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Jamie

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Everything posted by Jamie

  1. Jamie

    Climbing Kit

    forgot about them, on my climbing course we were belayed up a pole.... Jamie
  2. Jamie

    Climbing Kit

    harness, ropes, carabiners, split tails cambium saver Jamie
  3. looks very nice, perhaps a bit too detailed for us on the ground? good reference material. Jamie
  4. http://www.fuelwood.co.uk/woodline.html take one WL10 multipla, add a couple of push fit hydraulic couplings and it easily becomes two bits for easy movement, take off the handle shield and bolt the two handles together and you have a much more useable machine. its light enough for two guys to easily shift. two parts makes it that bit easier. Jamie
  5. http://pl.youtube.com/watch?v=pSo-_TavE1U Jamie
  6. Take one custom spliced by mcfarlane throwline girth hitch throwline onto throwbag, take a bight through teh metal ring and throw Jamie
  7. your basic saw use. 30 and 31, climbing and then use of a sw from a rope and harness 38 39. after getting teh basic tickets get in with a good crew and go from there, ask lots, watch lots, cut lots. become a good cutter. learn to SHARPEN a saw, not go through the motions. work up from there. jamie
  8. if the half hitch slips but the bowline / timber hitch etc holds you'll have a nice overhand knot in your line. Jamie
  9. i tried gettign western hemlock for my sister last year. something different and much nicer than spruce i think Jamie
  10. i told the girlfriend i'd get her family one from teh plantation behind us at work. she said that that is stealing, i then mentioned the other 100,00 in teh plantation and maybe we'd just take a regen from the edge. Jamie
  11. i use a coathanger i bent over. i'll add a picture, it has a loop on the end for pullling on or attaching a crab to a decent anchor point and massaging the splice, i.e pull the splice over the tapered tail not the tail through the splice.

     

    until you get the hang of it try adding an extra few inches to teh end of the taper, with this extra you can further reduce EACH strand by about half to allow it to slide through the rope easily. you don't always have to do this. XTC etc splices easier as arbormaster has a few chunky plastic yarns running through eash strand.

     

    here is my wire fid

  12. aye why not. keep thinking of trying to make some racing spikes Jamie
  13. we also get a lot of our parts from a motor factors. don't think they have offices 'down south' (the shire) but Dingbro. they are good and cheap(ish) Jamie
  14. light browny grey, water Black...used engine oil (lol) Jamie
  15. Jamie

    Allotment

    Woodchip path, where do you get your chip from????? Jamie
  16. we run ours in 1000, we pic the tractor off of tickover as opposed to running at 540 and higher revs. after 15 years of use the gaffa says it's hs most reliable bit of kit. Jamie
  17. What do i think society needs? Jamie
  18. i was given one, i cleaned it up, sharpened the chain sold it for 70 quid. other than that i can't help you Jamie
  19. firefox Jamie
  20. I've milked off about ten inches from my 8 meter XTC line (i climb huge trees me) i don't cut the excess off, no need in my eyes as its strength is in the cover. Jamie
  21. my ipod, or my camera, its a wee canon 350d, or my cheese slice but my favorite non gadget invention is the female contraceptive pill:001_tt1: Jamie
  22. I'm not a fan or amrlow, XTC i find milks too much, samson is bomb proof if you ask me and both ends can be spliced Jamie
  23. When splicing the most important things to find out are:

     

    *the construction:- what kind of braid / plait, is the core, does the core and the sheath share the load

    *the materials used:- polyester and nylon are spliced differently to kevlar, duyneema vectran etc

     

    Yales XTC is a class one 16strand (arb line, but end use doesn't matter to a rope or a splice) so both the New England (hi vee) or Samsons (arbormaster) directions are A-OK to use. i couldn't find Yales but the differences in measurements is tiny. here are New Englands hi vee directionsand directions for samsons arbormaster

     

    When trying to redesign splices you'll also need to think about how you are going to use the splice any problems with particular techniques. how the rope is made and using its construction you can make no end of tools. for example the core in XTC, Arbormaster, HI vee is there only to keep the rope round, all the strength is in the sheath (hence there is no core in the eye).

     

    hope that helps some.

     

    Jamie

  24. when the proverbial hits the fan and someone leaves everything (hitch cords etc )in the ayrd apart from one climbing line it means you can still get on with the job. i'm talking from experience Jamie
  25. what did you get? i like to poke around yacht chandlers looking for stuff, my local one has a bin of short lengths of rope at cheap prices which is great to practice on.

     

    i spliced up the armor prus with a standard doublebraid splice. i'm not happy with it like that in the slightest. unfortunatly steve could only spare a short length. i think i may have to try and blag some more off of Tony at donaghys.

     

    for eye to eye cords, remember as the splice is buried the cord will shorten as it has to stretch round the increased quantity of rope. i keep meaning to measure the slack taken up and note down the difference. also see the note from samson i posted in your thread. being teh geek that i am i've printed off all samsons, yales, new englands directions. I find samson the best ones to follow, yale measure out the taper slightly differently on Dbraids.

     

    on 10mm cord i've found the taper is just the right length to mark out where to tie my blakes. it seems to be the perfect length on a butterfly.

     

    i think you may have to ask me specifics as i'll just rabbit on in a random fashion otherwise.

     

    Jamie

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