monkeybusiness

It’s going on a 6 tonne Takeuchi - apparently it has 100l/min oil flow so should (on paper at least) run any in this size range. My concern is it taking longer to recover the drum speed when working if running a larger/heavier rotor. I’m not concerned about the weight of the unit/machine stability, just the recovery lag between ‘bites’ if that makes sense? Willow is always a pain to mulch (it’s bad enough putting it through a not-razor-sharp chipper!).

Just out of interest, are you happy with how this performs/how your digger runs it? I’m seriously contemplating one of these but am torn between the 90cm and 110cm. I’d prefer the wider cut but don’t want to over-face the machine!

Great stuff, thanks John

Weapon! Where did you get that from if you don’t mind me asking?

As previously asked - what flail is that boyo?

Hi John - is that running flails or a caged rotor? Cheers

I think you need to go and do all that other work you have available and leave this current set-up. It’s not beneficial to you or your employer to continue with such animosity on your part. Sometimes it might be worth reflecting on who is out there finding/providing the work that puts food on your table though - they aren’t necessarily out to make your life hard/totally useless/coming up with apparently ridiculous suggestions for the sake of it. This (and pretty much every other) industry is full of hoops that need jumping through, and it’s not likely that there will be fewer hoops any time soon IMO.

If you want to work for someone you need to play by their rules, it’s pretty simple really. I’d personally argue the tablet charge but otherwise what they are asking seems reasonable to me.

Or is it a pointless exercise on a small digger like this?

I’d imagine a decent autoelectrician would be able to piggyback it, so you get both options.

I’m considering buying a mulcher for a 6 tonne digger - anyone have any recommendations/personal experience?

If it’s already got an electrical control box/spoils then turning it into radio control is pretty easy - speak to approved hydraulics, they will sort you out.

I’ve just bought a kit of parts to do this on a Bandit 250 PTO (but it won’t be hand feedable once converted). The cetop valves are straightforward enough (I sourced them through Flowfit), and I’ve bought a multi-function radio control unit that apparently latches on certain channels off eBay from China for £20 (that actually looks and feels cheap and nasty and I’m not convinced how good it will be but we will see - a more professional heavy duty equivalent is available for around £400 from Approved Hydraulics and I may go down that road yet). My set up requires a 12v supply and will default to stop (ie oil returns straight to tank instead of turning rollers) when de-energised/not plugged in etc. The Bandit stress control is still in situ/not messed around with. There will be a couple of emergency stop switches on the hopper which will basically de-energise everything, and the radio control will latch to feed, momentary/hold reverse, with momentary/hold crush and roller lift. When things calm down I’ll wire/plumb it all in and report back!

I hope whoever burgled you dies slowly and painfully, scummy pondlife.

Pledge

Hopefully your nephew gets charged with handling stolen goods, dirty little thief.

Sorry to hear that Nathan. Scumbags everywhere unfortunately.

Looks amazing - lacks a log deck/better loading set up though surely?

Heavy duty rear springs - speak to Midland Road Springs.

One infeed roller to save cost (these were a budget/entry level model) - they were supplied with stress control so speak to Timberwolf with your serial number and they should be able to price you up the missing parts.

I think the issue lies with the chassis mounting components of the towing bracketry, not just the plate that you can see that the drop plate bolts to. The chassis mounting points will always try to pivot around the rearmost fixings as load is applied to the towball - eg the vertical noseweight will pivot the forward fixings up into the chassis. The design of the mountings will take into account the much greater pivot moments applied by pulling and braking - arguably the greatest forces will be generated under heavy braking. Lowering the towball height increases the pivot vertically into the chassis, but raising it reverses the pivot and will try to twist the mounts down and away from the chassis. That’s how I see it anyway.

Are you helping the demolition of that building with the Liebherr Eddie? Green machine looks ace - I bet it feels a bit weird/scary tramping at that speed with the cab elevated!

No - this is Si https://www.treecarving.co.uk/

I was just going to link that - Si O’Rourke (who I think is on here) knocked it up a couple of weeks ago. Mega!!!

Shorts? It’s February. And not Australia.