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woodrascal

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  1. Don't most stove manufacturers advise against burning PET Coke? (it voids the warranty)
  2. A properly designed, clean burning woodstove used correctly with decent, dry fuel will burn off most of the volatiles produced by the combustion of wood in the stoves firebox - including any 'oils' mentioned in the book. This is true for either hard or softwood. If you are burning any wood be it hard or soft and you are getting excessive deposits in the flueway there is something wrong with your fuel, your stove or the way you are using it. We've got several stoves and some years ago I tried an experiment by burning exclusively dry softwood in one of them and a mixture of dry oak, ash and beech in another. I monitored the build up of deposits in both flueways . There was NO real difference between the two - perhaps a bit more fine grey flyash in the 'softwood' flue but no build up of tar or excessive soot.
  3. No you don't if you burn dry wood in a good stove with a sensible amount of air...
  4. Hunter are apparently developing it... Hunter Stoves
  5. We've got six stoves in the house - only ever had five lit at one time though. When five are going it is quite a job to feed them all (three have quite small fireboxes). Over the Christmas period we usually had four burning for long periods. By the way, one of the stoves is in our bedroom - fabulous on really bitterly cold winter nights, lovely...
  6. 95% bone dry Ash, Oak and Hawthorn with a bit of Larch as kindling.
  7. I'm finding this 'hazing' of the glass a problem in my Vision 500. I have modified the stove to burn cleaner by replacing the steel baffle with vermiculite board and adding an adjustable pre-heated tertiary air supply. It burns so much cleaner but the fly ash is melting into the glass due to the very high firebox temperatures.
  8. If it's kept off the ground, exposed to the sun and has a decent flow of air through it, those three types of wood should last for many years. If it's lying on the ground, in a sheltered, shaded spot with rain pouring on it for most of the time, it won't last very long at all.
  9. There's lots of teams doing them on Ebay. I buy the big sheets (I've got six stoves...) but you can get any size you need. Here's a link to one supplier : Vermiculite Fireboard
  10. And what happens when all the rubbish coming out of your flue comes down to earth? 🙄
  11. A 'standard' wood stove can't reach the temps required to get rid of the dangerous emisssions. You illustrate how much control, sophisticated combustion and monitoring there is in an industrial power plant - you don't get that with a normal box stove.
  12. We've got two. In our place they work...
  13. This is from the Navitron site - Chipboard - Definitely do not burn in a woodstove- gives off toxic formaldehyde fumes - smells really bad as well as being highly toxic, and carcinogenic. Ref.1 suggests that chipboard can be burnt safely at 800C Particle Board (eg MDF) - Do not burn - highly toxic, gives off toxic formaldehyde and other toxic fumes. Smells really bad when burnt. Carcinogenic. Plywood - Definitely do not burn in a woodstove - gives off toxic formaldehyde and/or dioxins formed by reactions with phenolic glues (perhaps not all plywoods will have phenolic glues,but how would you know?). Ref.1 suggests that plywood can be burned safely at over 600C. I assume on a scale of bad to not so bad, chipboard and particle board are worst, whereas plywood and stirling board/fibreboard are not as bad 'Tanalised' Timber eg roof battens, fencing, fenceposts - Difficult to know with this one. If it has the new type of pressure treatment called 'ACQ' - it has copper compounds and 'quat' - a disinfectant (ref2) so it doesn't sound like it's a problem - in which case offcuts of new materials should be fine. Old tanolised goods may have been subject to the 'CCA' treatment which involved aresenic, which is highly toxic, and therefore shouldn't be burned Railway sleepers - If they are untreated hardwood, there's no problem. If they are are ACQ treated (ie relatively new) then they should be no problem. If they are 'CCA' treated, then you should not burn for the reasons outlined above. Painted Wood - Wood painted before the mid-70s may have traces of lead(ref.3). Lead can colour paint white, yellow, red, yellow, orange,grey, green or possibly red - so you can't just exclude one particular colour. If the wood is was painted with paint purchased after the mid70s, then I assume it's ok to burn (nb, you may have painted something last year with some left over paint from the early 70s).

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