Dan Curtis

Thats what I was thinking, they look like the ones in the photos on the Fr website

What species are they?

This is the one i meant to put up [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcPWEMwGJVQ]Quadrotors Perform James Bond Theme with Artificial Swarm Intelligence by GRASP - YouTube[/ame]

Buy loads and do this...[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQIMGV5vtd4&feature=player_embedded]A Swarm of Nano Quadrotors - YouTube[/ame] Skip about half way through

I'd use rope instead of a steelcore if you're planning on spiking up there too, easier to roll on big stuff if you aren't used to it. Or just wait for the crane and get a lift in Beat me to it!

Are you still playing with this setup Joe? Had a brief ponder whether any other pulleys might do the same as you'd intended today. Might do some playing about and see what I can come up with

Two flip lines and long gaffs if you've not spiked one that size before

Thankyee, i'll probably take you up on that

Ditto

56"! You went for it a bit then! Nah, was around that time, but had (and still have) some other stuff I'd like to mill

Didn't mean to offend you mate, keep at it! Someone told me once, the tree climbing industry needs these "mavericks" experimenting in order to move forward. I reckon you're now one of them:001_cool:

Sure is, I'm not saying it isn't. But, a hitch on srt will get you up there, a munter will get you down. Thats surely the cheapest way? Though perhaps not the advised method...

Thinking about the 11 vs 13 thing... The advised bend radius for rope is 8:1, though generally accepted in tree work 4:1. That becket is only small, so imo pushing it to be using it with 11 (44mm bend radius) so using it with 13 (52mm) is really not good. I can imagine that 13 will flatten and splurge quite a lot, severely weakening the rope where it bends at the becket.

I do think that if the gap between the becket and sheave was smaller, or perhaps the becket was offset to the far side that the rope travels, you might get a better bend in the rope, and more friction. That said, I have my wrench fully open on tachyon, and use the pip pin, which is a bit smaller than the standard rw sheave, meaning its about the biggest aperture it can get and still all good on friction.

I tried it with a hitch in various set ups too. From what I've done,I can't see it coming anywhere near the wrench. Just need to lay my hands on a spiderjack to try it now.

As in how it is in the fourth pic?

As was pondered earlier, how much friction/load does the pinto take? I tried a few basic tests to check it out. The idea I tried was to set various things up, and see if with the friction they added to a single rope with my bodyweight on it, could the grip of one hand hold me in place? I.e. if my hand can hold it, the setup is taking a lot of my weight. I used brand new tachyon, though i find friction can be improved srt (and Ddrt) once the rope has a bit of wear, so allow for that with the following. Plus, as said earlier, the pinto/sj combo only worked on 13mm, which I don't currently own. First off, a munter - no problem at all holding myself free hanging on the line. Same goes for a figure 8. Obviously. Second the ropewrench on its own, no hitch etc. Yes it's possible to hold my weight with one hand and the rw. We all know it works, and theres plenty of evidence to prove it, so no bother there. Third, the pinto as shown in the first post of this thread. You can just about hold on with a slow, hand burning descent, lots of effort and minor hand cramp though:biggrin: So, judging by that, the pinto takes very little of your load, and adds very little friction to your system. Carrying on, I tried to work out how the pinto could be used as a friction aid. Set up differently, I think it could. Fourth test - Running the rope through the whole pinto, creating three points of contact; one on the becket, one on the sheave and one (small) on the top of the attachment krab. Again, slow, slithery descent and a warm hand, though a definite improvement on the previous method. Five - Inverting the pinto, so the attachment point is at the top. Using the becket and side plates, it is possible to use the pinto to hold your weight, still using only the one hand, and perform a controlled descent, keeping my palm intact. So the pinto can add enough friction to be used this way, but in picture 6, this is what happens when you try to ascend with the pinto inverted. Way too much friction, so much infact, I couldn't move at all, even using both feet with the pantin. Though you could cobble some RADS system and use it, IMO missing the point of SRT altogether. I may be missing the point, and these tests are basically belay device tests, which the rope wrench is not, so could in fact be completely irrelevant:lol: BTW, don't try this at home, I accept no responsibility for any accidents occuring from use of these tests:sneaky2:

First off, great idea Albere:thumbup1: I tried this when I got back today (at low level). The first one stopped the Lockjack sitting properly and didn't really work, not enough friction added by the pinto. The second sits well, and does give correct function, but is a bit jerky. IMO due to there still not being enough friction added.

As promised earlier [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-Tfp9SzDWc&list=UUCm5fwHS9hQ0ghiKz6-_ISA&index=3&feature=plcp]testing friction in a rope wrench - YouTube[/ame] I'll put up the rest in a minute

There is a video by Kevin Bingham, explaining the loading with the rope wrench and what takes what load, I'll put the link up later when I'm in from work

Looks good Joe. When I said tight bend radius on the Becket I meant it would be better on the rope if it was bigger. Too tight a bend causes weakening of the rope at that point. How was ascent on that setup?