Marko

Our Morso (in the avatar) knocks the spots of our old trusty Yeoman. It knocks out twice the heat for a fraction of the wood. It cost an awful lot more mind but I think it was worth it. I am saving my pennies for a Morso Squirell to replace the Yeoman.

A mog and trailer would make a unique and contemprary set of arse antlers

No I don't sell them - I just sit in front of one worrying about all the great big chunks of wood I am burning that could haave been turned into masterpieces... if only I knew how. I promise I will have a go at a mushroom this year!

Thanks for the info and the links. 3 years might be the optimum harvest for chip that is going to Drax where I believe it only converts at 20% of its full potential. I would still be interested to hear how any unharvested SRC looks at the 6 year point as I do think it would be easier to dry in lengths (not withstanding the extra handling and storage) for the maximum hit when burnt.

top work.

Has anyone had any practical exerience of SRC? A couple of (possibly dumb) questions arise... In order to minimise transport costs and extract the most energy from the harvest, is there a practical method to dry chip in these volumes on site Rather than chip it every 3 years, if left for longer could it be logged (every 6 years?) Is there a standard bed size / field layout?

I am sure at some point the scale of the heap may make a difference but when we tried it the extraction of the heat stopped the process. ie everything worked fine until the pump was switched on.

Why bother with a light board?

3.99 tons

If you do take the plunge, it would be worth listing your kit for hire on Firewood processing equipment for hire. Rent log splitters, saws, firewood processing machines and kindlett machines. Free to Arbtalkers so nothing to loose!

Your complaint against Yell will be upheld if: (1) the manner in which the domain name(s) is/are identical or confusingly similar to a trademark or service mark in which the Complainant has rights; and (2) why the Respondent (domain-name holder) should be considered as having no rights or legitimate interests in respect of the domain name(s) that is/are the subject of the complaint; and (3) why the domain name(s) should be considered as having been registered and being used in bad faith See ICANN | Rules for Uniform Domain Name Dispute Resolution Policy It will be very interesting to see how Yell would defend this. If they wont budge I would take it up with ICANN and also the national papers who I am sure would be very interested in such a dubious practice.

It is yell. See https://shop.easyspace.com/buyonline/generic/whois.cfm?domain=oxleastreecarese18.co.uk "There are some basics that you should understand before choosing a domain name registration: 1. Use of two similar trademarks should not confuse customers about the products or services. 2. If there is a legal conflict over use of similar trademarks, the first user is likely to win the case. 3. The later user would to give up his claim if he cannot proves his point and may have to pay the first owner damages". There is nothing beneficial to you in what they seem to be doing. At face value they are attempting to steal YOUR traffic and will probably require a sum of money from you for them to push the traffic back in your direction. Take copies of their site and let rip in the morning.

Just watched it. Like watching Terminator 2 nothing would stop her.

I doubt anyone would question this obvious truth in your example but am unsure as to how this demonstrates the 'sweeping comments' that you seemingly disagree with. Equally, I would question whether the unit of measurement you offer (oven dry cubic meters) is that practical i.e. is it likely to strike a chord with customers wrestling with this age old problem. Calories per m3 at 20% I could understand as it would have a more worldy purpose.

As far as the layman is concerned, the calorific value of wood is all but the same. The difference is around 5%. Easy - all the same. Tell the world! The problem is that this is true by weight (and at the same moisture content)... so 1kg of oak measuring 20% has the same calorific value as 1kg of Poplar at 20% moisture. As we sell by volume rather than weight it still leaves us with the age old problems: hardwood, softwood, ton bag etc etc. If there was an easy answer it would have been cleared up a long time ago.

No shortages here - I have 13 acres I can't give away.

Oh yes I have heard of them. I usually don't think forums are the place to bad mouth companies but for this lot I will make the exception. My actual thoughts are unprinatable but when it came to the crunch they were as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike. Read the small print as if your life depended on it and, if you still think its a good idea then go and lie down for a while.

No need for cocktails. Spray with Grazon when regeneration is a good 6"+ It may be getting a bit late in the year though as brambles do need to be growing hard for it to be fully effective.

Thanks for the info. Appreciated.

We are just teetering on parting with (what feels like) a not insubstantial drop of cash on an Alaskan sawmill set-up, so want to avoid the schoolboy errors and get it right as we can first time. So, some points for discussion: Mill size: My impression looking through the threads is that often people seem to wish they had bought a bigger mill, and end up upgrading. The trees on our plot are mostly not that big, and I could probably manage with a 30 inch mill, but I don’t want to find myself wishing I’d just bought the biggest one and be done with it. As far as I can tell, you can cut small widths with a big mill. Are there downsides to this? Is it just too unwieldy to be practical? Going in the other direction, is it possible to upgrade a smaller mill to a bigger width, or is it a case of starting over with another rig? Saw: Being a long-time Husky user, I was surprised to see their 90 and 120 cc saws completely absent from discussions on milling, the ground being covered largely by the Stihl 880 and a bit of 660. I had an impressively frank discussion about why this should be with the Husky Reps at the Royal Welsh Show a couple of weeks back, but I’d be interested to hear views from those without a conflict of interest (though my feeling was that they were pretty straight with me). So if we take it to those two saws: unless I’m slabbing huge lumps of hardwood, is the 880 just plain overkill? It seems to be viewed as the best tool for that job, but if this is an occasional activity and most of the work is planking 30 inch Douglas fir, would the 660 be an adequate, cheaper and lighter alternative. Trying to guess what I will be doing, with a bit of contingency, my proposed setup is a 36 inch mill, a mini-mill and a Stihl 660 with a 36 inch bar. Any thoughts on this admittedly “piece of string” discussion gratefully received

Even if you are happy to risk the tarring issues burning wet wood is not anything close to efficient. If I remember correctly the difference in moisture content between 20% and 25% reduces the heat output by 50%. So you will use twice the volume of wood for the same heat and have to get off your backside twice as often to fill the stove.

A small solar kiln would possibly be more worthy of the effort and provide more lasting benefit.... but you will still need to cut and split the wood!

I would expect a two year old one sold on ebay to bring £1000 - £1250 perhaps a bit more if sold in the Autumn. If you watch ebay carefully over the next few weeks you might see exactly how much your saw was worth.

I would imagine about £110 more than your last quote would get a subtle message accross.