Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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After clearing out my poly tunnel I found one I'd bought a while back... chucked it away - seems good in principle but I dunno never got round to using it.
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Fair bit of flexibility going on there Dave - bit of practicing me thinks
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Play it to people twice then sing it all day and see how much they can take!
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Ha ha! Yep - and it never really leaves you... always there in the background -
Yep and there's no way of changing that! Cutting and splitting firewood is hard work and unless you have a £20,000 processor it will always be hard work....
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Sorry Ben I can't read it - too old and my eyesight failing I s'pect! Don't lose your temper - I would write in a letter addressing every issue matey has brought up and counter it. I'm sure the editor would print it and won't cost you anything.
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It's a tricky question with no definate answer.... if it is just moss and some mud then it will turn a sharp chain into a very dull one over a number of cuts so although you can cut through it every time you do will be taking a bit of edge of the chain. But it also depends on how your chain is sharpened - a perfectly sharpened chain and raker combo will be far more durable/long lasting then incorrectly sharpened one. Also chain speed - I've experimented cutting through dirty wood with an old chain and slow chain speed I've found is much less damaging to the chain.... I suppose if the chain is hitting grit and sand harder it is more damaging - my experience anyways.... But a shorter answer is that running a saw through moss will not dull a chain instantly (unless there is grit in it - in that case it would!)
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John you'll be able to turn up with a small convoy of vehicles soon!
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As above I'd just go for a 36" bar to work with a 36" mill. Most important thing as ever - correct chain sharpening. Get it right and milling is a pleasure - a dull chain will make you and your chainsaw wish you'd never tried milling I have a million videos all of which can be found here http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee And a few more here [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNrEfpI89rU]Chainsawbars presents Alaskan Mill Mk III instructional video - YouTube[/ame]
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Ha ha! Excellent - a necessary purchase.
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Welcome to the forum Max - hopefully someone will give you a few days to see what the work is all about p.s. mainly dragging something from A to B!
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Good tip Alec - and look forward to vids.... I know what you mean when you're working flat out it's a real pain to film things... I force myself to but then I have the added incentive that I'm selling things and it's a good way to illustrate how they work!
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I haven't owned one but I have seen it working in the flesh.... I did a couple of shows with Loglogic (Graham and Marcus) and they had their autotrek on site. But they're not cheap - around the £40,000+vat ,mark I think? I thought it an awesome machine. Fully hydraulic and can do enormous logs. Has a slightly thicker wider band than the usual bandsaws which keeps the cut from wavering. Also I saw it cutting some knarly knotty logs... there was some waver but not much.... I notice that woodmeisers at shows almost exclusively mill straight grained softwood logs.... Loglogic are based in Devon and my advice would be to go and see them or someone close to you and have a look at the machine in person..... If you call them ask for Graham or Marcus both of which are very knowledgeable.
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Do you have a camera phone or similar Alec? A step by step vid on doing a mortise and tennon would be good
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No prob Chris they will be £165-00 I'll be retailing them for but as an introductory arbtalk offer am going to do for £130-00..... will post a thread up when this happens. I'll also have mine for sale prob for £80-00 - works fine but small bit of plastic missing from where the head hinges.... I need a shiny one for the vids!
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Ha Ha! I wish - almost the opposite as soon as I have filmed I force myself to edit the video that night or it goes to the back of the hard drive to be forgotten for ever! Hence the spurt of vids recently - am also loving speeding up the vids so you don't miss anything but is quicker and easier to watch.
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It depends on how you want to go....my tool of choice is an impact driver and 4" self tapping bolts.... joints I'm not so good on! Will do more proper jointing when I have more time. The impact driver is quick, strong and can pull things together if you haven't quite got it right! I'll stick a vid up on it soon.
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I've had a metal detector for the past 4 years and over that time I've found it to be invaluable. It can detect down to 8" and is pretty accurate at showing where the metal in a tree is (although it won't pinpoint depth). As well as good for milling it's also handy for larger trees on fence lines as you can also ring up the wood with a smaller chance of hitting something. Had a tree to mill Sat and this had some metal in it. Have found a good way to go about this as usually I would just chop into the tree with an old chain until finding the metal then messily try and prise it out.... this way you mill up to the metal from both sides.... wedge the plank off.... test then repeat. This way you still get a plank, it's quick and you don't hit whatevers in there. I'll be selling these soon - not sure on price yet but around the £150+vat mark.... [ame] [/ame]
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Get all the good boards neatly stickered and stacked.... the odd pieces leave in a warm place and you can start playing around making things with these.... ok they'll move etc but it's a good way to practice and see what you enjoy making.
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I was going to say chain but if the same set up produces a smooth board with an Alaskan..... Maybe it's the revs of the 880 - it has the power to drive the chain through smaller logs at speed... in this case maybe going with a 3/8 chain or even a .325 chain which will give more teeth per second = smoother cut.
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Great vid to watch thanks for posting
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Depends how big your timber is..... if it'll fit within the alaskan then don't worry, if some are a lot larger then mini mill is great for dropping one or both of the sides off.
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Excellent Stevie what a great set up!
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Really sorry to hear that John - I hope the treatment is effective and she makes a full recovery. The milling idea is a great one but I'm not going to be able to do anything this year.... But certainly something to think about for the future. Would be good to see all the various types of mill in action i.e. swingmill, bandsaw and chainsaw as well as a static as well as looking at how to stick and dry timber etc.
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It's a good point this - I've only ever changed a nose sprocket to change the pitch of a bar..... usually the chain is sloppy in a bar when the nose needs replacing so it's a new bar.... I wouldn't say Oregon bars are soft - I've found the powermatch bars they do are very good quality and a good price.
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Not familiar with this saw - but if it's one of the older models then the torque they produce will drive a big bar..
