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Everything posted by william127

  1. I'd just use a powered pole saw, from the outside. Couple of 8x4s on the roofs, for protection only, cut sensible sized pieces, someone else holding/steadying with long armed pruner. Cut it down until it's as low as is sensible between the garages, the cut some slots in the top of the stumps with the pole saw, then spray something appropriate on them.
  2. All sorted now thanks, back to the manky arb waste, which I have the kit to handle. Cheers though ๐Ÿ‘
  3. I've just come across this old post of mine. These were a great buy, moved tons of timber, more positive grip than with the ripper tooth. One of the teeth has snapped off but after an acceptable amount of work, especially given the strain that they are under when gripping timber in from an angle. And at this price, you could easily keep a spare set! I'd recommend them๐Ÿ‘
  4. Where are you and how much for the thumb? Cheers
  5. Smacked goolies and dented cars, 2 more reasons to screw an old tyre to your chopping block! Once you've done it you wont go back. Straight ash is generally a pleasure to split, until it's really dry, then it can be a bit too hard
  6. Cheers, I'll start looking for an engine๐Ÿ‘Œ I've more than had my money's worth out of my chipper but the engine has let it down by being really unreliable recently. I dont use it much, which is part of the problem, so I've been thinking of getting shot but I think I'll look properly into this. Especially with a 50% power upgrade!
  7. Looks good, I might give my Hyundai another chance and do that! Its basically the same machine so should work fine. Did you have to change the drive wheel(s) to make it run at the correct speed, or did it just work ok? Cheers
  8. That's good going๐Ÿ‘Œ Some machines need another hours meter on them- the how much time it's saved you hours meter! Like my loader, hasn't done 3 hours a month, saved me days!
  9. I hired a tracked forst in January, came to me with 18 hours on, I doubled it to 36 in 2 day๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ thank god for Led work lights๐Ÿคฃ
  10. william127


    Yes, they offered 1, 2 or 3 days, all including the test, although they did say the 1 day was really just aimed at people who had failed the test and just needed to revisit something and redo the test.
  11. william127


    8 hours the first day, 4 hours the second day, test in the afternoon . I have no complaints about the amount or quality of the training I got for the money, my instructor was teaching me to pass the test. My point is more that if you have no experience of real world towing or loading, did your test then went out towing real loads, you might be in for a bit of a shock....
  12. william127


    2 days, including the test. ยฃ500 all in. It was a decent course with a decent instructor, just that there were lots of more real world aspects of driving/towing that didn't really come up. Probably because after talking to my instructor and doing the first hour or so he could see I was fine with towing and reversing, it was just getting back into test style driving so that's what we focused on. Oh, and there arnt exactly many big hills in Tilbury ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ
  13. william127


    Some good points there. The only trailer I've seen to tempt me away from an ifor was a nugent plant trailer that the owner assured me had been fine for 100 miles behind a disco 4 with a 5 ton digger on!! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜ I can certainly don't remember learning anything of use on my trailer test, other than a handy reminder of basic highway code stuff! Nothing about safe Hill climbs or decesnts. When I tow heavy stuff with my Puma 110, D3 or D2, I've found that I tend to go slightly quicker up the hills on the motorway than down, as theyve had the power to keep it accelerating, then going slower on the way down to stop building up too much speed. Seems like common sense to me but I often find myself getting overtaken on the downhills.....
  14. Yes, full up. I've never had to bleed it before so I'd agree but I can hope!
  15. I need some advise with my little kubota kx36 - 3. Last Friday I went to use it and the arm and track functions were virtually dead. The blade and slew are working fine but when you try and use any of the arm functions I just get groaning noises! I have changed the hydraulic oil and filters, no change--I wasn't really expecting any as the blade and slew work but seemed a sensible start. Anyone know how I bleed the hydraulics on this machine? I did put a new hose on it a few weeks ago but it's done a couple of problem free days work since and I've never had to bleed it before. Its bound to be the highly expensive pump๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ™„, but any suggestions would be welcome!
  16. Had a lad, 19ish, work for me one Saturday a few years ago. We were digging out for artificial grass, all soil being dumped at the end of the garden. He was at the job when I arrived, good start I thought๐Ÿ‘ it was only when he asked the client (fortunately a friend of mine ๐Ÿ˜‚) for a black coffee with 5 sugars in, I realised he was early because he'd not been home from Friday night and was still off his nut! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ He started barrowing, after about 15 minutes we realised he hadn't come back from his last load- he'd walked to the end of the garden and kept going, all the way home presumably ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
  17. Welding gauntlets for sure. I was talking to someone about the only monkey puzzle I've done the other done the other day and how it wasn't too bad with the welding gauntlets.
  18. The first 2 years I had my digger I only had the grading bucket, an rsl thumb and ripper tooth! Got loads of jobs done with that combination, rip up the ground a bit with the tooth, dig it out with the big bucket๐Ÿ˜‚ it worked but it's much nicer having a full set!
  19. Have you got a ripper tooth? Great match with a thumb, or those bolt on bucket teeth that rsl do a great as well, possible better than the tooth as they sink into the timber. Brilliant digger as well!
  20. Some gear there๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿ‘Œ
  21. Yes. But it wasn't. So it wouldn't. ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
  22. Having had a 390 and a 291, I wouldn't even think about it- unless a few plunge cuts reveal its only solid round the outside, in which case your current bar will do, so crack on!
  23. Was yours a 110 or a 130? 110s are just too short to make good tippers, hi caps are good pick ups though. Mine was a 130, great payload when you consider it had a winch, hand crane and van vault. With twin rear springs it would comfortably carry its legal payload and be OK with 2 ton on. I defenitly think if you don't like defenders, don't buy one, even if on paper it's exactly what you need-it'll just do your head in!
  24. Yep, exactly ๐Ÿ‘ I've also delivered the quad to jobs in a cage sided p6e with my wessex quad trailer upturned on top of the cages ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
  25. I have a 600 grizzly 4x4, I use our very old ifor p6e for moving timber behind it. Had about 3/4 of a ton of hornbeam lengths in it at a time, pulled it fine on the tracks but had to help it up the hill to them with the digger. On a 1/4 mile round trip 2 of us could load with the digger, deliver, unload by hand and back in 20 minutes. Can get 2 bulk bags of split logs on it behind the quad as well Cheapish to buy compared to a quad trailer and multipurpose.


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