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WeeDee

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Everything posted by WeeDee

  1. Sorry Testcricket for repeating you. I'm too slow on the keys!
  2. The pulley is there to ease the friction - it'll make any pulling a bit easier. You're right about the knot in the rope as long as it goes through the big end and jams in the small end. I think most of the simple cambium savers are much of a muchness. I've a Stein one (100cm) and a Petzl Treesbee (120cm) that has a big fixed ring and a removable shackle.
  3. I agree with you on the length of the cambium saver - but funnily enough, I've always had the big ring over-lying the small ring. When the rope is clear of the big ring it tends to lift and let the saver turn on the stem - whereas when I set it up with the small ring over-lying it bears down on the free end and doesn't let the saver slip on the bark. It might depend on the stiffness of the cambium saver.
  4. If you had a shackle on one 'end' of the sling and a safe krab on the other - the eye of the rope would pass through the larger krab first then snag on the smaller shackle - pulling the whole thing out of the tree with the end of your rope.
  5. I'm not exactly clear what you mean, Mike - but if you're having problems with the choked cambium saver not retrieving with the rope then choke on the stem as you suggest, then retrieve the cambium saver with a throwline once the climbing line is out of the way and you're on the ground. I might be picturing this the wrong way but it'll not be the first time. Somebody is bound to mention 'ropeguide' but I'm assuming you wont be using one.
  6. "Carlsberg don't do Arb Forums - but if they did ........."
  7. I beg to differ. I prefer your image - it's got a hobbit feel about it.
  8. Don't - that's just what they want you to do!
  9. ha ha
  10. I've spliced the large Pinto onto mine - I wanted to leave as much space as possible for the exiting rope eye.
  11. Mines a bit like that, but I have the addition of a large bucket of curses and blasphemes that are liberally applied when crossovers become a bit tight.
  12. Just how much does YouTube pay? (sorry for the derail, Dadio, but it was Rich's post that caught my attention)
  13. Roni, is that Traxion in there as a Traxion, or just as a pulley?
  14. Do you remember Animal Magic with Johnny Morris?
  15. Didn't see much snow on the video.
  16. There should be a diagram on the grab indicating the 'right way up'. The strap is girth-hitched round the eye of the grab and then connected to your harness by usual means, the other end of the line is attached to the other point of the harness. Let me ask - are you figuring this out by youself, or are you planning on getting some training?
  17. I know a woman called Linda Hand. No joke.
  18. You shouldn't laugh, but you do - don't you.
  19. Oh! I hear there's a knitting forum that's looking for members like me. Sorry.
  20. I don't think it's the answer - two hands I mean. As I walk out on a branch, I lean away from the stem and as I touch the top of the VT it loosens and my bodyweight pulls slack through the hitch. I only need one hand on the hitch. As I've said, the grip/release characteristics of your VT can be altered with different combinations of wraps and braids. Give it a try ....... before you move over to the rope wrench.
  21. Albere might still have a point. Are you saying, Ben, that when you walk out on the branch and grip the top of the VT, and pull gently down so that the rope is allowed to pass through the hitch - that's when you find that the rope isn't being allowed through freely enough? This still might be because the VT still has too much grip on the rope. Have you tried tying the VT with fewer wraps and more braids?
  22. Yeah Ben, it might be found under the search 'extendable bridges for Mr. Shutler'.
  23. A clip off a dog leash? (fiddly with a strong spring)
  24. Lee, have you considered asking a local school or youth group (4 to 11) to design a logo? Whether it's a bit of a 'doodle' or a masterpiece, it might just have the right effect.
  25. Oldmill is correct. Many semi-static ropes will shrink when first soaked with water. By soaking a new rope before its first use, you get the shrinking over and done with and end up with its true working length and a tight outer jacket on the rope.

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