Brushcutter

It does that on clay too. I think it is the tension in the wood as it drys out it just cracks especially when its young. Trick is to leave it in pole form until your ready to extract.

Lime whitebeam and wild service seem to do ok.

My thinking is that as you do the opposite side to the one facing you you bend the file a little bit giving a hooked profile.

Caledonian forestry services are worth a mention. On their new look website they have a jake mounted Kelsa/valtra on the front page.

Thing with sharpening is that it is easy to learn but takes a lot to be good at it. I've seen people go on courses and not been shown how to do it with calipers. Just do x number of strokes each side. Never was it said like this one side will always be longer. I've seen it done all from one side in a vice just doing alternate cutters; this i suppose is personal prefernce but screams hooked cutters to me. Also most people will learn to sharpen one type of chain. Normally a .325 one and i can get a bloody good .325 sharpen my 3/8 isn't as good. Same technique just the execution is subtly different. Then you've got full and semi chisel one much less forgiving of sharpening. I've also sent a guy for assessment many years ago with a husky roller guide and the assessor said to him "never seen anybody use of those before so i'll just have to take your word your using it right." Poor sharpening is a bug bear of mine but i do understand people have to start somewhere 10 years ago my sharpening was probally poor. Although the we were shown caliper sharpening and the assessor measured teeth on the chain to see if they were ok. A CS30 course is at best a day doing the actual stuff so an understanding of accurate as possible is a must but an execution of +/- 1.5mm isn't bad. However someone doing a 4 week intensive course i would expect .5mm as a standard.

Wilsons have been OK for me. They didn't have some break spares in stock so they took them off a new unit in the yard to keep me going. Was nice but did have to chase them to get them. As for roof mounts they're flexable but not great for the bigger timber. Ideal if you winch to it and then process behind the tractor and use it to stack around it. They do fall over but i've never met anybody who has done it. Like things tractor based unless you're really stupid you'll be scared and give up before the thing gets close to fallling over.

When i did my saw refresher a few months ago. I was told off and marked down on the maintenance because my saws teeth were around 1-1.5mm difference. It had never been caliper sharpened either. Admittedly i've just caliper sharpened so ever tooth is 5.45mm +/- 0.05mm but i'd say that is OCD.

I was thinking of spending 300 quid on arb trader. Now i think i'll have to get this. I'd be missing out otherwise:lol:

Make sure you check the engine is not one of the ones where the con rod goes. There is a list of number online somewhere.

Hello Are there wear pads on the extension of the botex cranes? I was watching ours being used rather than doing it and noticed the extension was rattling around in the dipping boom. Cheers Andy

It's a 92 i thought it was a 101. Yea that extra weight and reach will make it a little top tippy. It will still change the way you do everything though you will be very impressed with it. The small size means you'll get into lots of places too.

Get the 570! its not much more and that meter or reach will change the way you work.

I could think of a few sites where a mulching flail would open up rides and it would be the best tool.

It's cheaper. If your good with them you can re space and do all the understory work. It's one operator with one machine and one lot of transport costs. More than likely someone has already done the sums and gone down the mulcher route as cut & extract is more than the value of the timber.

They do make a thinning bolster set up trailer.

Cranes are an option on most of the scananavian trailers you just have the mounting point for the short king post crane. True drag trailers are a little harder to find.

A botex 10t euro trailer with breaks, steering drawbar and lights is avaiable from wilsons.

Crime busters of the sea.

Does the PTO go the right way round for a winch on the front? JAKE do a set of front wheel weights another option to balasting. Does the valve block restrict access from the roof escape hatch?

That looks amazing what is the tank on the roof? Are you using the front linkage for a weight block?

I'd go for a Moheda or a Kronos trailer with 4wd but they're expensive. At cheaper end the euro trailers from Botex are ok. They're nothing special but their older bolster design does have some advantages if doing larger timber. They have a steering draw bar as standard and they will make them as big as you like. I've got a 1m extension on mine that makes it possible for 2 bunks of 3m. Dam hard though

Oregon. Clear like the STIHL but is cheaper.

Finishing off the skidding of Chestnut that was bigger than the choakers from yesterday. Then off to fell some Larch trees..... lots of things to miss on this one: phone lines, ditches and banks, ice houses, a road, sheep, a very imporant wall.

Forwarder will pick them up. Probably need rocking on though. If they are too big to lift then they'll get ripped in half and taken to the mill as half rounds. Much easier than 3' diameter logs to work with.

Someone doesn't know it yet but the belt their compressor is being disconnected