Ian Leach
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Everything posted by Ian Leach
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New project, can’t cut straight lines!
Ian Leach replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Have you checked if your saw fence and blade are at 90° angles when I buy any equipment I always check and set up with a set square. I also try and use a steel rule or the same tape measure as you can get different measurements. -
Forgot to add, I recessed the mirror and the backing board into the timber, paper taped it off and added some locking latches.i done it this way so the mirror could be replaced. I also built a frame on the back for a bit more stability. I also done it this way because I've seen a few mirrors in craft places where some people just glue or silicone the mirror to it, it's not to my liking messy and lacking .
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If you have a router make a sled for it.
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I have this one, has done me well over the years, https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-9403-2-4-electric-belt-sander-240v/73893
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Been looking at starting to learn how to play, what would people recommend. Was thinking bass. I'm also a lefty . Any tips.
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Best process to finish and treat elm timber
Ian Leach replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Osmo Polyx Oil | Original Polyx Hardwax Oil from Osmo WWW.WOOD-FINISHES-DIRECT.COM Buy Osmo Polyx Oil. Easy to apply and extremely strong, Osmo oil is perfect for... Just noticed they do a gloss, maybe better for the slide, grab a sample pot and try. -
Best process to finish and treat elm timber
Ian Leach replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Neat, it's probably not as hard wearing as the one above but easier to repair if damaged. I don't like mixing with turps tbh, but that's just my preference. -
Best process to finish and treat elm timber
Ian Leach replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
As above or osmo polyx oil, -
Best process to finish and treat elm timber
Ian Leach replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
I use this guy for all my resin and pigments, Mr Resin Limited MRRESIN.COM Home for all your resin casting and resin art needs. Silicone moulds, HDPE... -
Titebond or gorilla glue I would use, dowels or biscuits for a simple join
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Chainsaws are not dangerous it's the user, be it not proper PPE , training. Personally if you buy one from b&q or elsewhere you should be made to buy a days training in safe use/ maintenance, be it cutting fire wood or felling a small tree for a diyer .
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Could you pm me sizes and cost, probably delivery too, GL1 area
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Any for sale
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I would say sapele.
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£45 to cheap, personally I wouldn't use c.a glue, definitely go down the resin route to fill , that wouldn't cost much more for that small amount. Nice slab of timber tho.
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Maybe not to everyone's taste but I enjoyed this fight scene.
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I had one, went in for keyhole came out with a 4" scar about 6 weeks then light duties cause the mesh has to knit together.
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I thought you'll still have e5 premium for cars below 2011 , E10 for above . So no one should have any problems apart from more expensive.
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As above really Josh, if your doing draw boring I would have a practice on smaller joints for your first time. But when done right solid joints.
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It can be done but my worry would be shrinkageand any checking when green . I personally would over engineer any building I would make. But Swedish pine is slower growing than the uk and denser growth rings so you'll have that on your side.
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I got some bargins on the sale.
