Chris Sheppard

You won't be disappointed Though if it's to replace the 261 then the 550 will still be an improvemnt I'd have thought.

Reckon Araldite would stick a patch down on canvas fairly well.

Really liking that. It's something I'd quite like myself one day.

A spur on a pro 50cc saw - doesn't sound promising

It did't become the lake district for nowt It's wet and windy here today - yesterday was meant to be but wasn't and today was meant to be better

I've been looking at this one and chainsaw winches and I'm still torn between the two. Fairly sure either will do most of what I want it to but can't just quite choose between them yet.

Cheers, looks like they have a stockist not that far from me too.

Good one Surprised no one else got that

Cheers for the replies so far Would the epoxy resin that's normally used for fibreglassing be any good? Or is it totally different stuff? It's only a couple of fairly small holes but I'd like to try and keep them in the piece, but as it's going round my kitchen sink I'd like to try and get the surface level so as not to hold water if it spills.

Am going to stick my Pedantic head on now Dave, but taking crossmembers out of the equation, the chassis rails on a Marslands one look much more similar to a genuine LR one than a richards one did last time I looked

I've seen in a couple of threads in the past where resin has been used to fill holes in a piece of timber so you can keep the surface level but still keep interesting features (One was Trollspiel's cool table with the floating balls and I think another was one of RobD's). I'd never seen it before and have a project that might benefit from it, but what I'm wondering is: Is it fairly straightforward to do? What sort of resin would I need and would I still be able to oil the piece of timber or would I need to use a different finish?

Glad it's not just me has trouble puttign it into words Know what you mean, but for instance, how often would you find something in a wood that a 20" bar from both sides wouldn't reach the middle? I suppose what I'm meaning is that I can't remember more than a couple of times I've had to bore the guts out because of having too small a bar Higher value doesn't need to be massive diameter paricularly.

Always used Oregon. Think may have had a litre of Stihl once in an emergency but otherwise always Oregon.

I've written and re-written this reply about 5 times so far and still can't get it to read how I want it to - it probably doesn't make much sense but bear with me While I can see where people are coming from regarding the more than 2 bar lengths and doing it for CS32 etc but in reality I can't think of many people who wouldn't at least have a bigger saw in the truck if they thought they were going felling big sticks. Most of the time I've used or seen someone else bore from the front it's been either for helping something big go ever easier or (more likely) for reducing fibre damage on something nice. I've used it mostly on bigger final thin Ash, taking the ears off the sides of the hinge first and more often than not coupled it to a dog tooth (whether leaning or not) and a fairly small angled gob to get it off the hinge fairly quickly. Thin hinge or not, once it's gone so far, not a lot's going to stop it anyway. CS32 is all well and good, but the few trees over those few days do not a big timber cutter make No amount of training can ever prepare someone to be able to tackle any tree in any situation, that can only ever come with experience.

Bet it's not actually made by NH - If I had to hazard a guess (and purely based on the style of the bonnet) I'd go Goldoni, but it probably isn't that simple. It has got some AGT 850W about it too though.

Slightly above - idea is to meet your back cut Nope. Agreed Nope, that's somethng different entirely. Look at it another way - if you have to ask all about it should you really thinking about trying it out based on a description online?

I've often wondered if a cordless angle grinder and slitting disc would be man enough? Only used one once on some thin steel strips and it was OK. Did see that Withams had some of the impact type cutters in recently, but don't need it enough to justify one.

Last winch I bought came with a knot already in it I've never tried splicing but I do like the wedge eye sockets. Something I first saw on an igland winch, but never on any others as yet, was a sharper edge ground onto the top of the butt plate for folding the wire over and hitting with a hammer. We'd alays managed in the pat either with a decent bolster or the hammer and edge teqnique but usually over a normal flat edge and it was never the tidiest. On the Igland a couple of good hits usually did the job.

That's worth knowing, cheers

An old guy I worked with used to say to leave a fag packet's worth of hinge either side of the bore cut, so maybe not far off the 150mm. First time I took my 372 out after dropping a new pot and piston on it (several years ago now) I had a very similar situation with a biggish Scot - bar and front handle but also creased the exhaust. Still has the same exhaust now as a reminder.

That's the posh way of doing it, wouldn't be the first time we've tied a big knot in the end to finish the day off

Sounds like you boys down there get it cheap then. Yep, we had some go recently that was 9 months or so old and where the wagon usually gets thick end of 19/20T on it went out at 15 and a bit. It's not fuel till it's cut into logs though, is it? End user pays 5% for the logs but processor pays 20%. - there's a thread all about it somewhere

After a few hours sleep in his cabin, his alarm went off far too early for a Sunday morning, reminding him of the fact he had to load up his saws, trailer and tidying up gear to load up and tidy the last of the wood now the wagons had finished when all he really wanted to do was eat a big greasy fry up

I'm going for wet and slushy We were getting bitten by mozzies and midges last week - in November - What's going on?

Sorry, what I meant was bored because of the slower pace