted down to you groundie to stop chipping and fuel "Luxy" up, you ran the risk of seeing them disappearing off in the 4x4 to refuel that instead.

33 post on a thread about sticks? There is certainly some weirdness going on around here. I think I’ll stick around for a bit. What it is that keeps me awake, pondering at night, is the issue of names, particularly saw names. When I started, the saw of choice for climbers was an 020, pronounced “oh twenty”. Short and snappy like. Anyone who’s only been about a few years has no idea what you’re talking about. These days, when shouting down to (I mean conversing with) your rookie groundsman, you have to refer to it as an “em ess twohundred tee” if you wish to stand any hope of getting it tied on / refulled / replaced. It doesn’t exactly roll of the tongue (what on earth were Stihl thinking of?) Not long after the 020 got its name change (along with fancy filler caps that didn’t really work to start with) the lad I was working with at the time christened it a “twenty oh tee”, which was a term i kind of liked, although it did remind me a little of that Nic Kershaw song of similar name. Now, putting aside the lad I worked with in Wales, who insisted on calling his saw Sasha, are there any better terms for these saws? “one handed” isn’t PC (and is probably tempting fate)..... “top handled” sounds like something in the bottom of the kids toy box.... and “climbing saw” sounds a bit like a rope burn following an over eager descent.... so forgive me if I’m going over old ground, but has anyone any inspired saw names? (or should I just call it Andreas?).

With regard to bats, surely what we are trying to do is prove a negative here (ie chop away my son, there's no expensive bats in that one!). Its generally very hard to prove a negative. IF the system can be tuned to locate bats, the best it will do is warn us if bats are present. IMO if our results don't come up as positive we are still none the wiser, the bats and resulting fine may still be waiting for us undetected.