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Anyone make their own chain?


GordonRochdale
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Yep, the last chain on my 576 was the same. Made absolutely zero difference. On the sharpening front, maybe worth mentioning I use one of those "liquid paper" pens - a couple of dabs on the first cutter I sharpen and I it stands out a mile when it comes back round.

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I think it is a physical impossibility to get an even cutter one side then tother on a lot of chains i.e. on a 114 drive link chain there will be 57 cutters so will always be x2 lefts or x2 rights.

 

 

I did make a vid on chain making if it's any use

 

 

 

:001_smile:

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if you are only making chains with an even number of drive links you can eliminate the gap from the missing cutter by sacrificing 1 drive link from the end of the roll then the next chain made will have a full set of left and right cutters, if you are making chains of varying lengths or all odd drive link count chains it don't matter at 12000 rpm 3/8 chain is doing 87.5 feet per second or 26.67 meters per second

 

 

a few tips for making chains

make sure preset and loose tie strap are the right way up they have a notch that goes towards the bar rails, it enables the spur sprocket teeth to fully engage the drive link.

 

ensure that you havent got a knot or double loop in the chain before joining (we have all done it - specialy embarasing if customer is stood waiting and you have to break and remake chain again ).

if using oregon chain be aware of the 'lubri-link' tie straps they have a small indentation that is designed to retain oil, if you put it on 'inside out' it will create a tight chain.

when 'spinning the rivets' a little bit of lubrication on both sides of the spinning anvil and take-up handle will reduce friction

when 'spinning the rivets' dont go all 'gung-ho' and try to complete the joint in one go (its easier to put the chain back in the tool to tighten a slack joint than loosen one that is tight )

there are two different sizes of anvil and take-up inserts make sure you have the right one in the tool if you are making chains of diferent pitches

be careful when punching the rivets out when breaking the chain the drive links can bend if not sat on the punch anvil correctly

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if you are only making chains with an even number of drive links you can eliminate the gap from the missing cutter by sacrificing 1 drive link from the end of the roll then the next chain made will have a full set of left and right cutters, if you are making chains of varying lengths or all odd drive link count chains it don't matter at 12000 rpm 3/8 chain is doing 87.5 feet per second or 26.67 meters per second

 

 

a few tips for making chains

make sure preset and loose tie strap are the right way up they have a notch that goes towards the bar rails, it enables the spur sprocket teeth to fully engage the drive link.

 

ensure that you havent got a knot or double loop in the chain before joining (we have all done it - specialy embarasing if customer is stood waiting and you have to break and remake chain again ).

if using oregon chain be aware of the 'lubri-link' tie straps they have a small indentation that is designed to retain oil, if you put it on 'inside out' it will create a tight chain.

when 'spinning the rivets' a little bit of lubrication on both sides of the spinning anvil and take-up handle will reduce friction

when 'spinning the rivets' dont go all 'gung-ho' and try to complete the joint in one go (its easier to put the chain back in the tool to tighten a slack joint than loosen one that is tight )

there are two different sizes of anvil and take-up inserts make sure you have the right one in the tool if you are making chains of diferent pitches

be careful when punching the rivets out when breaking the chain the drive links can bend if not sat on the punch anvil correctly

 

Speak for yourself

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