How much are your logs

[firewood]

good argument.....................but...........................

 

weights and measures, trading standards and anyone else with some legal bee in their bonnet will want some kind of exact measure, either by weight or volume. (my own experience of an incident when i first started over 10 yrs ago)

 

the description of a "load" is apparently not good enough.

 

to quote the smarties, it is sold by weight. it does not say " a load of sweets" or "medium quantity" etc. etc. etc

 

 

When I worked as a transport manager for a tipper firm we often provided services or materials by the load (in this case 8 wheeler loads)

 

We always stipulated "1 load as measured by the customer" on all our conveyance notes. This meant that once the customer had signed the ticket for delivery there was no quibbling about weight or volume and no arguments.

[Saw-sick Steve]

i know what you mean mate, if it comes to it i will by a set of scales, moisture content 1 log on the day do some kind of arithmatic thingy and weigh each bag and stamp and date it like your fruit and veg.

 

But even then the weight will vary depending on the type of wood, has to be a volume thing if at all, and as said above I've almost given up trying to explain what a m3 is.

For what its worth, 150quid for a tranny load of well seasoned hardwood,

120 for well seasoned softwood.

[log supplier]

wouldnt you think that all these people that are installing a log burner or open fire would do a bit a research into the costs and volumes of buying logs???

iv ad people asking me how big is a transit tipper level load???

ceases to amaze me sometimes:confused1:

[Rob D]

I charge £60-00 for a bulk builders bag of hardwood and tell people it is just under a cubic yard.

 

But I will be switching next year to cubic meter fully vented bags as the logs in the bottom of the dumpy bags (on a few) have gone mouldy.

 

I'm getting loads of return customers from last year as well as plenty of new ones. The local woodburning center reccommends my logs and uses them themselves.

 

I think the key for the log trade is to build a customer base. They then have had your logs, know how much they use and saves phone time.

[davetaz]

wouldnt you think that all these people that are installing a log burner or open fire would do a bit a research into the costs and volumes of buying logs???

 

I supplied a barrow bag of logs to a customer with a brand new log burner. I explained that ideally they should be put in shed or some where to keep them dry as they can go abit damp if left in the sack.

Any way, they ordered 5 sacks last week, which I delivered. Customer then explains the glass on her sparkling new stove was going black, and it's not supposed to. So they called the installer who does a moisture content check on my logs and explains to her they are damp (poplar no more than 20% mc) and shows her a sack of kiln dried logs which he then lights the fire with - glass stays clean. Advice from the installer is to burn kiln dried logs (according to customer his meter showed 0%mc) to prevent glass going black - I then tell her where she can get them from and nearly passes out at the price, £6 for a plastic bag with about 7 pieces of wood in them, works out to be three times more expensive than my logs! She has resorted to putting my logs (20%mc) in the Aga warming oven before putting them in the log burner!

[detritus21]

Kiln dried logs if they have been left out for any length of time will have some moisture content there is no way that it will be 0% moisture content. I buy in Kiln Dried off cuts for making kindling and firewood blocks. These read anywhere between 5 and 15% moisture depending on how long they have sat in the open.

 

The glass on an airwash stove will still soot up regardless of what you burn. The harder you burn the logs the less soot you get to the point where when you burn it hot enough it will start to burn the deposits off the glass quicker than they are formed. On a better stove what you should find is you only need a damp cloth to wipe the soot away when it is cool. On our cheapo stove in the front room we require proper nasty glass cleaner.

 

On an aside no one will buy my kiln dried blocks because they burn to quick apparently. No one has ever burnt them but they burn to quick Wait till firewood supplies start getting low and I'll charge an arm and a leg for the blocks.

[davetaz]

I told the customer just what you've said, I think the installer was trying to baffle her with science...... but she still bought my logs anyway:001_smile:

[widmere]

This is a realy difficult one - I was talking to a big supplier of kiln dried firewood who confessed that the logs in the centre of the drying heap were significantly wetter than the outside. I dread to think of the cost of producing certified bulk tinder dry hard wood firewood. If your bulk wood was any where near 20% I would say it was a first class product. I know what I sell and if anyone wants to critisize it I would without hestation collect un burnt wood and make a full refund and suggets that the stove purveyor sources the wood fuel for it.

[woodrascal]

I supplied a barrow bag of logs to a customer with a brand new log burner.

What type of burner is it Dave?

[Dean Lofthouse]

Glass will soot up if the air intake is shut oof a bit to reduce the burn, it only stays clear if you have it on full.

 

All wood will have a moisture content of some sort, but unless you kiln dry or store in the airing cupboard even two year undercover seasoned is no less than 18%