WeeDee
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Everything posted by WeeDee
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The NEW skylotec passo-pl karabiner whats your view???
WeeDee replied to Rhystree's topic in Climbers talk
That's very interesting. So, does the requirement focus more on three moving pieces on the krab, and not three separate 'actions' of the operator? -
The NEW skylotec passo-pl karabiner whats your view???
WeeDee replied to Rhystree's topic in Climbers talk
TBH if I had been asked without any info - I would have said this krab was a two-action krab. I've only seen the video, but it looks like a pinch and gate-push to me. I understand that the pinch requires two separate pieces to move on the gate but it's still one pinch from the operator. I tend to open a Petzl ball krab by pinching the barrel (thus pushing in the green ball), twisting the barrel then pushing the gate. I don't think I could open the gate without a finger pushing against an opposable thumb. To me, this krab is missing the 'twist'. Having said this, I repeat that I haven't operated one of these new krabs and so haven't much of a feel for the actual movement. -
Worcswuss, just to add to what Verminator and Drew is posting - you could consider placing the hitch temporarily further from you, thus creating a length of rope (below the hitch) that you can reach up for and pull down. By searching 'extendable bridges for mr. shutler' you'll find pictures of ways to extend the hitch position (including the O-rig that Drew mentioned).
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I agree with what you have stated. And I accept that some people are refering to the Hitchclimber system with little knowledge of the evolution of split-tail sytems that 'paved the way'. But when someone refers to the Hitchclimber system, or set-up, they may be merely describing - in a concise way - the equipment and technique that is sitting before them. They may appreciate that it's not a world beyond a split-tail system integrating a slack tender/fairlead micro pulley, but they might just find it easier to communicate their set-up by calling it "an HC system". I don't think most people mean to discredit the work of those who have previously developed the techniques that have lead to the production of the Hitchclimber pulley - they are porbably just using the 'short-handed' way of communicating that often leads to a change in how language is used - admittedly with a loss in exact meaning.
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Or place it in a better position. You've quite a few things going on here at the same time - and it's resulting in disatisfaction. You need to change one thing at a time so you then find what part of this set-up is causing the bother (or the most bother!). After that, you can start changing each variable to see how it affects the whole. It's worth remembering that you've only begun to find the ideal set-up, give yourself a bit of time.
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I was a Yeah sayer until I tried one - it comes up too far on my back to be comfortable. Now, I would agree it's a great harness - they seem to have designed a harness that's preferred by the majority of people - but not by all. And I accept that you can't be everything to everyone. I ended up with the Sequoia SRT - a harness much more comfortable to me.
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You could give it a try. Just flake the rope into a bag, or a garden trug, and see if it pays out without the twists.
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Treespasser, after use, how do you store the rope? Might it be the way you're packing it away?
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Take it for a pull across a (clean) football pitch, or the like. As the rope lies in one line, it'll unwind as you brush it through the grass. Then be careful as you pack it away into a loose container.
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Sorry to hear your bad news, Egg. Dee.
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I think it depends on what sockets you have on the back of your monitor, Johny. The Wii seems capable of linking to many things - but you need the right socket. Look for a USB cable link. Dee
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Steve, did the total money collected eventually exceed the value of prizes?
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Hi Gary, I'm not sure which compass you mean. I have a Silva 15 compass that I use when mountaineering, it's got a clinometer on it but it wouldn't be great for your purposes. To use this type, you hold the baseplate on its side, sight along the top edge, and then move your head to look a the 'angle from horizontal' reading on the compass' housing. This is OK when the compass is held against a ranging rod but as you move your head away from the compass, there is opportunity for the compass to move. To take a reading - a small 'pendulum' falls to plumb inside the compass housing and you then read off the angle from plumb/horizontal on the side of the housing. I'm not sure if this is of any use - but my compass wouldn't be suitable for accurate measurements in the field - especially when there are better alternatives.
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Splicing Yale XTC (Fire) and other 16-strand ropes
WeeDee replied to morten's topic in Splicing Forum
I do too. Morten, Samson, 16 strand, Class 1 It doesn't come much simpler than these three pages. -
A special lady-friend of yours?
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The symbol for inches, eg. 1" X 5", hasn't been included. If you check Step 2 you'll notice that the distance between those two marks is 2" when compared to the 12" also marked.
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Yeah Drew, you showed us that one before. It'll be found on here under 'rope guides for the masses'.
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Eggrascal, you're just like Mother Teresa - aren't you!
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Too true.
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Those that get a bad weld probably know why - they've probably been told plenty of times.
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Some do, some don't.
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Any MIG will benefit from clean metal and still-air environments. ARC welding is more tolerant of less than perfect conditions. These factors might start your narrowing-down of suitable choices.
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I agree about the lateral thinking, who knows what this might lead to. With the helmets, I think the consistency of material will be the difficult part of CE certification.
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Outside or inside? Clean or dirty metal?
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I agree with Highscale about the splicing, although when you factor in how much money, time and effort you saved by throwing this one together, you must be feeling pleased with yourself. Nice work, FlamingAce.
