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Fiskars Xsharp / X27


djbobbins
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I keep a sharp hatchet for trimming things but found a sharp splitting axe no great advantage and it tended to jam in the cut worse. My theory, which is only mine apparently, was that a slightly dull axe crushed the fibres as it initiated the split, whereas a sharp axe just parted them, sank deeper and the friction on the sides caused it to stick worse.

 

That's the theory I read in the firewood handbook mentioned in another thread, seems to work for me and means I don't have to feel bad about not sharpening my tatty old maul.:thumbup1:

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That's the theory I read in the firewood handbook mentioned in another thread, seems to work for me and means I don't have to feel bad about not sharpening my tatty old maul.:thumbup1:

 

 

Sharpening angle, thickness of the blade and technique makes all the difference.

 

Splitting with finesse is the true and only way to enlightenment. Om!

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I use the sharpening steel for the kitchen knives and occasionally the fine oil stone to keep it tip-top.

 

 

I also wouldn't compare my X27 with a maul. From my experience the sharp blade penetrates easily then the clever shaped casting and weight of the head muller the piece I'm splitting.

Found it so good (efficient) I bought the smaller X17 for everyday......and all day use.

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Use a flat file plus final honing on 400g wet and dry stuck to a flat piece of plywood for final honing. Use this for all axes including the excellent X27 (which needs to be sharp imho)

Incidentally the purchase of the X27 sold me on Fiskars axes and I also use the x15 as a general woodland axe. The X15 is the largest of the Fiskars chopping axes sold in the UK but is being discontinued (they seem to be concentrating on small hatchets or the larger splitting axes). The X15 is again excellent in my opinion and if you are quick you can find them on ebay for circa £25 including post which is a bargain.

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Use a flat file plus final honing on 400g wet and dry stuck to a flat piece of plywood for final honing. Use this for all axes including the excellent X27 (which needs to be sharp imho)

Incidentally the purchase of the X27 sold me on Fiskars axes and I also use the x15 as a general woodland axe. The X15 is the largest of the Fiskars chopping axes sold in the UK but is being discontinued (they seem to be concentrating on small hatchets or the larger splitting axes). The X15 is again excellent in my opinion and if you are quick you can find them on ebay for circa £25 including post which is a bargain.

 

Hi SAW what do you use the X15 for then I pick up a small FISKARS at car boot very cheap thanks Jon

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Does a splitting axe need to be sharp? I have an x27 and it's good, but it's not cutting anything, just splitting.

 

Totally agree with you and Openspaceman on this.

I have never sharpened my X27 from the day I bought it and it seems to produce a shock through the wood that will open up even the most difficult logs.

 

Together with using an old tyre to contain the logs and prevent it becoming stuck in the block below, I find that if it does become stuck it is very easy to pull it out. I think that this is partly due to the lack of razor sharpness and partly due to the small head compared with grandfather's old axe

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Totally agree with you and Openspaceman on this.

I have never sharpened my X27 from the day I bought it and it seems to produce a shock through the wood that will open up even the most difficult logs.

 

Together with using an old tyre to contain the logs and prevent it becoming stuck in the block below, I find that if it does become stuck it is very easy to pull it out. I think that this is partly due to the lack of razor sharpness and partly due to the small head compared with grandfather's old axe

 

Or partly due to the Teflon coating on the cheeks ?

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