Blade Bolts

[skyhuck]

Torx bolts are much less likely to strip out than Allen ones. Allen are great in nice clean conditions but once they are a bit corroded and covered in crap, they are likely to round - just got to look at the shape of both recess shapes to tell you that.

 

The most common reason to strip out both these types of bolt are when crap builds up in the head and isn't cleared out before the allen key or torx bit is inserted. Cleaning it out thoroughly and tapping the bit fullyin to place will help not stripping it.

 

I havent had a chipper apart but perhaps some threadlock (the type that allows dissassembly) on the thread and a little grease around the counter sunk head and shoulder should help future removal - just an engineers thought as it will stop the rust and the lock will hold he thread!

 

You could try stainless steel bolts??

 

NO!! these will not be of the correct strength and could lead to failure and possible damage, even danger to those operating the chipper!!!!!!!

[Gary Prentice]

NO!! these will not be of the correct strength and could lead to failure and possible damage, even danger to those operating the chipper!!!!!!!

 

I'd agree, I think stainless- size for size- are weaker.

 

We change bolts more or less everytime we change blades. Good clean out, sharp tap on the allen/torq socket to ensure its seated and to break the 'join' and no problems.

 

Torquing up the new bolts helps removal later, they don't need to be as tight as people think! It's also not worth pennypinching, not replacing worn heads as the aggro in later removal far outdoes the saved few quid.

[WeFixIt]

Like mentioned before if cleaned out properly before attempting removal and using a impact driver to break the initial hold.

 

The Torx design allows for a higher torque to be exerted than a similarly sized conventional hex socket head without damaging the head and/or the tool due to more contact between the bolt head and the tool tip.

 

Timberwolf blade bolts M10 x 120mm

 

Recommended tensile strength 10.9

 

Size T50

Point2point distance 0.346"/8.83mm

Max torque 97.4-117 lbft/132-158Nm

 

Retighten each screw to

45lbs ft / 60Nm

 

Always follow the manufacturer’s specifications for torque settings

 

DO NOT USE THREAD LOCK!

 

Clean threads with wire brush and

coat threads with copper grease..

 

We would only fit genuine blade bolts and strongly recommend anyone changing blade bolt to do the same!

 

Stainless steel has a much hard compound to match with regards to strength and many stainless steel fasteners may be the same size thread and length but strength of the threads and shank vary !

 

 

Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

Edited August 25, 2014 by WeFixIt

[Big Beech]

i hate those torx bolts on the timberwolf. changing the outer blade is never an issue as you can get a good angle and pressure on them, however the inner blade is a PITA as your struggling with the angle especially on the bolt nearest the housing. even with the torx holes picked out cleanly and copper slip used every time they are still a PAIN!!!!

[aspenarb]

I know that if they are clean , care is taken and a decent torx driver is used they come out but really Timberwolf should have redesigned this a while ago. If the blades were a few mm thicker the full depth torx bolt could have been used saving a lot of grief. Even the fitter at Green plant says they have to chop some of them out.

 

Bob

[Nick B]

As We fix it said the heads must be cleaned out properly this is the key and a bit of copper grease on the threads when putting them in I used to put new bolts every other blade change.

For what they cost it is worth it, my machine had the Allen key heads and they do round very easy.

[Mark Bolam]

Some good advice here.

I learned years ago not to try and rush getting the torx bolts out.

My dentist gave me a metal dental pick, which is great at working the crud out. Copper slip is a must, and as said, those bolts don't need to be super tight. 60Nm is less than you think.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

[Drucati]

Thanks for all the advice people, The new allen bolts are tested to a high strength so will be ok also the dimentions are exactly the same (checked with micrometer) My last 2 sets of Torx bolts came from Spectrum and they not stamped in any way so i dont know strengh of them. I have a top notch torx driver which is very hard and as of yet has not twisted, the problem is the bolts. I do clean every bit of debris out before attempting to open them and on most occasions it all goes well, but it only takes one or two to strip out and the machine is out for the day while i get nuts welded etc etc. I need this to be done in half hour so i can get back to work ive never had problems with allen bolts, again clean them out, good quality driver all the things you should do to make the blade change operation go smooth. Ill post again in a few weeks to let ya all know how it goes

 

Thanks Drew

[alexm]

I've actually used Torx bits to get rounded Allen bolts out in the past by tapping in a sacrificial bit as a last ditch attempt before phase two... the 'weld-a-nut'

 

A good quality, well fitting and unworn Torx bit should not strip. That's what they were designed for but obviously a lot also depends upon the quality and material of the bolt, the material it is going into and how heavy handed the person who put it in was or whether they've used adhesive/loctite. For example, steel into alloy can be a nightmare, or a bolt driven in with an impact wrench.

 

I agree with the posts above about swapping material from OEM in this application. Don't do it. On chippers you've got impact/brittleness, you've potentially got corrosion of dissimilar metals, you've got galling and you've got shear and in all cases the consequences of the bolt failing could be much worse than not being able to undo it come blade change time!

 

Use OEM bolts with high quality tools, or use bolts to the same material/spec

 

Also pay attention to torque values (and whether wet/dry). You might think under-torquing will make them easier to remove... but if the blade is able to slide back and pinch the bolt then you are trying to remove an oval bolt from a round hole! Or it could shear it through like a pair of secateurs! Small investment up front could save big time later!

 

Alex

[alexm]

Any suggestions on a quaility Torx driver ?

 

Bob

 

It would be easy to say stick to good brands and avoid anything Chinese, but then lots of good brands are made in China now so basically I'd advise not buying too good to be true cheap, buy from a respected vendor but above all, use them with finesse. A cheap, horrible bit made of cheese might fit right but deform off as you apply torque.... or another cheap, horrible bit made of glass will shatter as you apply torque.

 

In either case, if you feel your wrench starting to turn but you don't see the bolt starting to turn then abort, you need to change something. 'One more try' = ££. Use touch, not impact wrench

 

 

I'd agree, I think stainless- size for size- are weaker.

 

This isn't necessarily true. Ever tried drilling stainless compared to mild steel?

 

Strong/weak isn't really the right description... just right/wrong material for the application and for this sort of application you really need to go by the manufacturer if you ever wish to make a successful insurance claim in the future!