Mesterh
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Everything posted by Mesterh
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Well then make him an offer for it!
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Thought I'd post this since it may be of some use to someone here. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STUMP-GRINDER-WHEEL-MUILTI-TIP-WHEEL-VERMEER_W0QQitemZ200225812707QQihZ010QQcategoryZ42228QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Btw I have nothing to do with the seller etc I just came across it.
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A diamond wheel is the way to go, about £30-40 from ebay. Way cheaper in the long run than green wheels and nowhere near as dusty, plus you can get a better edge on the teeth.
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Have you had the motors checked? Could be a dodgy one.
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The bridge on it atm is fairly small anyway about 9" long iirc, the harness is a small sized one. I think im gonna try it out wearing jeans instead of chainsaw pants (sip freedom ultra type c) and see if that helps at all.(too hot for ballistics atm anyhow) How are you finding the Treeflex? Cheers for the advice though.
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Thought I'd post a bit of an update on using the Treeflex. I've tried setting up the harness in a few different ways (with some info from Steve Bullman and Ben from Safety Technology:icon14:)but all to no avail I'm afraid:bawling: I just cant get this harness to feel right while I'm working in it. I've tried tightening and loosening the leg loops,raising and lowering the bridge (which is a bit of a poor design imo) and wearing the harness lower down onto the hips rather than the waist. But it just aint happening. I think I'll put it to one side atm and carry on using my old Willans until the APF show in september and look for a new one then. Cheers for all the help and input, pity it just aint for me.
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OMG! To think ive been doing it wrong all of these years! I would have looked at that and thought "what idiot has done that" but now my mind has been expanded. I'm off to start painting wounds with tar, filling cavities with concrete and creosoting decaying wood.
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Well i dont agree with type of practice at all. Offers no benefits to the tree imo, the only thing it benefits is wildlife. Great to see ancient trees being butchered in the name of science! Btw I aint having a go at you its the NT who need a slap:icon14:
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Have a look at the aluminium piece that looks like a dogs bone ! (best way i can describe it sometimes these crack and can cause probs with the chain brake. Its underneath the white plastic cover that is held in by 2 or 3 screws.
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Thats the one, brilliant. I replaced it with a 86t the biggest load of garbage ever! Dont think I'll bother buying another stihl one if this is the best they can do. Sorry to be negative but why mess about with something when it works well in the first place.
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Same here. Didnt realise some policies had height restrictions:dong: Will a 31m tree do much more damage than a 30m one?
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Just been doing a bit of maintanence on a couple of our older ms200t's and noticed a hair line crack in the small metal pin located in the housing bolted to the carb. This pin is what holds the air filter cover on. I lost an engine to this a while back but didnt realise what had done the damage until now! If you dont ever remove the air cleaner then yours is probably fine but its got to be worth having a look since it might save a few quid in the long run. The crack is difficult to see but worth checking out. BTW just had a look and the part that needs replacing is called the filter base and should cost less than a tenner.
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Hi, and welcome to the forum. I have a pair of the Aquafell Xpert and I think they are really good. Very light and flexible also good for spiking(I know you dont need them for that but hey they are still good) Dunno about how long they will last since ive only had them for about 4 months but seem to be holding up well. Contact Jonsie on here he had some for sale at £110 no vat dunno if he will post to Sweden but gotta be worth a try:icon14:
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I hope they are sarctistic comments! It's better to be realistic with your skills, the thing about tree work is that you cant really buff your way along, you can either take a tree down quickly without destroying everthing in site or you cant its as easy as thaT. Dont get luled into thinking theres loads of easy money to be made,there aint.
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I'm not allways that cheap. Sometimes I even use oil before its past through the engine of my truck:corkysm21: Cheers I'll have look about and see what prices I can get. I'd imagine the postage would bump that up abit Btw whats the price on a new carb for a 200t? Surely there must be a few other tight gits who use cheapo oil? Cheers for the info fellas looks like its deffo the problem.
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Saws are between say 6 months to 4 years old, the 6 month old one hasnt done it yet. If no one else is having this prob then its gotta be the oil, unless any others are using engine oil and there saws ok? The oil I use is the stuff you can buy from morrisons,asda etc for about £4.30 ish, used to be about £2.50 up to about 12 months ago:scared: Btw any1 got any prices on 45 gallon drums of chain oil? Maybe time to invest in some.
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Anyone else having problems with there 200t leaking chain oil from the gasket between the crankcase halves? Which means a total strip down to do a proper repair, and since I have another one to do this weekend I'm getting a bit bored of it now to say the least. I've had 5 do this now What happens is the gasket gets pulled inside the crankcase and the oil leaks out. I assume this is caused by a vacuum in the oil tank as the level drops, probably due to the vent getting blocked or something. Btw since I'm a cheapskate I use the cheapest engine oil about not anti-fling stuff so im wondering if this contributes to the problem, or do I need to just start cleaning the saws more often? Just wondering if anyone else has the same problems or knows the proper solution? Cheers
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In a word yes, you could possibly get away with it on domestic aslong as only you use the chipper. Have a look here http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/ais38.pdf It gives you the guidlines on what safety features a chipper needs for the hse (well the safety bar bit anyway) Thats because the HSE thinks we are all idiots:banghead:
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As Skyhuck and Roller say get a job with a company to get some experience first mate. Having tickets and climbing equipment doesnt make you a tree surgeon, many years of hard work and dedication to the job do that. As for £80 a day, you would have to be fairly decent with at least a couple of years experience to get that money up hear. Good climbers can get around the 120-140 a day mark but usally only on specificate jobs, you aint gonna get that for droping a few 10 foot conifers . I aint trying to be negative but ALOT of people dont realise the skill involved in doing proper tree work.And I've seen too many Plastic tree surgeons. Good luck anyway mate.
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Funny you should bring this up because i was asked about the lagalities on pruning felling trees in the nesting season. I just sort of waffled on abit then side stepped the question since I'm not fully aware of legal stuff. If i get halfway through a conifer hedge and find a nest (only pigeons mind) with eggs or very young chicks then im sorry but most of the time its gone. If there older chicks then i will leave it till theyve flown.
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Dunno about that I know someone who's jenson snapped in half while he was towing it Good job he wasnt tonging it down the motorway. Chassis on both sides around the mud guard area just snapped, think it was only about 3 years old, the machine looked fairly mint aswell.
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Looked like a 3 day job to me the way we do it over here. Its great having the men/equipment and most importantly the access to do a job that quickly only as long as the work keeps rolling in.
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I would have thought that the type of tyre (tread or grip) is way more important than whether it is single or dual wheel. Whenever I've been stuck in a field its the front that sinks the rear duals just turn to slicks and your going nowhere.
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I've used a 190 tracked Timberwolf that was fairly good It was about a 2004 model I think but we then used a brand new one that was awfull. They had changed something on the feed roller design and it didnt like pulling in any size branches unless they were straight.
