Alex

haix, they are a bit like the ever ready bunny, they seem to last for ever. I usaly get 2yrs pluse from mine and every one else around me seems to be bying boot every 6 8 mounths ummm

The wooden stirring sticks you get when you bye coffee are the right size for cleaning your bar, they are also great for getting in to all those place when cleaning your saw and the will leave the paint behind unlike your screw driver.

I will be organising work shops at some of the TCC events this year, and lots at the UK&I finals. What I would like to know is what sort of subjects you would like them to cover? What would help you get along better or help your bussiness. Dose not have to be climbing directly. I have a few idears but more are most welcome. Alex

http://www.wtsherrill.com/ Tree sight, works by trig like the stick.

Go to a trade show or climbing comp and try as many as you can, no one person is the same shap or has the same climbing style. On your hit list, sliding bridge, adustabilty, tool carring. Try not to let cost in to the equation, a chosie made by cost will be a compramise. The best harness for you is the one you don't think about when you are wearig it, ie the most confrtable. It will pay you back every day you put it on. Good luck.

You will find this statement to be a ture one, hang on for it.

Got to be the grcs for me, ok it costs but the build quality is great, engerned not just beefed up. The GRCS is all so easyer to use day to day. Ok the hobbs is cheaper but to lift it a two man job, to slack tend the device. I reconed the GRCS to a friend and he said the other day it was the best £1500 he spent that year for sure, payed for it self in no time, and the rigging kit is wearing better and there for lasting longer.

ok come on that's no fair mr B arrr

At present yes, it will run on 11-13mm i belive, but don't quote me on that.

I use an 11mm ice, and 13mm xtc I would think the size of the rope would effect the sesitviy and the out of the box performance, but when clutch was run in the diffence would be less noticable. The smaller the rope diamiter the sooner you will need a new clutch. The size of the eye splice would have more of the effect. The wooden bit only comes in to play when decending fully loaded so not needed for move ment when branch walking. so the friction comes from the device first like the positioner. I use a swivel on my bridge, so yes it would work fine and helps keeping the rope running ture in and out of the device.

New forest, shackel needs to be rated and needs to be captively locked off, a mascine screw would be better than a thumb screw, use a locking compond or lock nut, see komet or art stuff for reffence. a small maillion might work better for you as a replace ment for the small ring and reduce wear, VDUBEN The system as you have show is loading that kad incorectly, that shape needs to be loaded down the spine, the set up has move 50% of the load toward the gate. Find a kab with a shape deising to have load accross the top radius or try a mallion delta.

Chip chip here we go It works quite diffrently to any thing else, but in many respects more like a fair lead hitch, the lock jack to be a replacement to the balck hitch and operates simlary in the slack take up. Spyder works more like a fair lead hich in that the move ment to take up slack is much the same. The spyder will like the lockjack eat any slack in the rope and move frealy along the rope until fully loaded so no change there, and has the same habit of nicking slack back when you are picting if you don't put a slip knot above it. In the tree branch walking you can lead your climb by pull the rope above the device as the lock jack but the angle is less acute and there for an improvement, the on off system i found tuff at first but with time instink and practie i was gettig there, i did find it hard to operat left handed as you have to reach over the rope to get to the breack. The divce was harder to run on and let out on swing, but that just might meen more time to master the trick of it. Over all I can see it apealing to vt type climbers more than the lock jack but havig to thread the dvice on from he end of the rope is a pain but so many vt type user realy seem to take the hitch off their line at all often so may be thats a smaller deal. So then summary good in the tree, More compact and nearter system less lightly to 3 way load a kab not as good on long desents, Hard to use left handed can't put it on mid line Cheers to Nod for test drive, we will have an articl out on this at some point, but any one that knows us will have a better idear of time scale on that.

Holy grail this one, as i use mecanical devices in preffence to a hitch most of the time find the gripers a pain when they start to peal. Have tried alsorts, Bakco had some good prunning gloves thin leather palm and fingures and cotton back, the Range do a copy for £3 in yellow sold as engires gloves last about 4-6 mounths. Petzl gloves are nice good rope handerling but priced at £15 with a 3-4 mouth life ummm. Found some irwin gloves have used the extrem ones on the groud for a year or two now have been through 2 pairs in that time, and now trying the genreal constution glove in the tree, so far very good. http://www.irwin.com about £12-£15 a pair but last the toils of arb work and good in wet and now cold. Good tip to get your coins worth is to have grown glove and a tree glove and don't f**k the tree gloves up on the deck.

Currently 11mm pro statick (orange purple flec) ederwise. Nise line softer than most. will leave it in the tree then for rescue access and to retive friction saver to save crashing it out, or access when it gets stuck. I will footlock in on my climbing line in small trees, to save cambium, and time it would tack to install saver from ground. always footlock tail in DRT work of access line in some cassess deepending on the tree and the job spec. Used beal 11mm ok but gets stiff with use.

Horses for cuases, 12" day to day 16" for bigger timber and tack down,

Yep it is to easy to over tighten the buggers.

Any one climbing on it, if so whats the verdict. Cheers

Ps Yale must be consern as they are selling less and less on the real these days it either is prestreached flacked in a bag or flack in to a bulck box.

Blaze has had a rep for twist, best recomendation is to work it on a long desent and then milk the rope by tieing of one end and working a 6 rap prusic loop down it. your hitch will kink the line a bit but not that much.

338 well better than the 335 but they are not there yet. Revs like hell with the etra cc punch but dose not seem to diliver the grunt a 200t will. the spark cover is still vunrable and the chain break has problems as do the start recoil. Get a 200t even if you have a real husq fetish.

Drew Thats life a bit of rope managment and care always help. Do you coil your rope or store in a rope bag?

kevin that is an open face cut. as for what is taught mr b stander felling cut 1/4 deep sink cut with parell 1 -2" hinge. split level cut, using a felling bar for pushing against slitly back or side wait tree, and triger cut for trees waited with the fall. as for what height to fell and how deep to sink, deepens on the job you are doing, It is good to fell low if you want leverage of a bar or a wedge. but as you say if your pulling a stump out etc... There are many different cuts out there for alsorts of problems but with forestry going by the way side the skill are lost on most arb guys, as the will climb and take down before even going that rout. Key to all of them is to take time and get it right, because when it gose wrong when you rush you will sure as hell wast loads more time getting it unstuck or reparing the fence etc..

curf cuts good for stopping sap wood tear out or wood pull out from buttrests. well worth it in a tree depening on what your cuting and size and wait of bow or section. will letter box a felling cut when felling a pole, keeps control but reduce pull needed, as two 2" thick hinges is always better than a long thin hinge.

http://www.aie.org.uk/aie_subjects/aie_sub_bats.html http://www.tree.org

if we went with darwin on this one, insurance would go through the roof...