Chris Sheppard

I'd agree with that. Put one of the new type vsors on earlier in the year and not only is it a lot easier to see through, but it doesn't get water collecting on the mesh half as badly as the old style ones. I'd say go for the Husky balance helmet

Did a bit of an experiment with mine today. Not had it out for a few weeks but it ran as good as usual. Filled it up, pumped primer 4/5 times one there was some resistance. Choke, pulled couple of times til it fired, choke off, pulled a couple of times and it started. Ran til it was dry, refuelled straight away, pumped primer 4/5 times once resistance felt, no choke or half throtttle, started first pull. Ran part tank through then did something else for an hour or so. Set half throttle, started second pull. Ran til empty and did the same as first time. Had I been trying to start it lke an older saw and used choke after refuelling and cold start it would have flooded in no time.

Most of the plastic parts will have a date stamped into them - it's usually a round mark with the last two numbers of the year (if it's still fairly legible you might be able to pick out the month from around the edge. Whilst it's not fool proof as parts could have been replaced over the years, if enough bits give the same year there's a reasonable chance it's right or at least fairly close.

If it was me, I'd bung a fresh filter in, have a look at the colour of the oil just to be sure and see how it goes. As the Xantia is pre electronics, it's probably cheaper/easier to go grab a complete engine from a breaker than do open heart surgery on yours.

Nice one - It's a good feeling isn't it But, surely they should be in a state of repair to go through at any time in the months between MOT's

Got one similar - was on a job that left about 25 fairly big Leylandii stumps (every one minimum of 24" diameter) and the guy was going to go at them himself with a hire machine. Funnily enough it's to go back and do with the 70hp Carlton at some point

Has it sorted it?

Don't think of it as coming to the dark side - more like seeing the light

You won't be disappointed Though if it's to replace the 261 then the 550 will still be an improvemnt I'd have thought.

Reckon Araldite would stick a patch down on canvas fairly well.

Really liking that. It's something I'd quite like myself one day.

A spur on a pro 50cc saw - doesn't sound promising

It did't become the lake district for nowt It's wet and windy here today - yesterday was meant to be but wasn't and today was meant to be better

I've been looking at this one and chainsaw winches and I'm still torn between the two. Fairly sure either will do most of what I want it to but can't just quite choose between them yet.

Cheers, looks like they have a stockist not that far from me too.

Good one Surprised no one else got that

Cheers for the replies so far Would the epoxy resin that's normally used for fibreglassing be any good? Or is it totally different stuff? It's only a couple of fairly small holes but I'd like to try and keep them in the piece, but as it's going round my kitchen sink I'd like to try and get the surface level so as not to hold water if it spills.

Am going to stick my Pedantic head on now Dave, but taking crossmembers out of the equation, the chassis rails on a Marslands one look much more similar to a genuine LR one than a richards one did last time I looked

I've seen in a couple of threads in the past where resin has been used to fill holes in a piece of timber so you can keep the surface level but still keep interesting features (One was Trollspiel's cool table with the floating balls and I think another was one of RobD's). I'd never seen it before and have a project that might benefit from it, but what I'm wondering is: Is it fairly straightforward to do? What sort of resin would I need and would I still be able to oil the piece of timber or would I need to use a different finish?

Glad it's not just me has trouble puttign it into words Know what you mean, but for instance, how often would you find something in a wood that a 20" bar from both sides wouldn't reach the middle? I suppose what I'm meaning is that I can't remember more than a couple of times I've had to bore the guts out because of having too small a bar Higher value doesn't need to be massive diameter paricularly.

Always used Oregon. Think may have had a litre of Stihl once in an emergency but otherwise always Oregon.

I've written and re-written this reply about 5 times so far and still can't get it to read how I want it to - it probably doesn't make much sense but bear with me While I can see where people are coming from regarding the more than 2 bar lengths and doing it for CS32 etc but in reality I can't think of many people who wouldn't at least have a bigger saw in the truck if they thought they were going felling big sticks. Most of the time I've used or seen someone else bore from the front it's been either for helping something big go ever easier or (more likely) for reducing fibre damage on something nice. I've used it mostly on bigger final thin Ash, taking the ears off the sides of the hinge first and more often than not coupled it to a dog tooth (whether leaning or not) and a fairly small angled gob to get it off the hinge fairly quickly. Thin hinge or not, once it's gone so far, not a lot's going to stop it anyway. CS32 is all well and good, but the few trees over those few days do not a big timber cutter make No amount of training can ever prepare someone to be able to tackle any tree in any situation, that can only ever come with experience.

Bet it's not actually made by NH - If I had to hazard a guess (and purely based on the style of the bonnet) I'd go Goldoni, but it probably isn't that simple. It has got some AGT 850W about it too though.

Slightly above - idea is to meet your back cut Nope. Agreed Nope, that's somethng different entirely. Look at it another way - if you have to ask all about it should you really thinking about trying it out based on a description online?

I've often wondered if a cordless angle grinder and slitting disc would be man enough? Only used one once on some thin steel strips and it was OK. Did see that Withams had some of the impact type cutters in recently, but don't need it enough to justify one.