woodrascal

Yes

Looks like Midtherm Matt Black HT-S Midtherm

Slatted, and as mentioned above with good air flow helped by a windy situation. We've got seven stores and the two best ones for speed of drying are south facing with a strong, prevailing westerly wind.

I've been told that the Burleys have such a high firebox temp (along with a number of other stoves) that the surface of the inner glass panel starts to soften. The tertiary air jets which help create the Burley 'fireball' stir up some fly-ash which then sticks to the glass surface. Once the temp drops in the stove, the glass re-solidifies, trapping some of the fly-ash in the glass and causes this 'hazing'. Some people have blocked up the jets which are pointed towards the glass and this seems to have helped the problem. Incidentally, I've modified our Clearview Vision 500 by fitting an adjustable tertiary air feed at the rear of the stove. On 'full throttle' this feed had the effect of making the firebox like a blast furnace, which like the Burleys, hazed up the glass. By backing off the tertiary I now get a much cleaner burn and no hazing.

Our oldest is a 2002 Charnwood Country 4 - still in mint condition

Don't most stove manufacturers advise against burning PET Coke? (it voids the warranty)

A properly designed, clean burning woodstove used correctly with decent, dry fuel will burn off most of the volatiles produced by the combustion of wood in the stoves firebox - including any 'oils' mentioned in the book. This is true for either hard or softwood. If you are burning any wood be it hard or soft and you are getting excessive deposits in the flueway there is something wrong with your fuel, your stove or the way you are using it. We've got several stoves and some years ago I tried an experiment by burning exclusively dry softwood in one of them and a mixture of dry oak, ash and beech in another. I monitored the build up of deposits in both flueways . There was NO real difference between the two - perhaps a bit more fine grey flyash in the 'softwood' flue but no build up of tar or excessive soot.

No you don't if you burn dry wood in a good stove with a sensible amount of air...

Hunter are apparently developing it... Hunter Stoves

We've got six stoves in the house - only ever had five lit at one time though. When five are going it is quite a job to feed them all (three have quite small fireboxes). Over the Christmas period we usually had four burning for long periods. By the way, one of the stoves is in our bedroom - fabulous on really bitterly cold winter nights, lovely...

95% bone dry Ash, Oak and Hawthorn with a bit of Larch as kindling.

I'm finding this 'hazing' of the glass a problem in my Vision 500. I have modified the stove to burn cleaner by replacing the steel baffle with vermiculite board and adding an adjustable pre-heated tertiary air supply. It burns so much cleaner but the fly ash is melting into the glass due to the very high firebox temperatures.

Who is your supplier Sophia?

If it's kept off the ground, exposed to the sun and has a decent flow of air through it, those three types of wood should last for many years. If it's lying on the ground, in a sheltered, shaded spot with rain pouring on it for most of the time, it won't last very long at all.

There's lots of teams doing them on Ebay. I buy the big sheets (I've got six stoves...) but you can get any size you need. Here's a link to one supplier : Vermiculite Fireboard

And what happens when all the rubbish coming out of your flue comes down to earth? ?

A 'standard' wood stove can't reach the temps required to get rid of the dangerous emisssions. You illustrate how much control, sophisticated combustion and monitoring there is in an industrial power plant - you don't get that with a normal box stove.

Have you any kids, or neighbours...?

We've got two. In our place they work...

This is from the Navitron site - Chipboard - Definitely do not burn in a woodstove- gives off toxic formaldehyde fumes - smells really bad as well as being highly toxic, and carcinogenic. Ref.1 suggests that chipboard can be burnt safely at 800C Particle Board (eg MDF) - Do not burn - highly toxic, gives off toxic formaldehyde and other toxic fumes. Smells really bad when burnt. Carcinogenic. Plywood - Definitely do not burn in a woodstove - gives off toxic formaldehyde and/or dioxins formed by reactions with phenolic glues (perhaps not all plywoods will have phenolic glues,but how would you know?). Ref.1 suggests that plywood can be burned safely at over 600C. I assume on a scale of bad to not so bad, chipboard and particle board are worst, whereas plywood and stirling board/fibreboard are not as bad 'Tanalised' Timber eg roof battens, fencing, fenceposts - Difficult to know with this one. If it has the new type of pressure treatment called 'ACQ' - it has copper compounds and 'quat' - a disinfectant (ref2) so it doesn't sound like it's a problem - in which case offcuts of new materials should be fine. Old tanolised goods may have been subject to the 'CCA' treatment which involved aresenic, which is highly toxic, and therefore shouldn't be burned Railway sleepers - If they are untreated hardwood, there's no problem. If they are are ACQ treated (ie relatively new) then they should be no problem. If they are 'CCA' treated, then you should not burn for the reasons outlined above. Painted Wood - Wood painted before the mid-70s may have traces of lead(ref.3). Lead can colour paint white, yellow, red, yellow, orange,grey, green or possibly red - so you can't just exclude one particular colour. If the wood is was painted with paint purchased after the mid70s, then I assume it's ok to burn (nb, you may have painted something last year with some left over paint from the early 70s).

We've got one too Must admit I've not noticed much ash dropping into the ashpan on ours when using softwood. Mind you I do usually mix it with a bit of Ash and Oak.

Have you got any neighbours...?

What stove are you using Ashes?

We live in an old stone farmhouse and the difference in the heat generated from a stove compared to having rads working flat out is like chalk and cheese. The heat from our stoves seems to seep into the whole fabric of the house, driving out dampness and radiating a gentle overall warmth - nothing like it

Dry Beech is my favourite, but any dry wood is good. I like to mix hard and softwood in our stoves. Larch and Sitka mixed with some Ash and Hawthorn makes for a blisteringly hot fire with a great flame picture. Oh and dry Birch is fabulous for flame pictures when used in a stove - a lot of the decent stove manufacturers use it for their brochure photos.