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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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On 24/01/2024 at 13:45, pleasant said:

Right. I sent the photos to customer last night explaining we know what is wrong, but cannot work out why. I asked if he has had some work done on it recently elsewhere?

 

Customer rings me this morning to inform me he took it somewhere else last year and had a new drum fitted by them and has had issues with it since then!

 

Would seem the previous repairer may well have fitted an incorrect drum.

 

I am now going to order a correct genuine drum and compare.

 

Keep you posted. 

 

 

 

 

Right all.....an update (as we all like an update on a problem- well, I do!)

 

The OE Echo drum and worm drive for the pump duly arrived and was fitted and is a tight fit into the drive lugs of the worm drive against the body....no air gap or end float as there was before, so the previous place had fitted an incorrect drum...not only that, but we had also noticed the old drum was also like a prick in a bucket on the crank. The new drum was initially 'dry fitted' as we couldn't get the old needle bearing to fit the OE drum as the external diameter was larger than the hole in the drum for it to fit. We ordered a new bearing as well, replaced that, and now fits perfect with no play at all. So wrong drum and wrong bearing......managed to salvaged the burred over drive links on the chain for the customer, and just got away without replacing the damaged oil pump...despite the groove worn in it. If the customer had carried on using it for any longer then he would have been looking at a new pump, and quite possibly serious damage to his crankshaft what with the floppy drum flaying about.

 

Cost him just over £100 in the end for the repair, but cheaper than a new saw.

Edited by pleasant
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15 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

This saw wasn’t running quite right hence the pressure test. Annoyingly I suspect a crank seal is leaking. I’ll take the clutch off tomorrow to see a bit more clearly.

IMG_5897.mov 14.82 MB · 5 downloads  

 

 

 

Right so it is leaking out of the clutch side crank seal.  This is a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS.  Other than this, the saw runs well, has compression and piston looks good, so I would like to try and save it.  I have not replaced seals before so any advice gladly received.  Is it possible to replace these seals without cracking the case?  I don't like the look of the ridge (in the photo below) that you need to get the seal over. Ideally I'd like to replace both seals and buy a flywheel puller for the other side.  Thanks

 

saw.jpg

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Flywheel puller...Oh my.......just loosen the retaining nut, screw it on so it is around 4/5ths on the end of the crank, lift the saw by gripping the flywheel and whack the nut with a copper mallet hard. The flywheel will come off in 1-3 whacks, you just need strong fingers. 

The lip on the crank...there is a way but if I told you, the hit squad would be round in seconds:scared1:

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On 03/02/2024 at 18:39, pleasant said:

Right all.....an update (as we all like an update on a problem- well, I do!)

 

The OE Echo drum and worm drive for the pump duly arrived and was fitted and is a tight fit into the drive lugs of the worm drive against the body....no air gap or end float as there was before, so the previous place had fitted an incorrect drum...not only that, but we had also noticed the old drum was also like a prick in a bucket on the crank. The new drum was initially 'dry fitted' as we couldn't get the old needle bearing to fit the OE drum as the external diameter was larger than the hole in the drum for it to fit. We ordered a new bearing as well, replaced that, and now fits perfect with no play at all. So wrong drum and wrong bearing......managed to salvaged the burred over drive links on the chain for the customer, and just got away without replacing the damaged oil pump...despite the groove worn in it. If the customer had carried on using it for any longer then he would have been looking at a new pump, and quite possibly serious damage to his crankshaft what with the floppy drum flaying about.

 

Cost him just over £100 in the end for the repair, but cheaper than a new saw.

Glad you got it sorted 👍 

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13 hours ago, spudulike said:

Flywheel puller...Oh my.......just loosen the retaining nut, screw it on so it is around 4/5ths on the end of the crank, lift the saw by gripping the flywheel and whack the nut with a copper mallet hard. The flywheel will come off in 1-3 whacks, you just need strong fingers. 

The lip on the crank...there is a way but if I told you, the hit squad would be round in seconds:scared1:

 

Too late, I've ordered a puller, for £5! This gorilla whacking approach has yet to work for me. I had to borrow a puller last time. I probably have weak office fingers. Yes I have a few ideas to approach the lip (good idea about lube) I'll see what the lip looks like when the seal is off.  No rush here. 

 

I am militant about pressure/vac testing which should help confirm if the seal is good.

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