Help!!!

[Dan Earp]

Great bit of kit

 

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/forestry-equipment/axes-mauls-hatchets/splitting-axes-mauls/helko-vario-2000-splitting-axe-hickory-shaft-75cm-1-6kg/

[daltontrees]

Take it I'm the only one who uses a wee wood grenade and a club hammer !! eye protection as well !!! en166 and all that .

 

I have a maul and an axe but today I was using the grenade and a 2.5kg hammer to open up some monster twisted rounds of willow, no maul in the world would have got through them. Sometimes if an axe or maul goes across the rays it sticks, and the point of a grenade is the only thing that can pick out the weakness.

 

A club hammer? Jeez, I wouldn't have any knuckles left!

[Mark Bolam]

Gransfors are my favourite, although the maul is the only one with the poll of the head tempered for striking wedges.

 

The large splitting axe is the fastest tool for splitting timber I have ever used, but has its limits with gnarlier stuff.

[coleman]

Great bit of kit

 

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/forestry-equipment/axes-mauls-hatchets/splitting-axes-mauls/helko-vario-2000-splitting-axe-hickory-shaft-75cm-1-6kg/

 

Seconded!

[rovers90]

There are a lot of people who like the Fiskars range and they are on this site at good prices:

 

Product Search - My Tool Shed

 

Personally I have the Gransfors large splitting maul and love it, the quality is superb.

[agg221]

Why not get a blacksmith to stamp a name or personal message into the the maul or axe's head.

 

It's a nice idea, but it's not as simple as it sounds. The lettering is stamped in when the metal is hot. Afterwards it is heat-treated, which involves heating it right up, quenching it (which makes it hard but brittle) and then heating it gently to a set temperature, which is 'tempering' (which makes it a little less hard but a lot less brittle).

 

If you heated the head to re-stamp it, firstly you would have to take the handle out, secondly you would have to repeat the heat-treatment, then re-handle etc. This all makes it rather expensive and tricky. As an aside, the usual stamp letters are fairly big, and you (well I) can only get a few in in a heat, so you might get initials but not much more.

 

Taking the original idea though, if you wanted to put something on it I would have it engraved. If you google 'engraving' and your location you will turn up dozens of people who can help.

 

Alec

[White Noise]

It's a nice idea, but it's not as simple as it sounds. The lettering is stamped in when the metal is hot. Afterwards it is heat-treated, which involves heating it right up, quenching it (which makes it hard but brittle) and then heating it gently to a set temperature, which is 'tempering' (which makes it a little less hard but a lot less brittle).

 

If you heated the head to re-stamp it, firstly you would have to take the handle out, secondly you would have to repeat the heat-treatment, then re-handle etc. This all makes it rather expensive and tricky. As an aside, the usual stamp letters are fairly big, and you (well I) can only get a few in in a heat, so you might get initials but not much more.

 

Taking the original idea though, if you wanted to put something on it I would have it engraved. If you google 'engraving' and your location you will turn up dozens of people who can help.

 

Alec

 

Fair point matey Although I have what I presume are hardened individual letters . They punch quite easlily into a B&Q axe head lol

[agg221]

Fair point matey Although I have what I presume are hardened individual letters . They punch quite easlily into a B&Q axe head lol

 

Yes, but I think she's planning on buying him something nice

 

Alec

[Female Arb]

Thanks for all your help.... Think I'll go for a Gransfors. Also love the idea of getting in engraved so will look into that

[wisewood]

Following on from Alec's thoughts on stamping/ engraving what about putting the script on the handle instead?

Edited October 10, 2013 by wisewood
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