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the 'todays job' thread


WoodED

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When i was taught you took off anything that wasn't helpful. You would always leave stuff on the back you you have wood to play with. The ones on the side sometime left on sometime taken off no hard or fast rule. I remember struggling sometimes because you'd do pines that were cylinders and easy to make all the cuts line up. Then a birch with butresses all over the shop its very different and one of the situations where more butresses are better than taking them off.

 

On my refresher course with a guy who does a lot of 30/31 courses. He said you must always put the face cut in first. Then you have established direction and have removed a 1/5 of the tree to check the condition of the timber. Thus you then have information available to you on what butress material you can remove. If its rotten you leave them if not take them off.

 

(I started this an hour ago and went to phyiso and have lost my train of thought....)

 

Problem is arb and forestry and two different things with a chainsaw overlap. CS31 is an attempt at forestry training. Where you may only have one saw with you and it has to do everything so taking the butresses off a plantation grown Larch isn't a massive thing. However a tree in someones garden when its a bit iffy and there is a 660 with a 3' bar on in the truck i think its best to leave them on.

 

The other thing is about butresses from a training point of view that its a hell of a lot easier to fell a round tree than an odd shaped one. Some experience down the line it isn't but from picking up a saw on monday to felling a 15" birch with buttresses all over the shop is a big step. Hence why i guess most courses are in conifers. I bet everyone newbie even in a low stump forestry environment would fell where its round and then take the stump.

 

Buttress fiber is also all over the shop as it's reactive and tears like anything even if you do any variation of sapwood/ears/feather cuts. I've never seen all of these pulls it all over the place results old school cutters talk about but i've torn a fair few butts due to leaving buttresses on.

 

From my felling i'm 60/40 in the keep them on camp. If i'm doing high value i'll take them off but in that case the timber is normally fine. If the saw goes across then why take them off. People with 18" bars round up 13-15" trees really annoys me. It goes across just fell it. I prefer to get the tree on the ground then dress the butt when it's off the deck, saw stays sharp longer.

 

Some thoughts on buttresses that was interrupted by dinner and physio.. the point i was once trying to make escaped me.....

 

Very sound, sensible, experienced and reasonable post.

 

What are you playing at? You'll give Arbtalk a bad name!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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Today's job was a short but stout dead Beech tree to remove. The tree had plenty of fruiting bodies around the base and had a lot of Ivy Growth in it.

 

Managed to get done in 4 hours with the assistance of a Palfinger hiab. I did a twinned stemmed lawsons Cyprus aswell whilst we had the machine on site.

image.jpg.29cecfff8de49548b85ed3281a2c9233.jpg

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Today's job was a short but stout dead Beech tree to remove. The tree had plenty of fruiting bodies around the base and had a lot of Ivy Growth in it.

 

Managed to get done in 4 hours with the assistance of a Palfinger hiab. I did a twinned stemmed lawsons Cyprus aswell whilst we had the machine on site.

 

Just saw the video, looks like a fairly big last pick. Do you know what weight it was?

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Just saw the video, looks like a fairly big last pick. Do you know what weight it was?

 

Not a clue mate. The operator said he could do about 7 ton up close and 1.5 at full tit.

 

I reckon maybe 2.5 - 3 ton. The tree was stone dead so obviously lighter.

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