Bow saws, is there a knack or are some saws just better than others

[mr_magicfingers]

Recently bought a farm with a 7 acre woodland that needs bringing back into coppice, it's mainly hazel coppice under oak and ash standards.

 

I've my first chainsaw and gathering the other necessary tools such as a couple of bill hooks (getting a fiskars for now and looking for an older one too), already have a bahco laplander and a bow saw. I was given the bow saw that I've used a few times but it always seems to cut on a curve rather than straight. I've been a hobby woodworker for years so I think I can usually cut a straight line with a handsaw but nothing I do will prevent this bowsaw from curving the cut.

 

There's no way to tension the blade, it has a fold up handle to lock the blade in place. Is this curving cut usual or should I look at getting a better bowsaw and, if that's the case, what's recommended?

 

Thanks.

Edited June 25, 2013 by mr_magicfingers

[Stubby]

One side is damaged ?

[AHPP]

Silky Fox pruning saw.

[Bren.]

Not enough tension on the blade.

Get a Silky, or better still, a chainsaw.

[agrimog]

its a skill that takes an age to learn, remember the saw only really cuts on the pull stroke, trying to make it cut on the "push" is why your getting a curved cut, it takes a while to get this into your mindset 'cos its the opposite of a normal saw

[Dan Earp]

If u need a hand saw, spend a little and get a silky bud

[Tagger]

Bow saws do tend to produce bent cuts, particularly with the harder woods. Tensioning the blade better may help, but not eliminate it.

 

You can tension any decent bow saw. If you look at the blade, it will have two holes at each end. At each end of the bow saw, there will be a hook/bolt/rivet/knob that hooks through one hole to hold the blade in place. If the blade is too loose, open it, then move to one or both of the inner holes on the blade. When you close the handle up again, the blade will be tighter.

 

And if the blade is blunt, get a new one. One of my pet hates is trying to chop down trees with a blunt bow saw. A blunt blade will still have sharp points, but the sides of the blade will be worn to a mirror finish. A new blade will have a yellowish protective lacquer on the surfaces.

[silky fox]

BIN THE BOW.....and get a BIG Silky!

[mr_magicfingers]

OK, just been looking at silky saws, those look very nice, a grown up version of my laplander that's very handy. So, given that I've a chainsaw, billhook and a laplander, which model would be the most useful for a non-professional woodsman working on coppice. 300mm? and which tooth size.

 

Cheers.

[difflock]

Before graduating to a chainsaw 40 year ago.

I cut an absolute world of timber with a bow saw.

Incl some limited felling:lol:

Started with the ould rickle of a rusty saw.

graduated via a new blade ( an boy! that was a relevation)

Finally picked a well engineered frame for the LONGER bowsaw blade.

Absolute bliss.

Well except for attempting to amputate my left index finger, but at least it was a very clean cut that healed up nicely (still got the scar 40 years later)

And, sorry, but I ALWAYS cut on the push.(except for the short starting snick)

But a long relaxed push, not forcing the saw into the wood.

From recall I think I could cut pretty straight, on green sappy wood leastwise.

I also think that a cutting edge BACHO new bowsaw blade would give a silky a reasonable run for its money

cheers

marcus

OOPS,

Probably for the upside ground level cutting involved in coppicing a Silky type saw WOULD be better as no cumbersome frame to get in the way/catch on the ground.

But for standing at a sawhorse cuttin sticks a bowsaw every time.

Edited June 26, 2013 by difflock