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small landy problem!!


Matthew Storrs
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ah right, thats interesting, did it struggle tho when you tried to restart it cos of the air in the system? I think I obviously need to do some inspecting in the morning. sounds the most likely cause tho. Its totally unpredictable too it could go miles without any problems then happen twice within a few miles.

Cheers for all the advice:thumbup1:

 

HI DRT on our 200tdi on the fuel pipe on the tank it was taking in air and on the filter in the engine bay the nut what holds the filter pipe to the filter had muck in it and the my mate TD5 it cost him £500/600 then it was a copper seal on the filter on sunday i will see my land rover mate he no,s i will let you no TOMMER on here no,s a good 4X4 garage your way ask him thanks jon :thumbup:

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Do NOT do this.....

 

The feed is not 12 volt it is 2 maybe 3 volts. Put 12 volts across it and you will fry the solenoid. Then you will be paying for another one, use a voltage tester on it first to make sure there is power going to it.

 

Cheers for your advice, I think I got my sunday morning activities lined up anyhow! at least I know where to start from. Do you reckon its best to hand prime it and look for air bubbles first? if so does that mean a new fuel pipe? or loose joint somwhere?

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Cheers for your advice, I think I got my sunday morning activities lined up anyhow! at least I know where to start from. Do you reckon its best to hand prime it and look for air bubbles first? if so does that mean a new fuel pipe? or loose joint somwhere?

 

Spot on. Hand prime. If air coming through then yes pipe broken or connection loose. If no air move on to the pump and open the bleed screw on and look for fuel, if air on this part then look on pipes from hand primer to pump.

 

If nothing that side crack off the injector pipes a bit and turn over with key, if fuel here all is fine, but remember that if it stop solenoid it would be intermittent so you would have to wait until it does it then check the injector pipes when it stops to see if fuel coming through if no fuel it's the solenoid if fuel could have missed something either on the pump or the pipes.

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Do NOT do this.....

 

The feed is not 12 volt it is 2 maybe 3 volts. Put 12 volts across it and you will fry the solenoid. Then you will be paying for another one, use a voltage tester on it first to make sure there is power going to it.

 

So Bosch et all make a pump to fit to a 12 volt motor with a "maybe" 3 volt solenoid, which would then need a transformer to run it?????

 

 

I have tested dozens of fuel solenoids at 12 volts and have yet to kill one.

 

Replace the solenoid but have a jiggle with the wiring loom first to see if you can replicate the fault

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So Bosch et all make a pump to fit to a 12 volt motor with a "maybe" 3 volt solenoid, which would then need a transformer to run it?????

 

 

I have tested dozens of fuel solenoids at 12 volts and have yet to kill one.

 

Replace the solenoid but have a jiggle with the wiring loom first to see if you can replicate the fault

 

The voltage is a range of 2 to 3 volts depending on how the resistor works. Seeing as if it was a straight 12 volts the engine would not start if the battery has less than 12 volts or if the alternator was to defect while driving that battery would soon drain of 12 volts killing the engine as it would not have enough power to keep gate open and allow fuel through. Hence why it is a range voltage it would not go above 3.

 

To "jiggle" the wiring loom would be inefficient as the gate or plung valve would still not open if it is worn and sticking.

 

I think to use terminology as jiggle to someone when you are trying to give them sound advise on a technical matter is un professional and if I was to give a customer to whome vehicle I am fixing with advice of ' yeah try jiggling it mate see if that helps' they would soon leave my workshop and not return.

 

Just the way i see it.

 

Again as I have said if the solenoid was at fault you would get an intermittent non start and after a few tries it will fire up, this would not happen on travel as once the valve is open it stays open until power is switched off. If it was a loose connection on the wiring then no amount of "jiggling" the wires will recreate it so it could be a waste of a frustrating hour.

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It's a trm to be understood by a layman and manipulating the loom ( do you like that term any better) could expose a broken wire.

 

The minimum required to operate the solenoid may well be as low as single figures but if your battery is only making 3 volts the car isn't going to start anyway

 

Incidentally I have bypassed a broken solenoid wire in a car of my own with a 12 volt switched live and that lasted over a year before i sold the car, and it is still running now

 

If you call jiggle unprofessional how's your wd and tape doing????

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Didn't say the battery was 3 volts said the resistor puts out 3 volts. The battery can be what it wants to be.

 

Some are 12 volts but not on a bigger one, sounds like you have been lucky so far with putting 12 volts onto soleniods. And you have yet to encounter the low ones. I have never seen a 12 volt in any 4x4 ii have worked on or any heavy diesel truck, lorry, or large car.

 

Think I have seen quadruple engines over my time and also spent 5 years with college and one at a uni studying them, also keep well up to date with new specs that are being developed at the moment. Refresher courses are always taken on mechanical engineering.

 

Somehow I seem to know what I'm talking about.

 

Dartmoor this is an open forum and you can take whatever advise you deem fit. I am not in the mood to argue with anyone over an engine I will never see or fix. It is in your hands what you do to it. All I can point out is when someone gives wrong advise in checking a fault and reply with the correct way to find a fault without destroying something that could cost money to replace without the need to do so in the first place.

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I had a similar problem once with my 200tdi. I was driving along and it just died as if it had run out of fuel, it turned over but nothing. Turned out the wire going to the fuel injection pump had perished so was a quick fix with a new connector and started up straight away. If it wasn't this i read in a few places that it could have been the fuel solenoid like others have said here.

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I don't see how you could have an intermittent compression fault, once its gone its gone. dirt or air in the fuel would probably cause some misfiring / spluttering so I would go for a wiring fault on the stop solenoid....

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