Dean Lofthouse

I think it means the soil molecules Tommer.. Where clay molecules soak up and hold moisture, the new ones dont so water will pass through the structure of the soil ??

Probably an example of the wrong grease being used in the wrong application Rob Drylube is perfect for the application I have described where wearpads are exposed to gritty enviroments and lasts longer than grease. Dont forget, grease normally is squeezed out of where it is supposed to be lubricating very quickly, it appears to be still well greased because it is daubed all around the outside. my chipper bearings are supposed to be greased daily for that reason

The use of dry lube is a big thing now on telehandlers which do shift stuff like sand and cement, so in that enviroment it really does make a massive difference. Speed isn't really as much as a factor as pressure between bearing surfaces, a piece of grit will do as much damage on a slow high pressure grind as it would on a few light pressure grinds Like you say though, splitter aren't really used in a harsh enviroment so isn't really a big problem. I used my mewp with grease when I bought it new and infact the inner wear pads still run on grease. When I extended the booms out I cleaned all the grease off and sprayed drylube on them. I then got two pieces of welding mask glass and put a dollop of the old grease between them and squashed it flat. It ground like a good one when I slid the glass plates across each other, some really big peices of grit where in it. I admit I am a bit anal when it comes to mechanical engineering and everything has to be right and to within a thou and as a result my gear is in tip top condition. I also spend a lot of time looking at other peoples machinery which has broken down due to lack of maintanance and neglect

No its via the "quote" tab

Only problem is the site is 100m x 80m so the lime thing is a very simple answer to an otherwise nightmare of a job. About a third is woodland, a third yard and a third grassed, so it is the dream solution provided the plantings and grass can tolerate a ph rise to 10.5 ?

It did cross my mind that I am trying to educate a bunch of redneck hobo farmers

The tolerances on the splitter are huge, hence me modifying it. The side sliders have a gap of something like 3mm which seems really sloppy, I'm making new bushings to bring it down to 1mm play. The problem with allowing too much gap is when it twists to take up the play it ends up running on the very edges of the bushings, tighten up the tolerances and it runs on the whole surface of the bush spreading the forces over a larger area, so increasing the service life I've used dry lube on the mewp from new and there is no visible wear whatsoever

The site is on a slight slope with a drain trench dug at the bottom, the water stands only feet away from the drain because it cant get through the clay soil to the drain and the clay soil layer is only a foot or so thick. Land drains underneath the soil dont work either because the same happens the clay is too dense for the water to penetrate. It is suggested that once lime is added, organic material should be added ( which could be in the form of woodchip ) which I presume is to keep open the structure or feed the worms

I have only started to use it on the splitter, it was chris sheps machine I dont know what he used on it I already know the benefits of using dry lube which is PTFE and graphite based, ptfe is a huge amount better, slippier and has a better compressive lube properties than grease, but doesn't pick up grit like grease You only have to look at carbon brushes in your drill to see the properties of graphite, the linear footage covered by the brushes over a copper surface spinning at 30,000rpm must be thousands of miles

I think your right Dave just found this: When adequate quantities of lime and water are added, the pHof the soil quickly increases to above 10.5, which enables the clay particles to break down. Silica and alumina are released and react with calcium fromthe lime to form calcium-silicate-hydrates (CSH) and calcium-aluminate-hydrates (CAH). These compounds formthe matrix that contributes to the strength of lime-stabilized soil layers. As this matrix forms, the soil is transformed fromits highly expansive, undesirable natural state to a more granular, relatively impermeable material that can be compacted into a layer with significant load bearing capacity. In a properly designed system, days of mellowing and curing produce years of performance. The controlled pozzolanic reaction creates a new material that is permanent, durable, resistant to cracking, and significantly impermeable. The structural layer that forms is both strong and flexible. and a good explanation here: http://www.lime.org/LTStechbrief4pdf.pdf It's really good to know if anyone has got a yard with is clay based soil there can be drastic drainage improvements simply by adding a bit of lime ......wow !

Thats sounds good, the only question is once it has broken down the clay particles does it become a permanent thing, ie it turns it into "normal" free draining soil

There's a big grassed area down at my yard which is clay soil and always wet through. A Farmer told me to put lime on it to improve drainage, says it expands the molecules and helps Does anyone know if this is true, is it temporary and do you have to keep applying it and will the grass tolerate it

Thanks but I'm absolutely stuffed now, tommy soup and two slices of bread.....may even need a nap to sleep it off

Our lass is working so I've had to put y own dinner on

I actually believe you !!

oils even worse for attracting grit

Dust and grit will be in there too, you just cant see it. Unless grease is in a sealed enviroment, it will pick up grit blown about by the wind and then act as a grinding paste. It is now recommend for telehandlers, mewps or anything with a boom or slider to not use grease and use dry lube therefore doubling the life of the nylon bearing plates If you got some of your grease and put in under a microscope it would look like someone had stuck a minature quarry in there

Ever since these were introduced I've heard nothing but bad things about them. The dealer will probably be ok about it, they don't get chance to thoroughly check and test drive every car. Good Luck

What happened to the good old days when we could just inspect our own stuff and replace an obvious freighed winch wire or worn shackle. What worries me slightly is if there is a genuine claim is all this butt covering going to end up negating the claim in some way. After all, a loler or any other certificate is only really valid at the moment of issue, the minute you walk away it's useless

Tony, if I tidy up I can never find anything This splitter doesn't go horizontal, I wish sometimes I had something to move and lift the rings

Whatever you do Pud, stay away from Largs and if you do end up going through Largs, dont let on you know Stephen Blair

I had one of those last week David, bounced off the back of the landy parked nearby

I bet you've all got a lump hammer in the footwell for hitting the starter motor on your tractors

OOoops

Hahaha, you pair of Farmers you