Stihl 2 stroke oil

[Stubby]

Sort this out will you TCD !

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Where did you see that?

 

Was just reading about the 560XP and it said Husqvarna oil at 2%, or any JASO FB at 3%.

 

JASO FB is the lowest standard for 2 stroke o though?

 

There you go; FB @ 3%. The better the basestock the lower the friction and therefore temperatures. Higher thermally stable basestock resists breakdown in the ring area and so provides improved compression and more scuff resistance. Add FC/FD detergents to further reduce residue build-up, altho cleanliness is a function of basestock quality as much as anything else. Basically, the better the basestock, the less additives / detergents etc required.

[Haironyourchest]

Eh?! One minute you say "they're all the same thing anyway" and the next "we should be using premium".

 

FTR, whilst a piston ring doesn't have a brain, it WILL 'know' the difference between oils - big time.

 

Saying it doesn't is totally incorrect.

 

Yes, wasn't clear, sorry - I meant there is no difference between one brand or another at the same level of "quality", to be precise: Stihl's "premium" oil (HP Ultra) is the same as Husqvarna "Premium" oil, (XP) - and Stihl's "mid level oil" (HP Super) is the same thing as Husqvarna mid range (LS) and so it goes. My point, badly put, was that all the oil brands sell a range of "quality levels", and, provided you know which level you are on, it matters not which brand you choose. Whatever brand you want to go with, just buy their utmost premium super duper oil, and your machines will be ok.

[Mark Bolam]

I've always run my kit on cheapo Stihl red, including 560 and 540, with no issues, ever.

I'm pretty anal about my mix, always use one shots for convenience and exactly 5l.

Is it worth me upgrading to the better stuff?

[Ironbark]

There you go; FB @ 3%. The better the basestock the lower the friction and therefore temperatures. Higher thermally stable basestock resists breakdown in the ring area and so provides improved compression and more scuff resistance. Add FC/FD detergents to further reduce residue build-up, altho cleanliness is a function of basestock quality as much as anything else. Basically, the better the basestock, the less additives / detergents etc required.

 

Thanks. I get that part, but what I was asking was where is this stated in the operating manual?

Latest gen autotune saws from S,H and D all state NOT to use mineral base 2 cycle oil in these engines.

 

Seems reading the instruction / owners manual is a lost art.

 

All I can see is use FB which is the lowest spec and would be mineral base?

 

Not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely interested. Thanks.

[njm]

Thanks. I get that part, but what I was asking was where is this stated in the operating manual?

 

 

All I can see is use FB which is the lowest spec and would be mineral base?

 

Not trying to be argumentative, just genuinely interested. Thanks.

 

Husqvarna and Stihl state that all there 2 stoke oils are suitable for use in there 2 stroke engines , i personally will not use there top of the range BIO 2 stroke oils , HP Super or LS if i am not running Aspen .

Edited April 16, 2016 by njm
info

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

I've always run my kit on cheapo Stihl red, including 560 and 540, with no issues, ever.

I'm pretty anal about my mix, always use one shots for convenience and exactly 5l.

Is it worth me upgrading to the better stuff?

 

Imo yes, especially as HP Super is only pennies more from the likes of Mole Valley Farmers. Red HP stinks like hell imo.

 

Out of interest do you use Producer gasoline or Supermarket brand?

[Mark Bolam]

Neither John Boy, I use petrol.

[Mark Bolam]

Seriously, mainly BP, supermarket if I'm caught out low.

I'm happy to switch, if I can't absorb 50p for a can full I should pack in.

I'm more concerned about the ramifications of switching from one to the other after several hundred tankfuls?

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Seriously, mainly BP, supermarket if I'm caught out low.

I'm happy to switch, if I can't absorb 50p for a can full I should pack in.

I'm more concerned about the ramifications of switching from one to the other after several hundred tankfuls?

 

Ah, now interestingly, I think BP did indeed have lower ethanol content than 5%. I got a hunch that the combination of oil quality and ethanol burn are big factors in all the goings on...