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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Just fit a new sealing valve - it looks like a red rubber mushroom! remove the fibre breather abd pull it up from inside to out with some tweezers or pliers:thumbup:

 

On the blue smoke - possibly too much oil in the fuel, possibly running too rich on the H or L screw depending at what revs it is happening.

 

Saws newish to me. Ebay special. My normal mix that i was using this morn. Will have a look at it tomorrow. Many thanks :thumbup:

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Always fancied a 262xp to play with and found one at a boot sale last Monday.

It had no pull cord, looked grotty but had brand new chain and chap selling said it was not seized so gave him the money.

I put a new cord in and a drop test showed poor compression so tested it with gauge. It showed 100psi but I fueled it to try and she ran and cut pretty quite well for the condition.oh! it also has/had heated handles, wires are cut off, do all these 262xp's have them?

Ive not taken the pot off yet and don't want to spend much repairing it other than my time so if its beyond a clean up plus a piston and a few other bits it will be under the bench with all my other projects:001_smile:

If anyone breaking one of these or has any spares that may be of use please let me know?

slim

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-friends Husky 142 with an oiling problem.

 

Stripped the oil pump and cleaned it, (surprised how simple the pump is - bar with a flat machined on one end). checked that the tank vent wasn't blocked.

 

But when I ran the saw it still wasn't oiling properly, on closer inspection oil was coming out of the tank vent.

 

Has any one else seen this? Is something missing, like a non return valve, one's not shown on the spares diagram?

 

There is a rubber pipe missing from the pump up to the oiler slot in the cover so it feeds to the hole in the bar unless you have just shown a picture of it before you put it back in. Mine had got dislodged and was letting oil run out down the back of the cover instead of feeding it to the bar.

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Looks like its got problems, i wouldnt run it anymore until the cause of the damage to the piston is found.

Just done a vac and pressure test to see if its worth carrying on and both are good so have taken the cyl off and not so good.

It looks as though a new piston was fitted into a cyl that had been badly scored before as the circlips and wrist pin are in place.

Any idea if this is an original cyl? has A50 stamped on top of head

slim

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Just done a vac and pressure test to see if its worth carrying on and both are good so have taken the cyl off and not so good.

It looks as though a new piston was fitted into a cyl that had been badly scored before as the circlips and wrist pin are in place.

Any idea if this is an original cyl? has A50 stamped on top of head

slim

 

A circlip has come out at some stage and scored the transfer side, doesn't look too hot to me:thumbdown:

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A circlip has come out at some stage and scored the transfer side, doesn't look too hot to me:thumbdown:

No it doesn't to me either! Judging by the crud around the engine its been running for a long time since the piston was replaced in the scored cyl , its going to be a more expensive job than I first hoped.

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No it doesn't to me either! Judging by the crud around the engine its been running for a long time since the piston was replaced in the scored cyl , its going to be a more expensive job than I first hoped.

 

Looked at the pics again, the circlip damage looks to appear on both sides which is weird to say the least.

 

The damage is below the exhaust port roof so if you can smooth this, sort any aluminium transfer and slightly hone the bore, with a new piston, you may strike lucky.

 

The damage on the transfers needs to be smooth to stop damage to the ring and the bore needs to be clean but as long as it makes compression, the lower damage will have little effect. You will need a new piston!

 

Other than that - fit a new P&C or good second hand one!

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