Chain Sharpening.. Acceptable discrepancy between teeth.

[Lillywhite Timber]

Whatever about discrepancies , i got a few chains ground in a dealers yesterday . Id usually never need to but various nails ,stones crows nests and barbed wire had taken its toll. He really took his time and kept them cooled and the job was excellent .

Faster than new even in dryish beech . The guy is Philip Jones in Tommy Doyles of Baltinglass and id have no problem reccomending him .

Between the chains and the 357 spud ported for me im really upping productivity .Id imagine that theres no other ported 357s in Ireland ?.

Ive used a fair few saws in my time , but nothing with the barely controlled aggression of this , id imagine its more powerful than a stock 560 ?

[spudulike]

Whatever about discrepancies , i got a few chains ground in a dealers yesterday . Id usually never need to but various nails ,stones crows nests and barbed wire had taken its toll. He really took his time and kept them cooled and the job was excellent .

Faster than new even in dryish beech . The guy is Philip Jones in Tommy Doyles of Baltinglass and id have no problem reccomending him .

Between the chains and the 357 spud ported for me im really upping productivity .Id imagine that theres no other ported 357s in Ireland ?.

Ive used a fair few saws in my time , but nothing with the barely controlled aggression of this , id imagine its more powerful than a stock 560 ?

 

Glad you are enjoying it Patrick, I dd warn you it will be a bit of an animal:thumbup:

[Logan]

Good to read different views with a cumulative of many hours experience. Thanks!

I decided on not going over the top as long as any difference was no more than 0.5mm. My aim is to get chips and not dust.. if i get dust after the time it's taken me I wont be happy. (chain came with 2nd hand saw with wrong angle and 2+mm difference so it took some work getting it right.

Chain now soaking in an oil bath after having been cleaned up... ready for use.... The bar now cleaned and dressed, i dont surpose I need to oil the groove on bar seperately do I i (new tip is already greased) .

 

Good thread mate.

If you can get all your cutters within 0.5mm and the depth gauges uniform and useful to the wood you're cutting and the saws power/bar length, and sharp, should be good to use. Also bar rails reasonably level and no burrs or wire edges.

oiling a new bar before fitting a new chain is a nice touch. But if you've had a chain out of a oil bath, it'll slide round quietly enough until the chain oil gets there. More noticable on longer bars.

For me, if I'm stump cutting or crosscutting dirty logs or whatever, 1.5mm difference probably suffices.

If I'm felling all day, or doing a lot of bar nose work, then I'd look to be within 0.5mm.

Aim high and on your off days it will still be good enough! With time and good eyesight, i think you'll not need the calipers so often. Use the force, Luke, especially when you're out in the woods and time is maybe getting on...

And maybe it's raining...

Cheers. John

[champagnecharly]

Following on from this... I was just in france at parents in law. After using his 190 for a small job, it was time to get it sharpened... unfortunately he did n't have a file.. The local Stihl & Husky dealer had some files but god damned expensive.. at €14 for a single and they didnt do the kit with the depth guage.. In fact told me it was never available for sale -just a poor quality promo- in france.

The sharpening fee was just 4.5€ so thought it best to just leave it with him and I'd get a kit for him over here. There was also a little bit of wear on the bar so we asked if he could redress...

 

I didnt go back to collect but when my Father in Law came back I took one look at the bar and was gob smacked.. running my finger along it it was like a razor.. so i thought no more and got a (rubish) file to it to take off the razor edges.. I then noted he had only done one side.... so finished off his job.. looking down the groove I noticed he hadnt even touched it and it was full of gunk...so cleaned that off too..

i took a look at the chain.. .. the teeth were completely out to the eye with -at a guess- 0.5 to 1.5mm variance between . worst still were the depth gauge with over 1- 1.5mm difference (are these not meant to be around 0.2mm). not only that but they were just filed flat/ squared with no curved shape being given to them at all.

 

After reading the good advice i received and the refference to courses, training passing and failing.. I was shocked to see the state of it.. and thought it was probably quite dangerous to use..

My question is.. should such people be trained? Should I raise the issue with Husky and Stihl? as I feel the chain has been turned into a dangerous piece of junk.. Any thoughts?

[muldonach]

Good to read different views with a cumulative of many hours experience. Thanks!

I decided on not going over the top as long as any difference was no more than 0.5mm. My aim is to get chips and not dust.. if i get dust after the time it's taken me I wont be happy. (chain came with 2nd hand saw with wrong angle and 2+mm difference so it took some work getting it right.

Chain now soaking in an oil bath after having been cleaned up... ready for use.... The bar now cleaned and dressed, i dont surpose I need to oil the groove on bar seperately do I i (new tip is already greased) .

 

Personally I would start the saw and introduce it to a piece of wood - why on earth would you soak a chain in an oil bath? No you do not need to oil the bar groove separately

 

Its all a bit like moisture content - yes it matters but you can worry too much

 

Cheers

mac

[gnfencer]

Just had a thought would a Makita be a more cost effective choice I see the list price for the stihl 362, for me is very high for the amount of work I will have for it im looking to spend no more than £400,

I've heard the makitas are good saws

[Rob D]

Personally I would start the saw and introduce it to a piece of wood - why on earth would you soak a chain in an oil bath? No you do not need to oil the bar groove separately

 

Its all a bit like moisture content - yes it matters but you can worry too much

 

Cheers

mac

 

 

 

It's not a bad thing to do and ok prob not that necessary on a used bar and chain but a very good idea with a new bar and chain as there is a lot of friction there to start with.