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Chris Sheppard

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Everything posted by Chris Sheppard

  1. Lost one of ours today, an infection of the Uterus meant she was going to need a hysterectomy and at just short of 10 years old the vet reckoned she didn't have a very good chance of making it through and even if she did there was a very strong possibility of further complications. First time we've ever had to make the descision to put one down and never realised how hard it would be.
  2. I don't think there is such a thing off the shelf. You'l lstruggle to find anything that will put the knife right down to the table as it wouldn't be up to current regs, though I'm told a sheet of that high density plastic chopping board is a good way of closing the gap down a bit for stringy stuff. Also, if you read the small print of any splitter manual, it'll say that the machines are only designed for straight grained timber - firewood produced in other countries tends to be from much better quality of timber than some of the narly chunks we'd convert over here. For the sort of stuff you're looking to split, and the fact you want to keep it low budget, I'd agree with the others about making one. A ram off a tractor shear grab is fairly short with big pressure, but remember if you want decent speed with a big diameter ram you'll need a good flow as well.
  3. Works very well with a 20", if needed bigger though would prob be reaching for a bigger saw.
  4. We used to use them on one estate and TBH if I was you, I'd save a bit more and buy the 372 - basically the same saw but with bigger displacement and a whole heap more go about it. While the 365 is a good solid saw, it just feels like a 372 that's down on power - if a 365 had enough guts for what you wanted then I'd go 357 instead. A 20" bar on a 365 will become tedious as it won't cut particulalry fast, especially if ringing up biggish stuff, whereas the 372 will run 20" all day long on most stuff and have enven been known to shove an 8 tooth sprocket on it with the 20" and it still be OK if you're not too heavy on the rakers.
  5. Got a couple of loads of 3.75 Scot sawlogs lookign for a home as Taylormade are only taking scot in 2.5 at the mo - anyone looking for or know of anyone taking withing a sensible distance of York. Can get a wagon and drag in and maybe an artic but would need to reverse a fair way.
  6. Yep, one stub for the central pivot and one one each end for the wheels to bolt to. Wouldn't like to try it on a big trailer but for a smaller one it seemed to work well. By the very nature of a rocking beam set up, the central pivot takes an awful lot of abuse when turning and when a conventional bush starts to wear you'll start to notice the front set of wheels will sit slightly wider than the rears as it splays and usually the only way to sort it is to fit a new bush (which could be a pig of a job). With a hub, you can just pop the centre cap and tweak up the nut to take out any play. Also, for a trailer to go behind the ferrari, I'd go for a small ag traielr type wheel and tyre rather than ATV as the sidewalls will felx like mad when turnign as well as them not being great for carryign the weight either.
  7. Not got any pics, but have seen a trailer stub axle used to good effect to make the rocking beam on a smaller trailer - the piece of box for the beam was cut to take the flange of the hub and welded in place. unlike a normal bush, any play coudl be adjusted out too.
  8. Mine's currently on 273,000 (300 tdi) and still going strong - 120,000's barely run in
  9. Not just back in the day - even now. Absolutely awesome for snedding and super light. I'd pick one up over a 346 for thinning any day.
  10. Can't disagree with that I like the older 3120's sound a bit liek an old air cooled crosser at tickover.
  11. Like the others have said - chainsaw is best way we've found too.
  12. I like those
  13. maybe you back up too quick
  14. I would say you might struggle on a small, petrol, towable circular saw type processor. for the sort of volumes you are looking to process, I'd have a look at somethign liek a hakki pilke eagle or japa 100 sawbench with corkscrew splitter, go for a petrol one and either make up a trailer or drag it onto a traielr for moving it.
  15. TBH, that looks pretty good for a standard husky bar.
  16. Brian, I might know where there's a very very lightly used 3 phase Dalen that the guy could be persuaded into partign with - just outside York. Let me know if it's of interest. As far as I can see from it, it doesn't seem to be any slower than a PTO one and he reckons that runnign it on his generator it uses less fuel than a tractor would too.
  17. Plenty have tried but if it worked, surely it would be in production already. The pressure required and the forces exerted to split a piece of wood that many ways in one go are huge.
  18. Snapped a few, generally when scrub clearing and goign for it, and mostly fairly worn chains. Cracked one side tie strap once, spotted it before it snapped though. Had a fairly new one spit off once and bend a few links - never done another like it or heard of one doing it
  19. All Husky bars seem to do that
  20. I've not found them to be that great. I have a steel wedge that has a twist to it and found that to be fairly good on pretty much anything - billeting or gnarly rings.
  21. Totally agree
  22. Finally got sorted with the warranty on the Husky technicals so have gone for a set of the Husky functionals to see how they fare - they appear to be the old Pro-lights, just in a different colour. Only picked them up today so be interesting to see if they wear as well as the old style ones.
  23. An oldie, but a goodie
  24. No prob - least I could do I'll see if I get 5 min at the weekend to get a bit further with getting it in bits to see what's what and take it from there - reckon it'll have to be pretty bad to be beyond worth doing as bits seem really cheap on ebay
  25. I still reckon we should make one and stick a flapper on the top

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