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Karabiners failing loler inspection.


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Someone who I work with has had five karabiners failed by our loler inspector. The krabs are all new DMM ones of the same type that have never been used. They were failed because you can just, and some only just, get the gate to stick open if you twist it while closing it slowly. As they hadn't been used they were sent back to DMM who returned them and said they were fine, nothing wrong with them but our inspector still won't pass them. Has anyone else had this problem?

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hi i have had dmm oval krabs failed for same reason, i tend not to buy dmm now. Think is just loller test being too strict thats is problem, i am still climbing on failed krabs and gate has never not closed.You can only stick gate open if you force the twist lock closed while slowly closing krab, whick would never happen while climbing.

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Interesting indeed! Most krabs will allow for some sideways movement while open and I've, (while rock climbing) had on occasion a krab just touch off centre as it closed. But they've always flipped back into correct alignment and closed. When this has happen, I've needed to actually look at the gate, to ensure the krab has located where I wanted it, was hanging in the desired orientation and that the gate locked the krab.


This has happened mainly with non pressed krabs. The ones that are basically bent bar and not bent then pressed to increase strength & reduce weight. It has occurred with snap-gates, screw-gates and wired quick draws but more than others, have been HMS krabs where the locking screw has caught the hook and been pushed/pulled to one side. The mis-alignment has not been by a great deal and has usually sorted itself out. (on the very few times when manual correction has been needed. A closer than average after climb inspection has taken place.) However, in all the years of roped climbing, I've only retired one HMS and a couple of snap-gates due to mis-alignment malfunction.


Most temporary problem krabs, just needed a clean and light lube. During some inspections, the krab was found to have collected a bit of grit or grain of sand. (No I don't rest my gear in sand but when one is climbing sea cliffs, stuff tends to gets blown around.)


A particular manufacturer is does not seem to be the only one. Individual krabs that have done this, haven't always done it, plus they've ranged through DMM, Wild Country and others.

Edited by TGB
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Hi all,


My guess would be they were LOLER'd because, even though they were new and unused, they were either in someone's kit bag OR presented to the inspector as part of the businesses available equipment.


Occasionally, I've come across a possible mis-interpretation of the ACOP (LOLER Approved Code of Practice) which requires certain pieces of equipment to be inspected on installation, i.e. tower cranes (to ensure they are safe to use and 'fit for purpose',) meaning generally 'prior to use.'


All that said, I would have concerns if a new / unused item of equipment was supplied defective.





PS Timescales for inspection, generally, are 6 months if 'lifting a person' (inc. climbing gear / MEWPs etc.) and 12 months if 'lifting a load' (i.e. rigging kit and Hi-abs / cranes etc.) see attached.


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I thought it was a year?


To my understanding its 6 months for climbing kit and 12 for lowering kit.


And yes I'd ask why the need for a loler examination if they are brand new? Of course we should all check on a personal level for the correct operation of new biners and all kit, but I can't see why it needs a 6 monthly independent exam from new?

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