Splitting blade edge

[difflock]

Neat idea.

BUT!

Note reference to HardOx edge.

the comment about "splitting" the dull edge with what I know as a "plamsa" cutting disc is spot on.

I have used this techique to sharpen dull cold chisels and such.

much quicker and less heat inducing than grinding away.

I keep a wee 4.5" grinder with a plamsa disc fitted for any such odds and ends.

Even better as I guess the disc is only 1.0mm thick.

Beauty is one can VERY accurately use single handed.

Basically a hand held electric hacksaw.

Super for splitting nuts off bolts too.

Without damaging the metal behind.

[shillo]

what about just welding on an old wood chipper blade

[treequip]

what about just welding on an old wood chipper blade

 

Not really suitable, it would be too brittle for that application and welding a high carbon steel to a mild steel base will give problems of its own.

 

Boron steels like hardox are designed for jobs like this.

[Breezeblock]

run a few welds of hard facing rods down the edge of the blade and dress it back to a sharp edge

[skyhuck]

Aren't splitting blades supposed to have a dull edge?

 

No, you still want a razor sharp edge, IMO.

[openspaceman]

Aren't splitting blades supposed to have a dull edge?

 

I think a dull axe is better as it crushes a few fibres, a sharp axe splits them like a nail, the fibres then grip the axe and make it stick. A splitter needs to be sharp to sever any cross grain.

 

We used the replaceable wear edge from a JCB bucket, about 200 quid for 8ft length.

[Dean Lofthouse]

I think the full edge on a splitter is so that the knife follows the grain if its at a slight angle rather than cutting straight through. ?

 

New splitters come with a deliberately dulled blade, if its a four way head the main blade is dulled and the two side blades are sharp. I think it's because following the grain required much less effort than cutting through it

 

The type of cutter the op wants isn't really a splitter, it's for chewing out stumps so really wants to be sharp and case hardened

[drythropple]

I use a 25mm strip of an old silage chopper blade welded on with dissimilar rods and it works well, never needs sharpened!

[renewablejohn]

 

The type of cutter the op wants isn't really a splitter, it's for chewing out stumps so really wants to be sharp and case hardened

 

Sorry Dean the first video was a bit of a red herring as the stump excavator video was the first one I could find that looked anything similar to the attachment that has been fabricated for me. The second video is what I am trying to do. I get a lot of big butts which I haul home in 4 - 6 mtr lengths. I then slice into 1.5 mtr lengths (size of my metal stacking racks which I use with fork lift as log deck). The excavator splitter is to break these 1.5 mtr lengths into manageable size for my palax processor (12 inch maximum)

 

That said if it will chew out stumps as well that will be an added bonus.

[difflock]

For the intended useage, would a short, say 100mm/150mm long section welded to the bottom end of the vertical splitter blade so as to form a "T" section, perhaps be an advantage.

Even if scraping across concrete it should stay sharp, plus allow one to lift the log clear of the ground without it escaping downward.

Plus better for scobing out stumps by cutting across the grain.

cheers

Marcus