monkeybusiness

Apologies, the post above mine came as I wrote. If you tie a stopper knot into the cambium saver (which I now think you mean) then yes, you only load the branch with the climber’s weight. You can subsequently tie off a very long tail as a base anchor and that won’t apply any additional significant load into the cambium saver (and therefore anchor point) unless the anchor point fails and the ‘redundant’ tail then becomes hung up and catches the climber. If (as I thought you meant) you simply base-tie your climbing rope after running it through a cambium saver you are in no way reducing the actual loading imposed on the anchor point - it will be double.

Correct in DDRT but not so in SRT (which was what was being referred to). Great post Paddy, but I think you are confused (or I’ve interpreted it wrong) in saying that the cambium saver removes the double loading from the branch/anchor point. It doesn’t.

@topchippyles - this software isn’t aimed at you, there is nothing in this thread relevant to you. You’re constant input and attempted baiting of others to whom this also has no relevance is ridiculous and more than likely off-putting to anyone who might be interested in talking to @Theri about his product. Do everyone a favour and try and control your incessant posting please!

Me too, massive anti-climax!!!

What was the answer @eggsarascal? Lack of damage to wing/inner arch when compared to the state of the tyre (someone has put that wheel on after the event for some reason)?

I include myself in the previous generalisation by the way!!!

‘Useful‘ input is rare from the most prolific posters on here, newbie input is always more than welcome!

Any pics/price/location of the trommel?

Also, is that a car alloy on a van - potentially not rated to carry enough weight? Therefore illegal/dangerous...

Oversized wheel trim (for some bizarre reason) held on with cable ties that has been rubbing away at the sidewall of the tyre causing failure?

I’m not sure the one in your link will work when coupled (but I may be wrong). Also try Lincmaster - we’ve had good products from them over the years.

Thinking about both a 2.5 and a 6 tonner tbh.

Looking at your picture of the whole tree it is apparent that you’ve raised the levels around the base of the tree, burying the roots and basal flair. That is not good for the tree’s health at all as you restrict the availability of oxygen to the roots (roots need oxygen as they respire, and raising the soil level essentially suffocates and kills them). If you can it would be best to carefully reinstate the original ground levels. As a minimum I’d suggest finding a local arboriculturalist with an airspade and ‘dig’ some channels down to the root system and backfill with a light mulch. It will make a mess of your lawn though! Definitely don’t raise the levels any further at all would be my advice...

Mathematical genius (Stephen Hawking’s go-to guy when he got stuck with a really hard sum).

Do you just run a belt driven pump off the front Bob? Make up a bracket etc and nail it on it is it somehow sandwiched with the main engine driven pump? Doesn’t the digger’s existing oil-cooler keep up? I assume you use the same hydraulic tank (totally understand the reasoning behind additional filtration though).

Does anyone know how easy/hard it is to add an extra hydraulic pump to a digger engine for just this reason?

Next question - can anyone recommend a team who could crown-lift a few oak trees and fell some scrub at WGC ASAP? Or possibly provide chip and remove for a team of mine if I send climbers down to do the job? Cheers, Dan (07970188050).

Yeah, if you haven’t got a figure in mind that you’d let it go for then eBay will theoretically find its actual value. You’ll either end up happy or disappointed (your morals will ultimately determine if you end up disappointed though!).

How much would you consider taking for it as-is?

How much do you want for it? I’ll start the bidding at £1500...

Thanks mate - I think it’s sorted now but will defo give him a shout if plan A doesn’t come off!

I was told by a trailer instructor to time your braking with the inward ‘swing’ of the snake, and let off as it passes through centre. You need to brake hard enough to get the overrun trailer brakes to apply. I tried it once with a wildly snaking trailer going down a big hill. It ended in tears - trailer on its side overtaking me and pushing me into the central reservation. I was going to crash anyway so thought it worth a try - in theory I’m sure it could work but I’ve no idea how one could practice this particular manoeuvre safely!!! (I could have theoretically tried accelerating out of that particular incident as I had enough power and was going down a massive hill - however, I reckon I’d have genuinely ended up going well over 100mph and I’m not convinced that would have improved my situation in any way!)

Does anyone have a contact for someone with a tractor-mounted side-arm flail in Welwyn Garden City by any chance? I need to get a roadside verge (only 120 m) flailed ASAP to allow site hoarding to be installed - it’s not a big job so needs a local contractor so it can (ideally) be done quickly.

Does anyone have a contact for someone with a tractor-mounted side-arm flail in Welwyn Garden City by any chance? I need to get a roadside verge (only 120 m) flailed ASAP to allow site hoarding to be installed - it’s not a big job so needs a local contractor so it can (ideally) be done quickly. Sadly there’s not enough there to warrant a day’s work/justify a day’s rate to the client.

I’m tempted to sack the lads, weigh in all my kit, ditch the wife and kids, move house and come and work for you tbh!!! Don’t lose hope - there are brilliant people out there (I’m lucky enough to have amazing guys working with me) but there are also many who just don’t ‘click’ (we’ve had our fair share of those too)... Some very good at what they do, but just don’t ‘fit’ (in extremes they can be terrible for team morale - we’ve had a couple of excellent climbers who nobody wants to work with). Others who you’d be best mates in the world with outside work, but can’t be relied on to turn up when required/not wreck kit/etc etc. Others still who talk a good game and have everything possible on paper, but simply can’t do the job. There are also guys out there who arguably aren’t the best in the industry but I’d employ them tomorrow as they get stuck in, get on with everyone, don’t need watching and can be relied upon. There are yet others who could probably run the business better than me in reality, but I wouldn’t even employ them as brash draggers through direct or word-of-mouth experience of their work ethic. We’ve had work-experience lads here that you simply can’t believe are functioning human beings, yet I’ve crossed paths with others (admittedly not many) that I’d employ on the spot even though they have no tickets or industry experience (sadly I have a strong moral compass and won’t poach staff off anyone!). @Gray git - I wasn’t aware of your family situation and understand your need to fill the gap ASAP to give yourself some breathing-space. Talk to your customers and explain your situation - they are human and will no doubt be invested in you and what you bring to the table. The ones that have no compassion you don’t need anyway so don’t lose any sleep if they go elsewhere. Try to ‘triage’ the workload so your guys can handle the immediate stuff that can’t wait whilst you are focussed on much more important family matters. Don’t take on a totally new member of staff that you aren’t 100% happy with whilst you are spinning so many plates, it’ll just add to your workload/stress-levels. The right person will come along soon enough. (If you are really in the mire with a job before ‘Mr or Mrs Right’ appears give me a shout - I’ll send you some cracking lads up as long as you promise not to steal them!).