windy81

quick question to all you fencers How do you secure your end posts usually ? Do you use postcrete or wedge them in good with stones ?

What would level 6 in arboriculture give you other than knowledge, that can set you apart from other tree surgeons and arborists ?

thats awesome

palmers original waxy cream

Stihl 017,018,MS 170,MS180 chainsaw carburettor carb Walbro type,new | eBay this

i bought one for the 017 (almost the same as ms180) on ebay

ask this guy lol

makita/dolmar i can't fault. the makita we have was bought 14 years ago, been run on regular fuel, has been stood for months at a time and has probably cut 1000's of tons of logs for us over the years. So far 2 bars and i cannot count how many chains we've used and a re-tune now and then and absolutely nothing has ever gone wrong or broken with it. Completely original from new. Amazing really.

looks to me that he tied the top part of the tree to the lower part ? hard to see 100%... as the tree started falling it leveraged the tree forward (cos the rope was taught not loose to allow the tree to fall in a controlled manner) as you see then the rope snapped making the tree ping back like spring steel i guess its the lowering rig(whatever you call it) that jammed ? watch the vid in slow mo and you see what i mean

i always assume this ^^ to be the case just cos its too expensive and dangerous to assume otherwise

aii..... its something my dad and grandad have had and i get it after a long physical stint carrying things like posts and stuff usually numbness in the fingers are the symptoms the operation to fix it is straightforward and simple as has my dad underwent with great success, however they'll try to inject it first with steroids see if that works which never does in the long term

manufacture one out of rubber plastic ?

aren't ther the 2 pacmans internal and ewxternbal shapes going from the diagram ?

Jays Fluid.......mixed a little stronger than recommended on the tin....... 2 days after application and the moss and algae is gone. Brilliant stuff.

yes but.... IMO Aspen is ££££ Id much rather use a 2 stroke oil with stabiliser... Am i completely deluded ?

the camshaft is one piece and as far as i know the bearings are not interchangeable because of this. good to know that it does happen cos now i can do something about it

ye looks like there is a lot of grit there

Fault finding an almost new MS180 today that wont start. Quick compression check gets 90psi. However the piston looks good, virtually new from intake and exhaust ports. Tear it apart to find the big end bearing has disintegrated caused presumably by the engine pan decomposition from sitting for quite some time. I presume that the alcohol in the fuel ate away at the engine pan and the resulting debris which felt very gritty almost like sand basically, acted like grinding paste and broke away the big end bearing and from there the rollers got trapped in the transfers and all hell let loose. Apart from that the saw has only been used 3 times. First time i saw fuel damage like this and i'm really considering 2 -stroke oil that has fuel stabiliser in it such as the Amsoil Saber Professional.

Cylinder compression

if the silver is in perfect condition and only the plastic surface is scratched use micromesh, using gradually finer grades as you go along to polish the plastic. Polish using peek and a soft cloth. Works on phone screens too

retrofitting carbs H L and S will be on the cards i think. Myself i like the old fashioned screwdriver approach

Got a Husqvarna 154SE as payment for fixing a Husqvarna 254xp for a mate. The 254 needed only a clean inside and out, new cranks seals and a tune up and she ran perfect. The existing non original seals in it disintegrated like eggshell on removal. Strange i thought.... never seen that before. Anyway the 154 was an ex forestry 1983 i believe and looked like a bag of poo... She'd had a hard life and then neglected in a shed for years after not working properly until she came my way No coil, No choke lever, no flywheel faring(hence the stop switch wire was so mangled having rubbed on it), 90psi compression, filthy dirty carb, leaky seals and a gummed up exhaust port and cranks case, suggesting use of very poor quality 2-stroke oil. The only saving grace was the steel chrome cylinder, which was faultless so i figured it would be a good investment to re-condition her. New piston, piston ring, bearings throughout, cranks seals, carb kit and a thorough clean inside and out and a removal of the base gasket for more compression and a complete reseal with Dirko HT. Then i manufactured a new choke lever and crossrail to tie the new coil and stop wires to prevent the flywheel munching them. @ 180psi she started 3rd pull and now after a tune up runs like a dream! Result ! Looking at it however with all her scratches and broken off bits off casing, you'd be forgiven for thinking the 154 is a scraper, but she runs really good now and flies through wood. Really pleased. humming and arrring over a spud port..........hmmm

This could be it...... faulty airflow metter can lean out the fuel mix at full revs

hey guys, my first post here In your collective experience what bearing puller would you recomend for most if not all bearing / worm gear / seal removal ? Reason i ask is because i had a bitch of a time removing the worm gear of an old Husky 154, made worse that its made of soft bronze/brass. even after significant heat it would not budge so had to cut it off. I'll need to remove another worm gear off a Husky 254 to replace the seals and since this chainsaw ain't mine i really dont want to end up cutting it off again I had a look at these for example and thought they would be too big to fit in the internal diameter of most crank bearings and also would probably slip off the worm gear Workshop Items/Universal Mower Spares - 3 Piece Bearing Puller Set what do you think ? thanks Dylan